wobblenorbed Posted January 4, 2014 Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 Just remember just because it is a `new` kit does not mean it is actually the correct specs. Still measure the finger height. If it is a little low, some of the friction pad needs to come off. Our importer here always recommended burning it `in` in fourth gear. (Tire against an obstacle and really abusing the clutch) There is also a video floating around of sanding the friction discs. :agreed: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted January 4, 2014 Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 Just remember just because it is a `new` kit does not mean it is actually the correct specs. Still measure the finger height. If it is a little low, some of the friction pad needs to come off. Our importer here always recommended burning it `in` in fourth gear. (Tire against an obstacle and really abusing the clutch) There is also a video floating around of sanding the friction discs. My experience also. The finger height is the defining measurement, rather than the clutch pack width, which is an approximate. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddie1 Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 I have a 2002 Pro and had similar problems with the clutch. After doing lots of different things this is what I now do if I have not ridden the bike for a week or two. I take the master cylinder top off. Flick the clutch lever very quickly but shorts strokes alternating with slow long strokes. Sure enough some air bubbles start to rise up. After these clear the clutch lever stroke feels normal I refit the cap and the bike is good to go. The system does not leak any fluid and all joints are tight so why it should need this bleed after being standing I don't know. Note I do this even whenever I bleed the system, even if I have pushed fluid up from the bleed nipple on the case and get an excellent clutch. Best bit is it is free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 I have a 2002 Pro and had similar problems with the clutch. After doing lots of different things this is what I now do if I have not ridden the bike for a week or two. I take the master cylinder top off. Flick the clutch lever very quickly but shorts strokes alternating with slow long strokes. Sure enough some air bubbles start to rise up. After these clear the clutch lever stroke feels normal I refit the cap and the bike is good to go. The system does not leak any fluid and all joints are tight so why it should need this bleed after being standing I don't know. Note I do this even whenever I bleed the system, even if I have pushed fluid up from the bleed nipple on the case and get an excellent clutch. Best bit is it is free. Generally the clutch system will not "suck" air as it is usually under pressure. What can happen, and it's not uncommon, is that the rubber boot at the M/C will get torn, loose or for the earlier models gets enough brake fluid (DOT 3,4,5.1) on it to deform and allow fine grit to enter into the piston bore. This will wear the o-ring and piston (like grinding compound), which will allow a little air to pass by the o-ring under the slight vacuum it experiences at times and wear the outer lip of the piston seal. As the bore of the M/C can/will be worn to a slight taper, eventually the outer diameter of the seal will become smaller from wear and not start to seal when traveling down the bore until it reaches a smaller diameter of the taper. This is usually noticed after the bike has not been used for a while as the piston seal lip "relaxes" from the normally curved profile it assumes while in use. Jon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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