lotus54 Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 The easy start on my. 2014 is much larger. What did you use to plug the fuel quick disconnect to keep it filling with dirt? I was thinking if sourcing another to use as a 'dummy' that would be plugged off. I pulled the subframe/tank from my yesterday- yes, only. A few minutes. The existing cables look long enough I could maybe put the Easystart on the handlebar mount or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialtrial Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Hmmm, from the parts manual that easy start system looks a lot like the capacitor. Have a picture? I lopped off the mounting brackets on the capacitor before tucking it under the headlight. Regaurdless, if you dont have the battery under the headlight, then you should have a bunch of room to mount the easy start black box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus54 Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 It is darn crowded behind the headlamp- the Easystart on mine looks larger than your pic. I'll take a pic of it, it is probably 3" deep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus54 Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Here is the easy start on my 2014 And all the stuff behind the headlamp, no way to fit this there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendrik Posted March 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 I take some Plastik film over the fuel plug an fixed it with an elastic strap, my Easy start is now on the right Frame side behind the kickstart, fixed with a cable tie, can make pics this afternoon.... Told with my dealer last Weekend about the easy start Problem, he says when the battery pack is mounted, the easy start can be removed ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus54 Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 I found a KTM kit that includes a plug that snaps into the bike side connector and a nice rubber tube seal that goes over the one that is with the tank. Super easy and will ensure stuff stays clean. I'll post up part number- my KTM dealer knew exactly what I needed (didn't even need to look it up) and had it on the shelf (PA Power, Port Angeles) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus54 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Here is the part number for the KTM plug kit KTM Wash cap set 81212016000 $17 US list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viper Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 Guys just seeing if anyone can help me out here. I havethe 2014 explorer bought it brand new. The bike only has 7km on it from goingup and down the block. I had heard the bikes were hard to start so b4 I took it home from the dealership I tried kicking to my surprise 2 sharp jabs the bike started right up. I took it home and the bike wont start. I mustve kicked it for 3 days straight off and on everytime i went in the garage i kicked it.... So called the dealership he said check the plugs so I did. The plug was black and soaked so mustve flooded. I changed a new plug still wouldnt start. My buddy who had a atv gave me a tow and after going a block and half on 5th gear the bike bumped started. We could smell harsh fuel coming from the bike anyways we'll get back to that. So I rode it around for about 5mins no problems at all bike ran great so I turned off the bike. Waited a minute and second kick it fired up rode it around again. Did the the samething turned it off waited a bit sat on the bikegave it a half ass kick and couldnt believe how easy it started. Turned off the bike waited a minuted then I started to smell fuel from the bike again.... wentto kick it and it wont start again!!! What can be the problem it seems like the engines flooding itself.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 (edited) That sure sounds like a flooding problem. I don't have much specific knowledge of the Ossa but that is not right. The strong fuel smell leads me to believe there is a faulty component in the EFI. My first thought is take it back to the Dealer and get them to fix it. With only 7km it surely must be under some sort of warranty. However, let's explore a couple easy things first. 1) Starting technique I have an '05 Montesa 4RT that also has EFI. For the 4RT to start, it requires the throttle to be completely closed. I mean, keep your hand completely off the throttle. Even when it does catch, keep that hand away. Giving it even the slightest twist of the throttle will confuse the EFI and it runs terribly if you can get it started. I have learned to start it and let it warm up until the fan comes on before touching the throttle. 2) Throtlle cable adjustment Check your throttle cable is fully seated in the housing. Mine got pulled out just a little one time and it would not start. I cleaned out the housing and adjusted a put just a small dab of silicone glue to keep it from moving out. Now the harder stuff. And I repeat - this is a brand new bike. The dealer should make it right. 3) Faulty injector A bad injector could leak fuel into the intake very similar to a sticking float valve on a carbureted bike. This fault would not usually result in a strong fuel smell until you start kicking when the fuel gets pushed through and out the exhaust. 4) Leaking injector hose or connection A leaking hose will let the fuel out to the atmosphere so you could smell it without even kicking the starter. When an EFI system is shut off, there is pressure inside the hoses and injector. If it leaks out, there will be fuel odor and there will not be adequate fuel pressure to start the bike again until the fuel pump builds the pressure up again. 5) Faulty EFI electronics The injectors need a signal from the electronics to open and allow fuel into the intake. From reading this thread, it seems that OSSA has some sort of battery to power the injection pump and electronics for the injector signal. Because you have brand new bike, I think this is a dealer issue to fix for you. *** Good luck and let us know how this works out. Edited April 5, 2014 by thats_a_five Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialtrial Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 (edited) Tell us your **exact** procedure that you are using to try start it. How much throttle Do you put it to TDC How hard of a kick Edited April 5, 2014 by trialtrial Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 (edited) My "exact" procedure for starting: Cold engine 1) Select neutral gear, clutch in (safety tip I always use), starter lever out. 2) push the lever through stroke once 3) push lever through second time a little faster. Note _ did not say "kick" it fast like starting a modern 2 stroke. I do not worry about finding TDC or other fiddling about. Bike usually starts on second kick. 4) once the engine starts, I put down the side stand and let it idle while I gear up. 5) Once I am have my gear on and the bike is warm I ride off, or shut it off to wait for my buddies. If needed, I shut it off until ready to ride. Hot engine 1) clutch in, start lever out 2) push through quickly. 3) ride off Notice: I Cold or Hot I do not even touch the throttle until the bike is warm. I often start in gear when warm but if it takes more than 3 tries, I will reach with my hand for neutral. I have noticed that when I stall the bike it can be harder to restart. So, I always use kill switch to shut it off. I do not stall it in gear with foot on rear brake like I see some riders do. FYI, I have seen Lotus54 on his 2014 Ossa Explorer and it starts well for him. So he is definitely more expert on that bike than I. Edited April 5, 2014 by thats_a_five Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viper Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 I use no throttle just a hard straight jab standing on the pegs with bike leaned up against a wall. But when I had it going I can even be sitting on the bike and give it a good jab and itll start easily... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus54 Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 My method for 2014 Explorer 280 Cold: Get a place where I can stand left foot high. Neutral Key on Push kill button a couple of seconds Take up slack in kicker NO Throttle! Give a good hard kick ( use weight) It will usually start two- three kicks. Hot: No throttle Good strong kick. Almost always first kick, Fuel/oil Chevron premium (ethonal around here) Motorex full synth 100:1 Dirty plug and a lot harder to start. I run one hotter step plug for this weather (havnt had It in summer yet) Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy1 Posted April 6, 2014 Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 Hi Viper, the most common starting problems are due to the version of the map or the tps adjustment I'm sure you don't have the ossa software... so yo can ask your dealer for: - version of the injection map: there are some updates regarding maps. -tps adjustment: the standard value of the TPS voltage is set at 0.6 V (0.6 V ±0.04 v). Idle at 1500 rpm Your dealer should check: 1. Check the amount of Fuel 2. Check the air filter - Throttle body -dirty air filter? - air by-pass pre-drilled hole can get clogged (butterfly of the throttle body) 3. Check the spark plug -Older versions of injection maps can produce certain conditions of enrichment in the air-fuel ratio. -poor calibration of the fuel - oil ratio mix can cause carbon deposits on the the spark plug 4. Diagnose faults with Check K-scan (ossa software) 5. Reset TPS Adjustments 6. Verification of the cylinder compression 7. Verification of the woodroof of the flywheel -A torn or broken woodroof, will offset all the ECU referencs about piston position 8. Check crankshaft seal -If we have any leak on this system, we would have a rich condition. 9. Check the fuel pump -With a fuel pressure gauge connected we must obtain a value of 3.5 ± 0.3 kg/cm2 value. 10. Checking reed valve -A bad reed valve sealing produces a rich condition. Particular symptom of red valve trouble: fuel smell on the air filter case. 11. Checking the cylinder head gasket 12. Checking the cylinder base gasket 13. Checking alternator - Pick-up -With K-scan (ossa software) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialtrial Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 Viper: I 100% agree with andy1. That_a_five - even though 4RT and TR280 are EFI - they are very different bikes and start much differently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.