wayne509 Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 (edited) Stupid question time .... How on earth do you remove the ECU from a 2013 onwards TR280 ( the ecu is mounted down by the cylinder ) . Do I need to remove the radiator first or am I missing something plainly obvious? Would like to make sure the plug is dry and fill with electrical grease but it's not nearly as simple as it first appears Edited February 13, 2014 by wayne509 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialtrial Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Cant help you, but thanks for the tip. I am going to do that to my explorer. I did it to all the other connections but forgot about the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 It is a cow of a job. No need to touch radiator. Take off the radiator top cover to get a better view down from the top. Unstrap the rubber support that holds firm the ECU. Remove the plug in connection harness to the ECU and then wiggle and jiggle it out, it is a very very tight fit. I replaced the high compression head with an early head and also removed my 2013 ECU to replace it with a 2012 ECU so I could use the more gentle maps.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne509 Posted February 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 removed my 2013 ECU to replace it with a 2012 ECU so I could use the more gentle maps.. Thanks for the info Steveo So there is a difference in the ECU's? Didn't realise that. I thought the same ECU has been used from the start and they can all take any map Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 (edited) what sort of money was the new ECU Steveo ? I'm looking at a clean factory 300 but just concerned it may be a handfull, i have heard the 2012 heads are the best ones to fit if you want to calm a bike down Edited February 14, 2014 by jsp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 They are expensive.....In the range of $700 for the ECU and a couple of hundred for the normal head. Best to exchange with a more experienced rider on a 2012 model and do a swap of the 2013 head and ECU for his 2012 parts. I tried just removing the high comp head first, but still more aggression that I wanted off the bottom, so I needed to get the 2012 ECU fitted as well to accept the mapping I was comfortable with. Best of both worlds new bike familiar power I was very happy with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy1 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Hi there, it is not necessary to change the ECU. The injection maps for the new ECUs are available for the "old" ECUs also. 2011 and 2012 OSSA bike models had the same type of cylinder head. 2013 models had a high comp head (even more than the red one that they sell as special part) To calm the bike better a 2011,2012 head. But then you will have to change the map. By the way, the old ECU's can be converted into new ECU's... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 I would certainly try the 300i before makinig any changes, the only thing I did was put a slow action throttle on mine, I don't find it any more of a handful that my old 2011, sure it has more power but you soone get used to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus54 Posted June 9, 2017 Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 On my Explorer I needed to raise the radiator just a bit or it would not clear the fan mount. It just wasn't coming out. Fortunately, it is easy to raise, just drain coolant, unclip the lower hose to water pump and push it up a little. The 300 Factory actually looks like a little more room. I fit an 11 tooth countershaft sprocket to the Factory to match the one on my Explorer. It really helped for me and my use. Plus then they react a lot closer to the same. I have a bunch of hours on the Explorer and ride it most of the time, so I don't want to figure it out differently every time. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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