fergie Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 My ty clutch is at the end of adjustment at the lever. I decided to try to adjust the screw behind the engine cover. took off the skid plate, removed engine cover. screwed adjuster at lever all the way in. loosened lock nut on adj. screw. I was not sure which way to turn it. I screwed it in and out and noticed the actuating arm on the bottom of the engine moving up and down. I kind of expected it to move front to back. It did not seem to have any effect on my clutch adjustment. The cluth still does nothing. Do I need to replace the plates? also I now cannot seem to screw the adj. screw on the engine all the way in . the head was kinda stripped to start with and the screw driver does not seem to have enough bite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 The lever moving up & down is how the adjustment works, the face that the pushrod contacts is tapered & by moving where it sits changes how far into the motor the pushrod is sitting. TYTrials has the adjuster in stock, I just bought 1 for mine Friction plate thickness should be between 2.7-3mm, almost sounds like yours must be more than that or the cable is stretching/breaking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 I had exactly the same issue on my A model and yet there was nothing worn on my clutch cam, and there was not enough adjustment using the height of that cam to get the adjustment right. In my case the problem was the cable. It is a simple matter to find where the problem lies because if you can achieve a cable-to-arm angle of 90 degrees as the clutch pushrod starts getting loaded, then the problem is in the cable. If your cam/pushrod/ball/plates are fine, the cable problem can be fixed by fitting a spacer to the cable outer at the gearbox end cable retainer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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