chappo Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Good morning, I know its an old subject and I have read the forum entries and seen footage on Utube but..................... I have tightened the timing chain as per instructions, which seems to be well within the wear parameters, by setting the timing marks to TDC so the chain isn't under load, releasing the 14 mm locknut, removing the 10 mm nut on top and pulling up on the tensioner rod and tightening up again. Fine..........fired up, sounds great until you load it with revs and it appears to release itself somehow. THE QUESTION.......the tensioner rod has a bugle type head to it ( by the way this is free and not stuck it will push up and down ), once you pull it up what holds it in place as I've looked inside the locknut which appears to have nothing inside to hold onto the tensioner rod. Excuse me for being thick, am I missing something or is the bike missing something, just waiting for a manual to arrive and I have an event tomorrow and wanted to try and fix it before then if possible. Regards. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mont315 Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 (edited) I take it you have had the engine running whilst you have tried to adjust it ?? Edited January 11, 2014 by mont315 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappo Posted January 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Yes, I've tried it with the engine running and not running, same result, it just seems to lose tension, like I said there doesn't seem to be anything in the locking nut to hold the rod in place to keep the tension. I could understand it if there was an eccentric or jaws that clamped the lock nut onto the tensioner rod to keep the tension but there isn't. As I said the head of the tensioner rod has a bugle type head and the inside of the lock nut is just hollow . I,m wondering if the locknut is missing something or the wrong one???? Thanks anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4stroke Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 You don't have to remove the small screw (10mm spanner) The chain should auto adjust when the larger screw (14mm spanner) is loosened. The mechanism is spring loaded. Two wedges grip the centre rod in position when the screw is nipped up. The book tells you do this with the engine ticking over but it can be done with engine off. With engine running, slacken large screw, chain noise should reduce, re-tighten screw. done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tltel Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Hi. I had a similar problem with mine a while ago, the chain was very noisy even after doing the sdjustment procedure, I removed the fly wheel to take a look at the bottom of the adjuster to make sure it was doing what it should, i found a hair line crack in the flexible part of the tensioner that runs on the chain, after replacing this part I have a quiet engine again. You should really change the fixed chain guide too but this requires the head to be removed so that bit can wait for now. By chaniging this part you can also check the adjust locking wedges are present and correct. TLTEL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappo Posted January 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Thanks guys, I,m interested in the two wedges that hold the tensioner rod in place, should they be in the locknut or attached to the tensioner rod because that would make absolute sense, something to keep the rod in place. I must be missing those wedges!! Are they shown in the manual. Thanks to you both and I,ll also check for cracks in the tensioner. Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4stroke Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 (edited) The wedges sit below the screw, so when the rod is pushed up by the spring it is locked in position by the wedges being squeezed around it. The rod itself should be parallel for the wedges to grip onto. Look at item No 221281194796 on ebay Edited January 11, 2014 by 4stroke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappo Posted January 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Thank you 4stroke, so the wedges you are talking about are in the lower casing where the tensioner bar sits, not at the top by the locknut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig10 Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 (edited) The wedges are in a hollow in the casing, parts 10 (2 off) below the nut 11 with the 14mm head. You slacken nut 11 which releases the wedges 10, the spring 5 pushes lever 4 up, forcing rod the rod 6 up. This rod is attached to the bottom of the movable blade 3 which bows out (the top being fixed) so tensioning the chain. Once tensioned, the nut 11 is nipped up, this causes the wedges to grip the rod and hold it. It may be that the wedges are missing or not fitted properly, the angled faces should face each other. If you need parts diagrams, go here http://www.serviceho...om/parts/lookup then navigate your way to Honda models of 1986, scroll down and you'll find the TLR200 there. Craig Edited January 12, 2014 by craig10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappo Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Thanks Craig, I'll see what condition they're in tomorrow, but that answers my question. Many thanks. Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4stroke Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Back to Craigs diagram I think you will find that that ROD is connected to the top of arm 3. Numbers 6,9,10,11,12,14&15 are all located in the top of the engine casing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tltel Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Back to Craigs diagram I think you will find that that ROD is connected to the top of arm 3. Numbers 6,9,10,11,12,14&15 are all located in the top of the engine casing. The rod is actually connected to the bottom of arm 3. TLTEL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig10 Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 This rod is attached to the bottom of the movable blade 3 which bows out (the top being fixed) so tensioning the chain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfo speedracer Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 The top of part #6 is threaded, if you remove the bolt #15 you can screw the end of a spoke into the top of the rod, crank up the bike loosed # 11 and pull up on the spoke, retighten # 11 and you are done. This is the way we did it when I worked at the Honda stealership. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappo Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Hi Craig , I've removed the locknut and found that the wedges are locked in position they are stuck fast. I'll probably order a new one as I'm sure they should have a small amount of movement prior to the locknut being tightened. Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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