billyt Posted September 26, 2013 Report Share Posted September 26, 2013 (edited) Hoggy Bummer about the oil. Here is the spec. Notice the "RS" on the bottle it stands for Reduced Slippage. According to THe Castrol Rep I spoke to. Good luck. you want to go with as lower viscosity as possible. It took one flush with this stuff for a few a few hours and an other dump with a new bottle to feel the full results. Your experience may be different. CASTROL POWER RS RACING 4T ULTIMATE POWER AND PERFORMANCE Castrol Power RS Racing with Trizone Technology™ is a premium-quality, full synthetic 4-stroke motorcycle oil designed to ensure maximum power and performance, even under the most demanding riding conditions. Its anti-friction formulation is proven to increase acceleration compared to conventional motorcycle oils. BENEFITS Race-derived technology for maximum engine acceleration Extreme high-temperature air-cooled and water-cooled engine performance Excellent shear stability to prevent viscosity breakdown Superior high-speed engine protection to help extend engine life Outstanding oil consumption and control, gearshift quality and wet-clutch performance <a name="7282110"> SPECIFICATIONS API SERVICE: Exceeds API SL JASO (T903): JASO MA-2 VISCOSITY: SAE 5W-40 // 10W-40 // 10W-50 PDS/MSDS Edited September 26, 2013 by billyt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shyted Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 Glad to see there's some rational logic going on out there. Process of ellimination is the only way to sort things out properly . Brill post . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 (edited) Hmmm tough to find the 5W-40 around here. I worked over a set of spare Rev3 plates last night that I'm going to try in my '13. Thinking about the difference between the new thicker clutch pack and the older clutch pack I wonder if reduced clearance between the plates while the clutch is disengaged is causing my hydraulic drag as per Billy's musings. Took points last weekend from the occasional "whisky clutch". Took more from lack of talent but that's another problem. Edited October 9, 2013 by dan williams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/putting-the-simple-back-into-viscosity/ Lots of tasty info here in one article. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 (edited) Eeeee I put the '08 clutch pack In the '13 last night. Rode the last event of the season today. The reduced pack height and the flipped around washers reduced pull and the clutch was soooo good. The experts like the quicker clutch but it's no bargain for us duffers. Also managed to do something I've never done before even in the Senior bunny class. Cleaned the day. Edited October 28, 2013 by dan williams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoggyf Posted October 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 Clutch is back in bits tonight, was going to order a master cylinder rebuild kit but was told by lambkins to try roughing up the steel plates so thought I'd try that. I've now found that on the basket there are ridges so the plates cant move freely. Next problem is to get the basket out, I don't have an impact gun so will have to improvise and make a clutch holder before Sunday, hopefully if I can get the basket out and clean up the edges that should improve things massively. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0007 Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 I'm not sure how needing a master rebuild relates to roughing up the steel plates If you squeeze the lever and the clutch fails to disengage you could have air or a faulty master, but a faulty master is unlikely If the steel plates are polished that could only potentially cause slippage Re assemble the clutch and measure how much the pressure plate moves when you squeeze the lever Plates don't really move away from each other, they are like a brake in that they simply run zero clearance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southwester Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 Clutch is back in bits tonight, was going to order a master cylinder rebuild kit but was told by lambkins to try roughing up the steel plates so thought I'd try that. I've now found that on the basket there are ridges so the plates cant move freely. Next problem is to get the basket out, I don't have an impact gun so will have to improvise and make a clutch holder before Sunday, hopefully if I can get the basket out and clean up the edges that should improve things massively. I tried removing the clutch housing nut but its done up super tight, had the clutch holding tool and hammer on ratchet in desperation but the little faffer wouldn't budge I ended up going to the tire garage and he spun it off in 2 seconds job done with no damage I would go for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoggyf Posted October 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 What's the torque figure for the centre clutch nut and individual springs?? Fabricated a clutch holder and removed it, not to bad to undo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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