nitjay - hrc Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Hi all, After over 4 years away from the sport (& this forum!) I'm looking to get my 2004 SY250 back up to speed again. It's been covered up in the garage for the last 4 years and not ridden. Predictably it started second kick and runs fine but there are a couple of niggles I'd like to ask about sorting out. 1: Rear tyre, before I garaged it, I had the rear wheel rim tape replaced as it was leaky. The leak seems to be back so I'm hoping to put an inner tube in. Is it difficult to get the tyre on and off the rim and do I need to do anything odd to use a rear innertube on the bike? 2: Clutch, it's fine but slips a little in 5th/6th if I remember rightly. How hard are they to replace or is it best to leave it to a professional - If so, can any bike garage do it? Or should I find a specialist? Can't wait to get her going again any help on the above really appreciated. Particularly the inner tube as that's stopping me from riding. Thanks, NJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Most rims with the strap leak a little. You should check it before every ride. If you can ride all day without adding air that is normal. You can put a tube in, but the tire can slip and rip the tube. Kind of going backwards in purpose. The Dunlop 803 seems to hold a bead better if you go to a tube. Clutch is pretty straight forwardto change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wobblenorbed Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Please don`t fit a tube without using a rimlock it wont work. If you fit a new rimband correctly then it shouldn`t leak. There is a video on you tube on how to do this. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitjay - hrc Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Thanks for the replies! Unfortunately it won't last very long before going down. The problem with the rear wheel is that I believe the rear wheel needs replacing as where the rimband fits is slightly coroded in one place and it's causing it not to be snug. (From what I remember) I won't be putting the bike through much strain, just want it to potter about one sunday a month or so on. Replacing the rear wheel is expensive - but do all of the OEM rear wheels have the same dimensions generally? Has anyone used the rimlock method on the rear wheel? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
totty79 Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Try a sealant like goop or slime. My rear wheel has corrosion from someone using silicone in it, after half a bottle of goop it's held 4psi for 6 months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wobblenorbed Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 If you don't use a rimlock the Tyre will rip the valve from the tube. You will need to drill the rim opposite the valve as per the front wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breagh Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Can't say I've ever had a problem with "tyre creep" on a tubeless , wheel/tyre with a tube,never fitted a rim lock. As for the clutch,check the adjustment at the lever and slave cyl to make sure there is no pressure on the clutch when disengaged. The clutches on these bikes are very robust so there is a chance this may be causing the slippage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Thoroughly wire brush and wash the rim - power wire brush best Get a valve from an innertube or nut fixed car type and fasten it securely into the rim with sealant, Smear the groove where the rim tape should be with a good layer of sealant instead of using a rim tape. For sealant use sikaflex windscreen fitting sealant or some other neutral (non acidic) sealant like leadmate gutter seal. If you get leakage where the tyre fits the rim spray it with contact adhesive just before inflating the tyre. Toolstation do good adhesive cheap I know the above may sound a bit like a codge but it generally works better than new rim tapes or tubes on old or corroded rims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 Wurth makes a tire bead sealer that tire shops use to seal rims. You can brush it on the spoke nipples prior to installing rim band. It does not stick hard like some other sealers, you can roll it off like a bugger if you ever need to. Stuff works well. You still need a good tire man to do all the cleaning and prep and testing, or you will beat yourself to death! These trials rims are sort of a specialty, do you have friends in the game? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitjay - hrc Posted March 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 Thanks guys. I'm going to check to see whether it will hold trialing pressure for a day. If not I think I will get the wheel refurbished. Cheers as well for the tip on the clutch, I'll check whether there is some pressure on the slave cylinder - how long would you expect the clutches to last on these bikes with normal trials usage? Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmike1961 Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 (edited) Leaky rim. This worked a treat on my scorpa rear rim. http://www.beta-uk.com/images/stories/additional_pdfs/2013helpsheet.pdf Read the bit about the rear wheel seal. Edited April 20, 2014 by bigmike1961 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fulltilt Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 (edited) FYI; I had problems with a leaky rear wheel too. I tried the tube and rim lock method, but it DOES NOT WORK! On these low tire pressures, the TUBE will walk around inside the tire until it rips out the valve stem. It was also a problem in MX. Back in the day, we would let all the air out and roll the bike backwards until the valve stem was straight again. On my Gas Gas, I had so many flats, I finally got a new rim. My biggest problem was that every time it went flat, I wouldn't notice it right away and dent the rim. The rim had so many dents, the tire could be changed without any special tools. I also tried to seal the spokes with silicone sealant, but that didn't last either. Now I have a leaky bead problem with my 2012 Beta and I will NEVER try a tube again. I put bead sealer on it, but that just gets rubbed away as the tire WILL move on the rim, unless you run over 10 pounds air pressure. I might try "dadof2"s idea and use window sealer, that stuff is wicked sticky! I won't look forward to the next tire change!! I used "fix-a-flat" on an old tire with 4 sidewall leaks and 4 rim leaks and it actually held with 10 pounds pressure. But as soon as I went to 4 pounds pressure, the tire flexed too much and all the leaks came back. Edited May 31, 2015 by fulltilt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmike1961 Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 (edited) My tyre is still good after the SSDT advise - holds pressure for a trial with no problem - even at 3 psi for a muddy trial but goes flat between times. I see my previous link no longer works! Here it is courtesy of Motomerlin. Beta-Evo-2011-SSDT-Tips.pdf Edited July 29, 2015 by bigmike1961 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbelly Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 I stuck a tube in my 05 rear wheel and ran a tubeless IRC with absolutley no problems at all. As long as it pops on to the rim properly I can see no reason for it slip any more than if it had no tube. It is still a bloody tight fit. Only my humble opinion/experiencee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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