southwester Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 I seem to be having some bad luck with a 2007 Rev 3 250 I bought a few weeks back, I have only rode it for about 7 hours in total on 3 occasions and its played up in some way each time. 1st time out I couldn't get it started, unbeknown to me the stock kill switch sticks on which a helpful person where I was riding pointed out but the next day and from then on it wont start unless the lights button was depressed as well. 2nd time out I found that when I shut off the throttle it takes about 10 seconds for the revs to drop to idle speed and there's pinking at low revs, another kind gentleman where I was riding advised me there might be an air leak on the intake and to service the carb so I striped off the back of the bike and sent carb off for a sonic clean and drill out mod on the carb to stop fuel p******, I replaced all the gaskets-rubbers within carb and all gaskets from reed block to air box and sealed the holes drilled in air box? (why oh why?) There was a fair bit of crap in the carb when I got it off with the cir clip on needle in the 2nd position, 35 pilot and 150 main. The jets are now in there stock position 30 pilot, 150 main and middle needle position. The revs now drop as they should so some thing went well but still having the pinking at low revs? 3rd time I went out after an hour or so the pressure relief valve opened on radiator cap and that ended that day out, after linking out thermostat and running the bike in the garden the fan runs so the thermostat gave up the ghost. Can anybody comment on the pinking issue, why the bike needs a stat as the fan on mine is on before the bikes warmed up any way and what other damage the coolant over heating may have done to the engine or gaskets?. Oh and the lights on to start engine issue? I've spent more more hours working on the bike at the moment than riding it Thanks in advance to any commenters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 First off the stock kill button/ light switch should just be changed to a kill button. That`s the first thing I do on any bike. Go back to the 35 it will help with the pinking. ( cleaning a carb and air box is the first thing you do on any used bike) I`d pull the water pump off and inspect the impeller. Once you know the cooling system is working , check the rest of the electronics. Used bikes require work first, then riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 You are missing a ground connection. There is a big black wire that connects to the top triple clamp behind the headlight. Reroute it down by the ignition coil and hard ground it to the frame. See if you can find my post on the same thing on my 08. Ignition epiphany or something like that. I'll post more when I can because I'm away from home at the moment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Betas ping without race gas. Carb will stop peeing fuel if you nip a hole in the float bowl vent tubes about halfway up the carb body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Dan, I have always enjoyed your posts. Race gas is not a cure when jetting can fix the problem. Some trials bikes do benefit from a higher octane fuel, but I would jet it based on fuel that is widely available. Try the 35 pilot again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Ah back from visiting the in-laws. Glad to be back at work where I can relax, sort of. You have no option but to jet to the available fuel. You can jet rich to eliminate a pre-ignition mostly because the extra evaporating fuel cools the combustion chamber but it isn't optimum. Another gasket under the cylinder to slightly reduce the compression is also an option. This reduces the pressure in the cylinder to something a bit more in line with the lower octane rated fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southwester Posted September 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 I'm in the UK my choise's are standard unleaded or super-premium unleaded 1 has the less octane I think. I spoke to beta and they said it was jetted for standard unleaded and the jets are back to standard now. Back to the Q about needing a rad thermostat, I can't think of a reason why i do, any body else or can I just leave it linked out? Would the head gasket likely to have blown when the fan stopped running and coolant discharged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tltel Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Hi. It sounds like you need to check out all your wiring and connectors and as Dan said grounds or earths. change the kill switch and if you don't need the lights, disconnect them too. Not sure if Betas have a thermostat or a thermo switch as on my gasser, but if your fan was running before engine was hot, but not when it was hot it seems like that needs replacing too. (if you didn't need it, it wouldn't be there) Check fan with an independent 12v supply, make sure it spins and keeps spinning. If you stopped as soon as engine boiled up you should be ok. The pinking could be caused by poor spark due to bad earthing of ignition system, so may go away once that's sorted. Its worth checking squish clearance as a thicker base gasket may be required (can cause pinking if too tight). When you buy a used bike you never know whats been done to it in the past. TLTEL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southwester Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 Ok thanks, could be a lot of things them, I rerouted earth from triple clamp to where the larger wire brown earth is on frame behind plastic shroud and ignition box and bike stared 1st time without lights on so that seems to have worked. Makes me wonder why the guy who had it before me didn't do this? or perhaps he only rode in the dark. Does the pinky do any damage to the engine? the previous owner did have a 35 in there I may try that next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckindenver Posted September 7, 2013 Report Share Posted September 7, 2013 check the regulator...if the fans not working, are the lights working? does it blow the bulb as soon as you rev it? this is a common issue wih the model.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southwester Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 The bike over heated again yesterday and when I took off the water pump cover some serious corrosion has taken place, I had already scraped away a layer of emulsified oil before I took picture. Is it a engine out job to replace inner clutch cover? the rubber mat between the engine and skid plate looks as though its going to be in the way of getting it out with engine in place. New kill switch on order Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southwester Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 I sussed the skid plate had to be taken out to get the inner clutch cover off which was quite easy, so while I'm in here I thought I may as well look at the clutch and all looks well on the face of it, to a layman it looks new. There seems to be some loose glue-deposits between friction plates but nothing like I have seen that needs filling off like on Dan's clutch fix sticky thread and no notches-grooves. 2 things I cant seem to find out is what thickness of friction material is on tab when new and what thickness does it need changing at and how are they checked for being flat a piece of glass? and what measuring tool(s) are used, feeler gauges? Hope everybody had good rides the weekend, hopefully I'll be sorted for next weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0007 Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Clutches seem to last pretty good on these things, I thought I had a copy of the manual around but you can just view it on the beta site Measure plate thickness but make sure you measure the free length of the springs, they can lose preload just from sitting the last 6 years partially compressed While you have the clutch apart scrape the glue from between the plates, you can use a small file or an Exacto knife to remove it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckindenver Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 time for a new cover...use dex cool, straight...no water.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southwester Posted September 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Nope still cant find any info on clutch tolerance's has anyone got a link? or a idiots guide New inner clutch cover on order with gaskets, seals and everything else to do a proper job along with a Yammy kill switch and chain and sprockets with11-41 teeth as after watching a how 2 video online yesterday confirmed mine were well over due replacement. You know the trick where you hold the chain on its side and if makes to much of an arc it needs changing well I can make a O with mine. Is it normal for the front sprocket to be loose on the drive shaft because the one I have on there wobbles side to side (out of verticle) massively. New tyres will be next if nothing else rears its ugly head and this low rev pinking issue if the for mentioned fixes don't sort it. I bought water wetter which cost £20 in my local shop but I dont understand the instructions on the bottle as in what ratio to mix with water with or without anti freeze and wtf size cup are they referring to, I work in pints and gallons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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