mboon Posted September 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Next was the front wheel Started like this Montesa Cota 247 Restoration metal work by Mark Boon, on Flickr Montesa Cota 247 Restoration metal work by Mark Boon, on Flickr During the clean Montesa Cota 247 Restoration metal work by Mark Boon, on Flickr Montesa Cota 247 Restoration metal work by Mark Boon, on Flickr After Same photo as above but you can see the difference Montesa Cota 247 Restoration metal work by Mark Boon, on Flickr Next was the manifold pipe, thought I best start on this seems as the rest of the exaust is complete Started like this Montesa Cota 247 Restoration metal work by Mark Boon, on Flickr Montesa Cota 247 Restoration metal work by Mark Boon, on Flickr Montesa Cota 247 Restoration metal work by Mark Boon, on Flickr After a good amount of time rubbing down. I wanted to get it back to factory finish but no chance of that happening. Looking fo ideas on this please? the rest of the exhaust is satin black Montesa Cota 247 Restoration metal work by Mark Boon, on Flickr Montesa Cota 247 Restoration metal work by Mark Boon, on Flickr Montesa Cota 247 Restoration metal work by Mark Boon, on Flickr Montesa Cota 247 Restoration metal work by Mark Boon, on Flickr I also cleaned up the jubalee clips on the airbox hose and the hose itself Looks like this now Montesa Cota 247 Restoration metal work by Mark Boon, on Flickr Ready to go back on the bike. I have the fuel tank back now and waiting on the rear tyre to be changed. Once the tyre is complete the bike will go back together and be tested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 There is high temperature paint that is used on auto headers in rattle cans. Usually a flat black finish but it will hold up with the heat. Question: when you are polishing, are you doing this just by hand or are you using some buffing wheel or pad in a powered tool? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboon Posted September 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 There is high temperature paint that is used on auto headers in rattle cans. Usually a flat black finish but it will hold up with the heat. Question: when you are polishing, are you doing this just by hand or are you using some buffing wheel or pad in a powered tool? I have some of that paint but it looks bad I put a couple coats on the exhaust and then went over with the satin, see how that fairs. If it needs sanding down again and going over I will sort that. I am purely using the autosol, a couple cloths and my hands. Have not been able to feel my fingers for a few days now but I am sure its worth it. I had a little go at the engine covers last night. Not the best due to little chips in the metal etc but certainly looks better than it did. Still waiting on the rear tyre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroke4stroke Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 You've done well getting two bikes in what are basically fairly good order for their age and lack of use. Mudguards will, I imagine, be unobtainable and I would suggest preserving the undamaged alloy ones for when you want it to look right but fit plastic ones for actually using the bike. Later Monts had the best plastic guards in the history of trials - they actually worked as mudguards and you could lift the bike by them, but originals of those can't be had. Modern bikes have mudguards that break if you look at them too hard The kick start lever was in the wrong position in the photos - it might catch your leg. Correct position is rotated further forward but if you put it too far forward the mechanism will punch a hole in the casing so best research the correct way to fit the lever. Similary, don't be tempted to fold the footrest up to get a better swing on the lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboon Posted September 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 You've done well getting two bikes in what are basically fairly good order for their age and lack of use. Mudguards will, I imagine, be unobtainable and I would suggest preserving the undamaged alloy ones for when you want it to look right but fit plastic ones for actually using the bike. Later Monts had the best plastic guards in the history of trials - they actually worked as mudguards and you could lift the bike by them, but originals of those can't be had. Modern bikes have mudguards that break if you look at them too hard The kick start lever was in the wrong position in the photos - it might catch your leg. Correct position is rotated further forward but if you put it too far forward the mechanism will punch a hole in the casing so best research the correct way to fit the lever. Similary, don't be tempted to fold the footrest up to get a better swing on the lever. I would say the other bike is a bit past it. That one needs a full restore as the frame is covered in surface rust. I think with a bit of love though the other bike will run and ride. We did have the kick set to that position but the mechanic changed it for ease of kicking it over. Seems to work fine at the moment but we have not riden the bike yet so could be in the way. Once we have that first ride under our belt we should be able to iron out all these little things. The mudgaurds is another thing on my mind, we have the plastic covers for the old bike so might put them on while we test etc to keep the metal ones for best. Hd my daughters 2nd birthday yesterday so not looked at the bike since the weekend. Will get back to it when I can Had a price to chrome the manifold of £45 plus VAT and postage both ways. So got to be looking at £80. Not sure if I am going to do this, thinking about sanding down and spraying black the same as the exhaust? Anyone got some thoughts on this? Thanks Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboon Posted September 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 Another update... I had a price to get the exhaust header chromed and to be honest, need to get some other bits sorted at a later date so opted to paint it satin black, fit and use the bike for testing purpose. I will remove all the chrome parts another time and get them all looking new again. So now the bike has been sat for a couple weeks I wanted to try get it back together and running again. We got the rear tyre sorted on the old girl so fitted that back up and adjusted. I also tapped up the engine so I could spray the top half black Tyre fitted Montesa Cota Restoration by Mark Boon, on Flickr Montesa Cota Restoration by Mark Boon, on Flickr Before Montesa Cota 247 Restoration by Mark Boon, on Flickr After Montesa Cota 247 Restoration by Mark Boon, on Flickr Montesa Cota 247 Restoration by Mark Boon, on Flickr After this I fitted the exhaust back on Montesa Cota Restoration by Mark Boon, on Flickr Montesa Cota Restoration by Mark Boon, on Flickr Other things I have done is cleaned the tank and tap filter out. Sprayed the screw and bolt ends etc, Fitted the air filter After putting the tank back on and checking everything I primed the carb and gave it a couple kicks. She fired straight into life as she did before. Took a video again, still missing the rear exhaust hose so getting exhaust gases leaking but that will be resolved soon enough. I even took it for a little ride up the garden and out the front of our house. Showed my dad and put her back. Just got to clean up a few bits now like the rear fender, get them fitted and she will be out for a test. I have noticed one thing not working and that is the rear brake. I fitted it as it came off, it is not pulling the brake enough to engage the pads. I have checked and adjusted as much as I can... Looking for ideas on this? I compared the pad thickness to new and they have well over half left...? This is the video of her running again Also found the place my dad used to go on these bikes Montesa Cota 247 Restoration by Mark Boon, on Flickr Montesa Cota 247 Restoration by Mark Boon, on Flickr Montesa Cota 247 Restoration by Mark Boon, on Flickr Hope you like. Any comments welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 Looks and sounds good! Regarding the rear brake, I am no expert on this bike but most mechanical linkage brakes are made with splines on the brake levers and shafts. this allows you to mount the lever to a different angle to get more or less brake pressure. The screw adjuster on the brake rod is for fine tuning once you get the major position right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboon Posted September 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 Cheers mate. I have tried adjusting like you mention but moving the splin to the next notch means it is miles away from the cable I will double check it to make sure it was not me having a bad day. I have started the bike a couple times now and she runs great. Smoke is clearing a bit and tickover is great. Also she seems to prime the carb better so might of had some dirt in there or something. It is raining alot this end so not much will be done to the bike until that passes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toofasttim Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 Donor bike looks like it might be an Ulf Karlsson Replica. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboon Posted September 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 Donor bike looks like it might be an Ulf Karlsson Replica. Correct, it is. I like the air filter on the Ulf bike but would take some of the originality away from the other bike if I start chopping and changing bits. Are the Ulf Karson bikes worth anymore or less than a standard 247? thanks Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 Install the lever on the brake hub end, but do not connect the cable yet. Rotate the lever until the brakes begin to touch. If there is a lot of rotation, there may not be enough travel in the cable. So, you may need to index the lever on the spline to take up some of the slack before you connect the cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroke4stroke Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 (edited) From memory the brake lever fits on to a square on the end of the cam. What I can't remember is if the square was aligned with the cam or whether turning the cam through 180 degrees would effectively change the relationship with the cam and give a better action with part worn shoes. I hope that describes things properly. Edited September 16, 2013 by 2stroke4stroke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboon Posted September 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 Guys, I think you have it spot on. I know my mistake.. or at least I think I do. Will confirm when I see it on the bike. Fingers crossed that is a nice simple fix. I am tempted to try get the bike out this weekend and give it a run, see what is what. Not got the tank cover back yet so waiting for that to finish things off. Just need to fit the right hand side foot rest and we should be away.. o yeah and a seat, hurts sat on the frame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboon Posted September 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 I wet and dried the rear fender Before Untitled by Mark Boon, on Flickr After wet and dry Untitled by Mark Boon, on Flickr After metal polished and finished Untitled by Mark Boon, on Flickr I then put the two mud gaurds back on the bike Untitled by Mark Boon, on Flickr Untitled by Mark Boon, on Flickr Untitled by Mark Boon, on Flickr Untitled by Mark Boon, on Flickr Untitled by Mark Boon, on Flickr Untitled by Mark Boon, on Flickr Untitled by Mark Boon, on Flickr I also sorted the rear brake out. Just needed the changes mentioned above. Thanks for your help on that one. I kicked the old girl into life, started first kick! Had a little drive up the garden and the front brake is ever so slightly sticking on but think using the bike will resolve this. I also fitted the foot pedal. She is ready now for the tank cover and to be used and tested. I might have to remove the exhaust manifold and repaint with heat resistant satin black Thanks Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pro sport Posted September 25, 2013 Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 (edited) Hi Mark Just noticed that the front brake arm is behind the fork leg, it should be in front . This will move the position of the brake actuation lever so you might have to adjust it like you have with the rear brake , it will give a straighter pull on the cable making it less likely to stick.You can just make it out behind my horrible Red Forks. Cheers Dave Edited September 26, 2013 by pro sport Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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