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Play In Steering Head Bearings


southwester
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I've noticed a rock so to speak when applying the front break on my rev 3, on inspection with the front wheel straight and off the ground with the bike on a stand I can notice back and forth movement between forks and frame. The nut on top off the yolk was loose so I tightened it but has made no difference.

There looks to be another nut beneath the top yolk on top of there frame that requires a special spanner, would that be right?

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Yup , The nut below the top clamp adjusts the bearing preload , and the nut above holds the top clamp in place . remove the top clamp , adjust/repack bearings , install top clamp , tighten top nut first , then the fork tube pinch bolts ...

Glenn

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Very common. The bearing races tend to settle a little further into the aluminum headstock after a while. Glenn's correct. Loosen the fork pinch bolts and drop the front end, pull the nut off the top triple clamp and pull it off. Undo the nut that holds the stem bearing assy together. Pull the bearings and regrease. Reassemble the bearing stem assy. Be careful with the torque as it's all aluminum and very easy to strip. The bearing should turn freely without binding with no play. When you put the top triple clamp on the stem check for play between the stem and clamp. This is another fairly common issue with the Beta. I've had it on two. My fix is to build up the stem with teflon plumbers tape. It will deform to fill the space but stay trapped by the two stem nuts. It's also easy to remove and cheap. Once the top clamp is in position put the front end back into the triple clamps,line it all up then snug the top stem bolt and fork pinch bolts.

I've done this with the forks on the bike on a stand but it usually shifts while working on it causing me to drop tools and parts as I lunge for the bike and end up in the undignified full stretch holding the bike with one hand, flailing with the other, while knocking stuff over garage comedy routine.

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"Quote: I've done this with the forks on the bike on a stand but it usually shifts while working on it causing me to drop tools and parts as I lunge for the bike and end up in the undignified full stretch holding the bike with one hand, flailing with the other, while knocking stuff over garage comedy routine.":

While it would be fun to watch you do that, here's a tip. Whenever I am going to do much work on the bike while it is on a bike stand, I clamp the skid pan to the top of the bike stand with 2 C-clamps. If I am working on the front, I load the bike farther back on the stand before clamping. Reverse for working on the rear end. My comedy routine of flailing, hanging onto the bike with one had, etc happens in the sections now, not in the workshop! :chairfall:

Edited by thats_a_five
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Thanks for the advise I've just carried it out, I dropped the forks right out of the way and tapped axle through so I could inspect and grease bottom bearing.

Bearings look to be in good shape as in no or little water has made its way in, steering column nut (my special tool was a pair of 12" Cresent grips, thanks for those USA) on top of stem below triple clamp was hand loose so this may of factored in to the problem! The cover beneath the nut looks as tough it has had some sort of black sealant round it at some point but I have packed it out with grease until it was oozing out when tightening.

Dan I have the problem you refer to above where the top clamp is loose around the stem, you say use ptfe tape to pack out but that stuff is soft as s**t isn't it? and would squiggle out of the way in no time wouldn't it?

Good tip about the clamps as well I doubt I would of thought of that!

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I thought that about the teflon tape too. I used it on my '08 as a temporary fix but it held up for four years so I used it on my '13 with no problem so far. Teflon does coldflow but I think the upper and lower nuts on the stem give it nowhere to go so it just stays put and acts as a high viscosity shock absorber. The price is certainly right. It won't bind or score the aluminum and you can still loosen and tweak the forks if necessary.

Edited by dan williams
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I believe the tool you need is called a steering wheel puller. It can bought at an auto parts store such as Napa and will come with the threaded bolts you need. I believe they are 8mm

Sorry

Wrong topic. Was meant for Beta 250/270 flywheel post.

Log-in redirect problem.

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