redondo76 Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 hello, For question 1 I guess the answer is NO wrt performance. But as I also upgraded to LiPo and more volts I also got a huge improvement on the performance. Eirik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redline2097 Posted May 3, 2015 Report Share Posted May 3, 2015 Any instructions to add Kelly Controller to Oset 12.5" when planning to get direct contact to motor and removing relay and key switch. If using relay do I need to purchase 36v male or female version or should any 36v relay do the business? I will use 37v lipo pack for the bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redondo76 Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 Hello, Thinking of getting some more range and maybe also top speed. I have 2x2 5S 5800mah today which gives me 37V (~42V fully charged) and 11600mah. Would the OSET 16" 36V engine (750 or 800W) manage 2x2 6S batteries? I have the Kelly controller KDS48200 so believe that with the adjustment possibilities I could use 2x2 6S or 2x12s batteries? This will be 44,4V (and 50,2V fully charged). Too much? Eirik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 yes the motor would be fine, at that voltage but keep a eye on the temp of the motor if you intend to run it at the same current or higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj_rknz Posted December 8, 2016 Report Share Posted December 8, 2016 Hi All- Great thread. I have had a 2016 20R for a few months and I recently upgraded the battery to a 14s10p pack of NCR18650 PFs w/ a 50A continuous/125A peak BMS which is awesome. I have been suffering with the stock throttle and controller, however, and I have big hopes for improvement with my recently ordered KDS72200E controller and Domino 5 wire throttle. This thread will be really helpful when I go to install these new components. Now my questions: 1) Any suggestion on using the 4th and 5th wires from the Domino? My understanding is they are a switch - I wonder if I should use them to turn off the controller when the throttle is closed? 2) Regarding the main fuse between the battery and the relay, I am not clear on what I should be using. Would I want to go with 125A or perhaps a big heavier? Thanks again to everyone who has contributed to this thread - I will share my experience once I have some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted December 8, 2016 Report Share Posted December 8, 2016 yes the switch is to disable the controller.. you can wire the switch to the controller brake ... not the contactor line.. remember that you will have to change the throttle type to a 0-5v pot throttle ( default i think is a hall throttle ). the fuse is just there to protect the wiring and will not stop any faults so as you have a battery of outputting 125A then thats what you should use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj_rknz Posted December 8, 2016 Report Share Posted December 8, 2016 Thanks very much Gwhy - from reading this and other forums it seems you know more about this stuff than just about anybody. Since I am still in the design phase, perhaps I could try one more on you? My understanding is the Electric Motion EM 5.7 has a "clutch" which is really just an on-off switch on a lever which can be "popped" with the throttle in a partially open position. I believe this would switch something different than the kill switch - maybe using a separate relay or something... do you have any thoughts on this and/or how this functionality might best be set up with the Kelly KDS? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted December 8, 2016 Report Share Posted December 8, 2016 I dont know much about how the em mimics a clutch but it is just a on/off operation so actually nothing like a real clutch. from my limited knowlage about the em I would say that it is just a throttle on/off control i.e the clutch switch turns the throttle signal line on and off. You will have to fit a pull down resistor on the signal line ( on the controller side 5-10k will be fine) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj_rknz Posted December 17, 2016 Report Share Posted December 17, 2016 Ok, I decided against the "clutch" and I am working on the actual wiring design since the controller will get here next week. I do want to put in a battery disconnect of the sort that might be used on a boat or an RV- the one I got can handle the power of my system. My question is this: while the main contactor is on the (+) side of the power circuit, it seems to make sense to me to put the battery disconnect on the (-) side. Is this correct? Also, I am unsure whether I need a precharge resistor in parallel with the battery disconnect switch. I believe not as this would seem to leak current across the switch which would prevent the complete disconnection of the battery. Can you tell me if my logic is wrong - perhaps I need some other component such as a cap in series with the switch instead to protect the controller from the power surge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted December 17, 2016 Report Share Posted December 17, 2016 (edited) Its very important to have a mecanical disconnect ( contactor or relay ) from the batterys on a brushed system because brushed controllers do not always fail safe The precharge resistor is only used when connecting the battery to the main connector.. most controllers have a ignition wire so you need a small on/off switch on the ignition wire. With the ignition wire off the controller is off so the precharge resistor is only used to charge the caps in the controller once caps are charged there is no more current flowing until the ignition wire is connected and the throttle is twisted, so in theroy there is no loss through the precharge resistor, in reality there is a tiny bit of loss because the caps do leak a little so the precharge will keep them topped up. You can use a small switch ( push button ) on the precharge circuit with a led that will light to tell you when you can turn the main contactor to the on postion this will prevent that little bit of leakage. It do not really matter wheather you have it in the pos or neg of the circuit but you do need it as close to the main battery as possible. Edited December 17, 2016 by gwhy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj_rknz Posted December 17, 2016 Report Share Posted December 17, 2016 (edited) Ok, I think I've got it. Attached is a schematic that started as the stock drawing from Kelly that I modified - my edits are shown in red. Could I trouble you to take a quick look and see whether it looks right? Thanks again for the help. Edited December 18, 2016 by dj_rknz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted December 18, 2016 Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 that looks ok and will work... just one suggestion ... if the ignition switch (kill switch) is left in the on postion ( and using the main contactor to turn on ) the precharge becomes useless and the relay contracts will soon pit with arcing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj_rknz Posted December 18, 2016 Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 Thanks. My plan is to locate the battery disconnect above the battery and use it only as a safety shutoff when the bike is not being used- it will only be turned on or off when the key is off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grndZr0 Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 Soooo... I have a 3yr old who will be 4 this spring. I took him to an MX practice last fall, and he loved it. I was thinking he is ready for a gas bike, but he doesnt really fit any of them yet, but i have his 12.5 turned all of the way up, and i think he is ready for some more HP. I was thinking it might be handy to get 2 9AH milwaukee 18v drill batteries. And set his 12.5 up for 36v. Am i Crazy? I thought the drill batteries would maybe be more durable, and the charging seemed simpler. Would the kelly controller work with these batteries? Would i get a bunch more power and speed kicking the 12.5 up to 36v? Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redline2097 Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 Actually we have used Oset 12.5 motor @40v 50-55A with Kelly Controller KDS48100E over 1.5 years now. This is with 12.5 wheels: Then the size of 12.5 tires became an obstacle for bigger speed but Neo wasn't tall enough to drive with 16.0 - so we upgraded his 12.5 with 16.0 racing parts (tires, front and back) and lengthened the swing. It is still running aat Oset 12.5 motor but it's about 2" lower than 16.0. On the first video he is 2.5 years old, indoor motocross track and hill climbing at 3.5 years old. And the winter ones @ 4 years old. Looks good to me 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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