d250b Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 (edited) Been stripping down the bike for the first time for an overhaul and noticed this problem with the front wheel alignment. Part of the hub has gouged out some of the lower fork leg. Its spins completely free so the bearings appear fine and it looks like all the parts are in place according to the parts manual I have (perhaps missing a split washer for the spindle nut?). The first photo shows the gouge and the second the apparently complete spindle. The only thing I can see about the spindle components is the larger of the 2 spacers is flared slightly on each end which you can just make out in the photo. When I spun the wheel before disassembly it did not have what I would have said was an undue amount of 'buckle', only a wee bit of deviation from true. After I discovered it I reinstalled the wheel and I just can't see how there is a problem. I assumed that when I looked at the parts list I'd find a bit missing but it doesn't look like it!? I just kept going with the strip down so it's all in bits now. Appreciate any ideas as to what's going on. Thanks Just looked again at the parts list, is it possible that the spacers have been mixed up and the bigger one should be on the nut side? although wouldn't that make the problem worse?? Edited May 19, 2014 by d250b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 On a 190, there should be no spacer between the brake plate and fork leg, the only spacer on that side is inside the hub and it is a top hat spacer, the one in the photo isn't. It sits in the bearing oil seal, top hat side facing out and the inside of the brake plated sits against it. The bigger spacer fits on the opposite side, as it is in the photo and sits inside the oil seal between the bearing and the sleeve that fits inside the fork leg. The sleeve should stick out a few mm on the inside of the leg so that when the wheel is fitted it keeps the hub away from the fork leg, although the clearance isn't much, it sits very close. The spacer on the left in your photo is wrong for a 190, what front wheel is fitted - can you post a picture as the spindle / spacer arrangement is different for earlier bikes, has someone fitted an earlier wheel? Your front hub should be conical, if it's a full width hub it's from a much earlier model, maybe another bike. The spindle nut also should sit inside the fork leg when fully tight on the correct 190 front end. On the earlier bikes the nut is visible as it sits against the fork leg. The gouge is definitely from a conical hub, but when was it done? It looks old. A problem for a previous owner which no longer exists? Post a photo of your wheel / hub 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 Thanks Woody, here's the picture of the front and I've put in one of the rear wheel too because they are of the same design. I would say that the damage has definitely been done by this wheel/spindle combination as the right hand side of the hub looks like it's been burred by the action of gouging the fork leg; but it's sort of reached a point where the damage is done and it now spins freely when turned by hand. I've studied photos of other 190's but never paid much attention to the wheels/hubs. Cheers David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 The wheel is the correct one, you shouldn't have a spacer between the brake plate and fork, only a top hat spacer on the inside of the brake plate. If you have that spacer between the fork and brake plate, it is pushing the wheel too far over and will have caused the damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 Thanks Woody, that's good news; could see a new set of wheels coming there for a minute I will get the proper spacer sorted for the rebuild and the fork leg is already with the blacksmith to get welded up to repair the damage. I will also renew the larger spacer on the other side since it's not perfect either. Thanks for your help! D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 As a follow up, having seen the condition of the wheels, what would you suggest I should do to tidy them up? I'm not looking for show bike finish but want to get them looking appropriate for the bike once it's got the frame repainted etc. Is there a specialist out there that does them or could it be DIY? Thanks D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 thought i would upload a pic of the fork end now that its been welded and sorted out. very pleased with the outcome and he's also fixed a crack in the crankcase cover and it looks spot on too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted August 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 Rather than start a new thread......... I thought I had sorted my front wheel woes but now as I near the end of the rebuild another problem........... When the steering head and bars are at 90' to the frame i.e straight ahead, the front wheel is pointing off to the right. I have been in the shed for the last 2 hours agonising over this and trying to work out what is wrong but I can't. I've had the wheel off again and back on but I just can't fathom this. i've got the right spacers now, the spindle looks perfectly straight and without tightening up the spindle the wheel spins beautifully on the new bearings. The wheel isn't perfect but the pointing to the right is consistent throughout its rotation so i don't think its a spoke issue? Spindle is original, bearings, spacers and seals all brand new. Fork stanchions are secondhand but just rechromed and checked for straight as part of that process. new steering head bearings too. the stanchions slipped fine into the clamps. Just gone back and taken the wheel off again and photographed it without the wheel, just the spindle. Its still obvious so its not the wheel. any suggestions greatfully appreciated! D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodwheel Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 Loosen all the triple clamp hardware, straddle front wheel and twist handle bars to re-align. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 It looks like you have tightened the triple clamps up with the top one rotated a bit relative to the bottom one. Back off the clamps for the steering head axle and the clamps for the fork tubes and you should be able to move the fork bottoms so that the wheel axle is parallel to the top triple clamp. I suggest you clamp the bottom fork tube clamps first, then the steering axle clamp and top nut, then the top fork tube clamps in that sequence 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Big thanks down under!! another panic over and sorted, did as you suggested and it's spot on now. I just didn't think that it was possible the yokes could be misaligned; i remember thinking when they were installed loosely and sliding in the new stanchions that they would be lined up properly by the stanchions themselves being such a tight fit. every day's a school day thats for sure; many thanks D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodwheel Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 It looks like you have tightened the triple clamps up with the top one rotated a bit relative to the bottom one. Back off the clamps for the steering head axle and the clamps for the fork tubes and you should be able to move the fork bottoms so that the wheel axle is parallel to the top triple clamp. I suggest you clamp the bottom fork tube clamps first, then the steering axle clamp and top nut, then the top fork tube clamps in that sequence Jinx Feetup - same post at same time - spooky! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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