ric h Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 My 2011 tr280i is an awesome bike.The only negatve thing about it is it's reluctance to start as easily as other brands are.It's a lot better with the 9v kit and the proper mapping and tuning,but it's still not as good as it could be imho. Has anyone ever entertained the idea of putting another base gasket in it to lower compression? (i know it would be a lot of work and another tuning session) The motor has power that a world class rider is capable of using.I don't fill those shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 (edited) "Do I need the power of a (insert siz bike here)?" is a bit of a loaded question. According to many we club level riders don't need anymore power than what an 80cc or 125cc engine would provide (but that would be no fun). Main question is do you like the way the bike rides/reacts etc..? If you like everything else about the bike but starting is too much hassle then maybe the base gasket option is a worthwhile option. On edit: I have no experience with Ossa so my opinion may be crap. Edited October 27, 2013 by zippy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 Apparently on the 2014 bikes they have fitted a new starter assist system but I do not know anything about how it works yet. A couple of weeks ago I injured my knee and reverted to the old 12 v battery pack mod which I always thought made starting easier than the 9 v version, not sure if you are familiar with that system ric? Basically you replace the capacitor with a battery pack made of 10 rechargeable aa or aaa size batteries ( I use aaa size to make the pack more compact with no noticeable difference) and have a switch that pre charges the fuel pump, the 9 v system only puts a charge through the ecu I believe so you still have to kick to charge the pump using the 9v system. Also a lot is down to kick technique, mine is typically crap ut I see plenty of ossa riders who have no trouble at all starting theirs or my bike. Anyone with knowledge of how the new system works on th 2014 bikes pleAse jump in and let us know o it works and any benefits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ric h Posted October 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 Interesting.I'll have to look into the 12v system.Know nothing about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 I am also trying to find details on the 2014 system and how it works, not sure if available yet from the importer, or how to make your own Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 (edited) Another thought would be to fit a flywheel weight, the extra mass should spin the engine easier on the kick stroke Edited October 27, 2013 by canada280i Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay_lael Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 I had tried the 9v with a button, on my 2013 factory 300. It made no difference to starting that I could notice. I fitted the bike with a 12v and ground supply via a 12 volt battery for working on Montesa 4rt. It plugs right in to the tail light connector, thus powers up the ecm and all. I found the fuel pump is energized for a brief moment when the battery is connected. What also happens on the 300 racing, is the injector delivers a priming pulse or series of pulses. The connection of the battery causes this to happen instantly. Pressing the "priming button" will will run the fuel pump, and seems to flood the bike, as does having the battery connected while kicking on the starter arm. If I simply connect the battery momentarily, upon cold start, then kickstart the bike, it lights off in 3 kicks. When hot, it's a crapshoot. Sometimes one kick, sometimes three. I never use the battery except on cold starts after an overnight sit. So it's possible the 300 has had the software changed, to cause this momentary priming injection as soon as voltage reaches a certain threshold. The net result is, the bike is difficult to start. What I have decided is that this bike works so damn good that I will happily live with it's shortcomings. Sorry if this is off topic, but the question has been asked so there's my opinion on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 Jay, this sounds like what I spent all day figuring out, any chance of a pic or2, especially the lighting connector so I know which it is. So, just to get this right, you have the 12v connected via a kill type button, similar to the old 9v system, when you press it briefly it charges the ecu and primes the fuel pump, you then kick it and away you go, but you have to press te button to charge the system, it like the old 12v which charged every time you pressed the kick starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay_lael Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 I do not have the "hot start button" hooked up right now. I simply unplugged the tail light, rerouted the tail light connector (bike side) to a location where I could get ahold of it. It's zip tied to my left frame rail. The OE tail light connector and wires have been attached to my 12 volt rechargable battery, via some long red and black wires, so when you connect it, the entire electrical system is powered up. BTW you may have noticed the bike's power supply is at about 14 volts when the engine is running. This momentary application of 12 volts seems to not only prime the fuel pump, but also seems to inject fuel. I suspect it is engineered to do so. Leaving the 12 volt connected actually seems to cause the bike to start hard and run too rich at first. I wish we could get real info on this system, but since it is shrouded in secrecy, we will have to figure things out for ourselves. I have access to a lab scope, so at some point I will have more solid info on how this damn thing really is engineered to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
437 Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Hi guys, I have recently acquired a nice 2013 model which has a 9v easy start system fitted. The bike starts OK and think once I have managed to master the short sharp prod kickstart technique it will be bearable but cant see it ever being on par with my beta, which is a first time starter hot or cold. Having read the war and peace in this forum, I am interested in trying out the 12v battery fix but it seems to me that there appear to be two distinctly different approaches to this - a)12v battery switched on and left for whole trial or b)12v battery boost via a switch just to aid starting. I have researched 12v batteries and there appear to be various rechargeable options in nicd, li-ion and NiMH, so what are folks using?? and what sort of mAh capacity should i need?? If someone would be willing to clearly set out what works and how, it would be a really big help to me and looking at this thread, no doubt others too. All help really appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 The standard 12v option ossa first investigated was a pack that replaced and acted as the capacitor, and that was controlled by a switch. the downside of this system was that everytime you turned it on or moved the kickstarter the sytem would be re-charged and the pump re-pressurized leading to potential flooding in some cases. although not yet confirmed, I think the new easy start system is a 12v system that is just a starter aid that precharges the system after a momentary press of a button on the handlebars, like the 9v system - the deifference being that the 12v system also charges the fuel pump as well as the ECu which is all the 9v system does. The 9v system definitely works better if yo uuse a highpower battery such as an energizer lithium. From the looks of the new part on the 2014 ossa's the battery would have to be a rechargeable version which means that there must be a constant power supply to recharge the battery, this is think must come from one of the other circuits with the lighting circuit being favorite. the charge would be placed into the ecu and fuel pump by a quick press of the button, this eliminates the constant recharging of the original 12v system eveytime you move the kickstarter. Once the bike fires up the capacitor simply takes over and the 12v battery receives its re-charge from the light circuit or another power source. I have tested this theory with the exception of the recharge circuit and the momentary push of the button and charge of the fuel system does work. Anyone with a 2014 feel free to chime in with any additional details as to how the new easy start works on your bike. Apparently the new system will be available as a retrofit on pre-2014 bikes but cost and delivery date are not available in Canada at this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
437 Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Thanks Canada, that's really helpful. Think will try the energiser lithium and also might give a 12v battery in place of the 9v a whirl and see how it goes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 I made my pack from AAA size batteries instead of AA as originally supplied by ossa, less mah but as it is always being recharged by the bike it does not matter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus54 Posted November 4, 2013 Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 My 2014 Explorer starts 2-3 kicks for cold (it was 37 degrees this morning ) and the bike starts easily when warm. I will sometimes push the kill button briefly to start it when warm if I'm in a tricky location. I'm not sure it it make a it start easier when hot or not, but hasn't burnt anything either. 95% of the time it is one kick when warm. The only time it isn't one kick is if I give it a half hearted kick. If I start it like I did my old GasGas, it fires right . The bike seems to be getting easier to start all the time (I up to about 15 hours). I have access to lots of test gear also (I'm an electronics tech ) but I haven't hooked anything is to the bike yet. I was told pressing the button charges the capacitor- if the bike used the capacitor to smooth out the power then that makes sense. I went out for a 40 mile trails ride today through so nastily roots, ruts, rocks, hill etc. bike was great! Worked realy, really well for that sort of trail . Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkmr1 Posted December 7, 2013 Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 This link details my solution. there was a bit of fabrication involved unfortunately. Bike normally starts first or second kick now. I also have the choice of either the 12v solution or the capacitor. I imagine that this is the caveman version of what OSSA has done on the 2014 models? http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/44770-tr280i-in-matt-carbon-white-pearl/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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