Special Tools For Crankshaft Removal

[mcman56]

_{It was a tapered shaft fit so I expected it to be difficult like a flywheel. However, it came apart very easily...surprisingly easy. I just tapped it with a light brass hammer and then pried up with screw drivers. (being careful not to damage the gasket surface) This was a 2008 that started as a 200.}

[southwester]

Cheers I will have a look

[southwester]

I got this far with my engine strip and took it up to the tyre garage to rattle gun off clutch nut and primary drive gear and it turns out a motocross suspension tune up and repair shop has opened up a few doors down so I saw them and the bloke said he will split

the cases, inspect, clean it and replace seals for

[mcman56]

I only pulled off one side of the cases from the crank. I had to make a pull fixture to "push" the crank out of the case half. It did not go easily and wanted to tilt and jam so took a bit of time.

[worldtrialchamp]

Hi guys

Several yrs ago I purchased a good quality compressor, 1/2" drive pnuematic impact gun with single hex sockets, air blower and also a parts washing tub with pump. I use white spirits (not cheap but if the lid is kept on it doesn't evaporate fast)

I never stop using them, and they are a great investment. I recently split the cases on my 08 Rev3 to change the crank bearings (I just bought the bike and on first lengthy test ride noticed they were a bit rumbly, looks as though the bike may have been getting started after washing and a small amount of water vapour was entering the airbox and then crankcase-thats my theory, as the rest of the bike/engine is like new).

First thing that needs to be done is to wash the exterior of the engine, so that all the grit that builds up on the underside of the case halfs doesn't end up on your work bench..

For removal of the crank mass on LHS I marked the bolt head with a paint pen and zipped it off with a gun, then used a steering wheel puller I had bought for the car (very inexpensive) and the mass came off very easily, the clutch hub I again marked the nut position and zipped it off with impact gun.

To split cases I was very patient and with a nylon hammer very gently tap the RHS case half until it starts to slide off the crank bearing.It takes a while and you need to be gentle but as long as you tap it off evenly it will come apart. It took a whole 15mins so its not a long process at all...

The LH crank half, well this really does need a pusher tool. I tapped the crankshaft out of the LH casing with the nylon hammer which I am not so comfortable with but didn't have a pusher tool. So long as you suporrt the crank by the LH crank web the impacts of the hammer should not upset the alignment of the crank assembly. If you find you really need to strike the crank heavily to the point its gone way beyond firm blows then I'd be seeking use of a hydraulic press to avoid risking upsetting crankshaft alignment.

To reassemble, (after crank bearing replacement) I bought a cheap heat gun and heat the crank bearings in the case halves until crank shaft slides easily into them and the cases come together easily. To retension the clutch hub nut and crank mass I just used the impact gun on medium setting until the paint marks realign again. Would be wonderful to have the holders and use torque wrench but there are ways atround this if you're careful and don't underestimate the strength of the impact gun

Throughout this process you can remove the gearbox components which makes it less awkward when removing crankshaft but it can be done without dissasembling gearbox (as I have done given nothing wrong with this gearbox). However, to replace crank bearings I did eventually remove the gearbox components (it all needs washing), otherwise consider leaving them in place..

Edited November 8, 2013 by worldtrialchamp

[shyted]

Quick one for not damaging your clutch assembly . One old steel clutch plate,a piece if strong flat bar, measuring tape and a file . Measure 5 cm from the end , bend in a vice to 70 degreesish . Measure gap between the basket blades .File your bar back to that measurement . Cut the measured end back so you can get into the space where the steel goes . Have a 30 cm long handle . Take it to the nearest place with a mig and get them to weld it .

You can then undo and tighten the center fastner to the correct torque measurment without air tools,without stripping threads or any other problems .

I bought a clutch tool recently and its got the strength of tin foil . So i made my own .

[magicmat]

Im commeting so i can find this thread later, handy post and think i need to do this on my beta