mic Posted July 14, 2013 Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 (edited) I have a problem with the clutch on my bike, it keeps dragging even with the lever completely pulled in to the handlebar. The bike is used but new to me since one week, the last owner used Motorex 10W30 synthetic gearbox oil, so my first question is if this is a good oil to use for my bike? It has been a while since i last owned a bike and the last one did not have an hydraulic clutch so im not yet familiar with this, can the problem be air in the hydralic system for the clutch? It does not feel like it is slipping at any point, just not completely disengaging when the lever is pulled. I have tried to adjust the play and the "setting" of the clutch lever, but without any noticable difference. Please let me know if you have any ideas? Edited September 16, 2013 by mic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee99780 Posted July 14, 2013 Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 Hi, I have a 300 pro. I had the same problem. As far as I know it's all to do with adjustment. I put a new clutch in mine with new oil not atf. Id try and try and try adjustment first though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie chitlins Posted July 14, 2013 Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 The only adjustment is a tiny bit of freeplay at the lever. I never rode a Pro that didn't have clutch drag. People associated with GG have told me that it's supposed to be that way and you'll learn to like that little bit of "push" at the back tire when the lever is pulled. Sorry, but when I pull the lever I like the clutch to disengage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mic Posted July 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 Thanks for your input, i found a tutorial on youtube for the clutch adjustment and mine is setup just like it, not much to adjust really. I guess i have to get used to it then, but i have to agree, its not the way i would like it t be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee99780 Posted July 14, 2013 Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 Mine used to cut out mid section cos of the drag. Tinker about with the adjustment and reach screws and you will get it right. It took me a while but that's what it'll most likely be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jandyb Posted July 14, 2013 Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 Try take the clutch apart and give all parts a good clean. Sometimes there can be a lot of grit in there that dont come out in a regular oil change.. -Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie chitlins Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 You could play with oil viscosity. Mine was happiest with 5w30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 Take a look under the little rubber boot on the master cylinder. If it has dirt or rust, the piston will not have full travel. This can cause people to adjust the clutch incorrectly. BTW, I have ridden "Pro's" that had no clutch drag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoben12 Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 (edited) both our pros ( 300 and 125) have no drag! it shouldn't have lots of drag and its not normal for the clutch to do that. it was designed to disengage so you can stop! although many bikes do have drag its not supposed to be that way! dont get used to it and try a different gear oil. the best stuff you can get for a gasgas is GRO extreme gear oil 75w or GRO gear trans. we use this is and has eliminated the drag . try it its great stuff! The only adjustment is a tiny bit of freeplay at the lever. I never rode a Pro that didn't have clutch drag. People associated with GG have told me that it's supposed to be that way and you'll learn to like that little bit of "push" at the back tire when the lever is pulled. Sorry, but when I pull the lever I like the clutch to disengage. Edited July 15, 2013 by shercoben12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mic Posted July 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 (edited) I removed the dustseal and checked the mastercylinder, it was a bit of oil and dirt that was collected behind the circlips, i removed it and cleaned everything but still way to much drag. im going to try to change the oil and bleed the system and also change the gearbox oil later today. Unfortunatly i have already bought some ATF dexron 3 for the gearbox after advice of an other GasGas owner, otherwise i could have tried the oil you suggested (shercoben). Edited July 15, 2013 by mic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie chitlins Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 Any clutch I've seen that has had its friction material separate from the plate (several) has been run in ATF. It has solvent in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoben12 Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 yeah charlie that used to happen on the pre pro gassers but the newer ones seem to be alright. but still atf is so thin! its great for clutches but not good for bearings! mic - i would still buy some GRO as this is what gasgas factory recommends and which raga uses. its what they tell the dealer to use when they assemble the bike from the box. it doesn't drag from new does it?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee99780 Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 I would strongly advise against atf. It swells your clutch plates and makes drag! I don't think you need to bleed it unless it crunches into gear? My pro had atf in. I replaced it with motul light gear oil. Made a big difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoben12 Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 ATF will make dp clutch packs swell so unless you know what you've got I wouldn't bother. Use GRO it's the best you can get I promose you I cannot say enough how good it is!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mic Posted July 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 (edited) Ok, now i have opened the clutchpackage and thouroghly cleaned them with brake cleaner, measured the pack and it is within the tolerances specified (i measured 9.8mm), reassembled everything and filled it with 550ml (according to the manual) motorex 10w/30 which was all that was available at my local bikeshop, skipped the ATF oil after your comments. Started the thing and i could notice a small improvement, but still quite a bit of drag... Im far from an expert on these things, but my feeling is that the slavecylinder dont move enough to completely disengage the clutch. Edited July 16, 2013 by mic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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