jon98gg Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 Hi everyone, I'm new on here so I'll apoligise now if I am a bit slow. I have just bought a '98 270 gas gas for cheap off a bloke at work as I used to ride them when I was younger and as a little project to do up. There was many things wrong with the bike but I have managed to repair most of them. I have repaired the original clutch master cylinder as there was a moped one on when I got it. I have bled the clutch but it still drags so I thought il change engine oil to see if it makes a difference. I opened the spyglass and the oil has emulsified as this white goo began to run out. Im going to warm he bike up before draining the oil out through the plug at the bottom to ensure it all runs out. Now my problem is I can not find where I put the oil back in!!!! I have watched Jim at gas gas on youtube and I still cant find it. My only thought is to lay the bike on its side and pour it back in through the spyglass?? If you could help on this problem it would be much appreciated as any other problems I have had, I have just read different topics on here and you have answered my problem. Hope to hear from you soon. Cheers Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bilks Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 (edited) Yes you have to have the bike on its side to refill,but there should be a plug about a 1/1/2 inches above the sight glass which needs a allen key to remove,refill through that. Edited September 16, 2013 by bilks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon98gg Posted September 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 Think iv found it now, very well disguised but thanks Bilks. Il use a make shift dipstick to make sure its correct hole (had things in wrong hole before, didn't do down well ) Thanks!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 Yes, you need to change that oil using the correct hole! But, if the oil that came out looks milky you also need to replace the water pump seal. This is a common issue with these bikes, the seal wears and water/coolant gets into the transmission oil. Water is not a very good lubricant as evidenced by the dragging clutch. It sounds like the bike had dodgy maintenance before so it would be best to replace the water pump seal and shaft as a set because the shafts also wear in the area of the seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdy Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 (edited) From personal experience buying a poorly maintained bike with white oil, see if it uses any water before going to the hassle and expense of changing water pump shaft and seal. Try changing the oil a few times see if it stays clear. The oil can sometimes go white due to condensation, sucking water in the breather pipe if in deep water, and lack of changing oil regularly, have fun. Edited September 16, 2013 by birdy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted September 17, 2013 Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 the old engines have a different water pump, and all that, so it shouldn't have the shaft/seal problem that the early pro engines had with the UNHARDENED pump shaft. I almost never heard of the water pump problem on the old engines, but by now, they are getting old, so there has to be a rebuild kit probably easy enough to get through gasgas parts person...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon98gg Posted September 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 Thanks for your info guys. Iv had the engine case off and the only way the oil will go back in is through the spy glass, so bike on its side and in there then. The seal on the water pump did look a bit worn so going replace that along with both sets of bearings in there and the hardenend shaft I can make at work so hopefully everything will be ok! Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted September 18, 2013 Report Share Posted September 18, 2013 The "Edition" model which was made from 1993 to 2002 did have a problem with the water pump seals and shafts wearing. I do not know if this was a problem with unhardened shafts, but I do know I changed the seal 3 times in the 6 years I owned my '94. I do not know about the new model engine that was released as the 2003 "PRO". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted September 19, 2013 Report Share Posted September 19, 2013 Not Arguing, I wonder if that is the year, not the range of years? Anyway, that is news to me, but I only had the 1999 321, while dad had a 2000 321, for couple years, and it was a well used bike when I bought it. But I could have bought the bike after he replaced the pump parts, however unlikely that was I think he would have said so when I bought it. The Pro engine, just FYI the shafts were supposed to be hardened and chromed, (I think?) but the hardening was sub par. I think by 2009 they finally got them done right? the seal would actually chew a groove in the shaft, about 7 months to a year, and the kit isn't cheap anymore, like near $100 USD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon98gg Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 I've repaired my full water pump (hardenend shaft, seal and both sets of bearings) for £9. The joys of being in the correct line of business to make precision things 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Not Arguing, I wonder if that is the year, not the range of years? Anyway, that is news to me, but I only had the 1999 321, while dad had a 2000 321, for couple years, and it was a well used bike when I bought it. But I could have bought the bike after he replaced the pump parts, however unlikely that was I think he would have said so when I bought it. The Pro engine, just FYI the shafts were supposed to be hardened and chromed, (I think?) but the hardening was sub par. I think by 2009 they finally got them done right? the seal would actually chew a groove in the shaft, about 7 months to a year, and the kit isn't cheap anymore, like near $100 USD. Nope, no arguing here either. We are both just trying to help others which I find to be one of the great things about this forum and trials riders in general. A happy and helpful lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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