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What Did You Do To Your Fantic Twin Or Mono Shock Today !


shyted
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  • 3 months later...

 

Just bought a 300 floating front backing plate for my trusty 240 ... I just hope they work as good as I've been told . But the price was right so I gotta try it ! ... Right ?

Glenn

If you have not fitted it yet could you please take a photo of it please. One from the front and one from the back would be great.

I have also heard they are good and just want to see how they work.

Thanks

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Now that I have it in hand , I can see the ingenious way it works . Even though the shoes are not new , they are in good shape and worn perfectly even the whole length of the lining . :) As you can see in the 2 photo's of the outside , the actuating pivot is on a separate floating mount on the backing plate attached by the small bolt . The secondary plate has about 8mm of forward and aft movement so the shoes center up completely when the brake is applied . I'm gona clean it up and lube it and try it out tomorrow . Will let you know if it's better than the 240 plate with a bored out spindle hole and modified as much as I can ...

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Hope it works good !

Glenn

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I just installed the 300 brake plate . I just putted around the yard for a minute to make sure it works and it does , quite well ... I need to add a small bend to the actuator arm around the fork tube to get the cable end inline with the arm . It's pulling the cable at a small angle ... Details , Details ....

But in the little bit I rode , it feels much more progressive and stronger than the stock plate . I've got a event next weekend , so trial by fire !

Glenn

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK my Brake results ...

Front brake works FANTASTIC !!! now I just have to soften the rear brake so it's not a toggle switch ...

Rear seems to be either off completely or locking up , especially on any downhill .

Any clues on how to make the rear a bit more progressive ?

Or was it the combination of the excellent front feel and the greasy North Carolina mud playing tricks on me ???

Maybe ride her some more first ?

Glenn

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  • 2 weeks later...
 

OK my Brake results ...

Front brake works FANTASTIC !!! now I just have to soften the rear brake so it's not a toggle switch ...

Rear seems to be either off completely or locking up , especially on any downhill .

Any clues on how to make the rear a bit more progressive ?

Or was it the combination of the excellent front feel and the greasy North Carolina mud playing tricks on me ???

Maybe ride her some more first ?

Glenn

Chamfer the leading edges, should reduce the on/off.

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What brake pedal are you using? Stock or Sammy? I drilled a lower hole in my Sammy Miller to increase leverage which made the brake more controllable as it takes slightly more travel to engage,less pedal pressure but more control over engagement.with the stock SM hole I had to press harder and it just seemed to be not stopping enough or locking up.

Why isn't your index finger on the clutch lever? good form otherwise :icon_salut:

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Re riding techniques, particularly clutch control, using twin shock/pre 65 bikes, negotiating clubman type sections, it is better to leave the clutch engaged. Learn to ride, in full control in first gear, using precise throttle control off tickover. It also means a modest rider has one less variable to manage and reduces the risk of braking traction when re engaging drive. If you need proof, watch the older more experienced riders trickling through sections in first gear, using throttle control, weight distribution & body counter balance, with the clutch fully engaged.

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Re riding techniques, particularly clutch control, using twin shock/pre 65 bikes, negotiating clubman type sections, it is better to leave the clutch engaged. Learn to ride, in full control in first gear, using precise throttle control off tickover. It also means a modest rider has one less variable to manage and reduces the risk of braking traction when re engaging drive. If you need proof, watch the older more experienced riders trickling through sections in first gear, using throttle control, weight distribution & body counter balance, with the clutch fully engaged.

What he said in about 20% of the sections I ride , but on that day my son was wearing my gloves and I was sweating like a pig ! literally running down my arms/wrists keeping my hands slimy , so I was just maintaining a grip on the bars and thinking to much ...

I've got the SM brake lever , Doug , You mean move the rod closer to the pivot to reduce the leverage ? never thought of that ... :)

Thanks ,

Glenn

And the new airoh helmet is GREAT ! just pop the liner pieces out and wash in the sink :) no stink helmet !!! and it's light and comfy too :)

Edited by axulsuv
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Closer to the pivot increases leverage but also increases lever travel vs.engagement. helped with control on my bike,may not be the issue on yours,but it's not a irreversible mod,conversely you could extend the arm decreasing the leverage too.

Our vintage sections demand clutch work,modulating power with the clutch is very necessary. My Fantic is actually working better than my Sherco right now in that aspect,however my SWM is crap in that it releases suddenly just when you are trying to increase slip that tiny bit extra and the bike comes to a stop.Can't say 61AJS is wrong as I had to ride that way this past weekend but I wouldn't have done so poorly on the first two loops if the clutch was spiffy,it got into my head too,adjusted and rode clutchless style the last loop but sections I could easily have cleaned left me hanging with a dab or two(After 3's and 5's the first loop!).It's all down to friction in the plates/basket/actuator and I will fix that in the off season,next few weeks are laying out the Trials Inc. Vintage Cup Finals.(We have some VERY good riders in our series and sections have to be tough to take points!)(Single line trials too!)

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