d250b Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 I'd appreciate some further advice and info on my Sherpa 190 please. Photo1 What do you think of the stator in the photo? wire not broken but part of the yellow plastic is. the bike was running prior to strip down but this doesn't look very good does it? I got the right tool to hold the flywheel but there are marks on it to suggest someone's tried to do it without it in the past. There's quite a bit of corrosion on some other parts in there too. Would I be as well changing for electronic ignition when i rebuild? and if so which make is the best? Photo2 The manuals refer to 6 cylinder head studs/nuts. (The old Haynes manual says they should be taken off in strict order but the Bultaco uk manual only mentions tightening them up in strict order). I only have 4 studs (14mm nuts) plus the single 13mm bolt that was on the top engine stay. There is no stud/nut beneath the dummy spark plug; is this right?? Photo3 What's this funny wee bit on the side of the frame at the headstock? (apologies for the monster photos but I've not worked out if it's possible to resize them.) Thank you. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naichuff Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Hi The plastic part is part of the coil former Looks like someone has put somthing in the flywheel to lock it to remove itI would move the condencer next to the HT coil under the tank There should be a bolt in the front hole under the front plug these bolts tend to be stripped by over tightening The funny part on the steering is a lock to lock the steering You seem to be close to me so any problems PM me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boghopper350 Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 These bikes run well on the femsa ignition (points). I have just rebuilt an engine that had a badly corroded ignition, just cleaned everything up well and changed the points and condenser. You can get an exchange l/t coil from in motion if you are worried about the damage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trailie Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 (edited) You might be able to do something with that coil. Basically that wire is enamel coated to insulate each turn from its neighbour. Looking at your photo the wires on the layer below look to have the enamel scratched off and are touching. This would mean they are shorted out at this point, so you have effectively lost turns and generated voltage. To fix it you could try to separate them very carefully where the enamel is damaged with something blunt like a lolly pop stick. Once you have a little gap between turns paint over the scratches with a little paint. Don't worry too much about the twisted shape. If it doesn't work then go with the exchange part. Edited May 21, 2014 by trailie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Thanks for the replies, sounds like I should stick with points rather than going electronic. Is the missing head stud not a big issue? To the uneducated it sounds like it should be quite serious. If I wanted to correct it, is this do-able? Or should. I just leave it??? Nice to know I've got a steering lock! But unfortunately didn't get a key with the bike:-)) D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 You are pretty lucky to not have a leak at the head joint, with that bolt missing/broken. Yes fixing it is likely to be do-able. What is needed to fix it will not be known until you know what the female thread in the barrel is like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted May 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 Thanks for that, thankfully that missing stud just goes into the barrel section. The threads are totally goosed so we just need to find an appropriate insert/helicoil or other to suit. On the plus side the cylinder is perfect, not a mark. I still have to clean off the piston to find out if it's a re-bore but none-the-less it was nice to find it in good shape. bearings seem fine too so i will leave the rest well alone!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted May 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 Naichuff, regarding the condenser, I Know there is a condenser on the stator between the coils but I also have this on the frame forward of the Ht coil and I assumed it was a condenser too?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naichuff Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 Yes that looks like another condencer My 175 Sherpa still runs on points and the condencer moved next to the coil Your wheel problem is common to Bultos my 325 and a250 had similar problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boghopper350 Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 Hopefully not stating the obvious, but some say to put the condensor up on the frame near the ht coil to keep it cooler, therefore helping reliability. I havn't noticed any improvement on my M49 over mounting it in the standard position. It is easier to change or to mount a spare one next to it... just in case tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted May 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 So I seem to have 2 condensers?? the rusty one inside the ignition housing and that other one up behind the steering head? I haven't looked to see if the rusty one is not connected any more and as such has been replaced by the one up above. I've now got it cleaned up a bit and it looks a wee bit better and I think I'll just get an exchange coil to make sure everything is 100%. Over in the crankcase side, theres a large bearing race inside the clutch housing which is retained by a big circlip, I'm assuming that should that be packed with grease once Ive cleaned everything up and am reinstalling? can't find it mentioned in the manual. and would it require any sort of special grease given that there will be oil in there eventually. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naichuff Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 The clutch bearing is not greased but is lubed by the oil in the clutch case Never had any problems with that setup even with road use and very high milage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted May 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Thanks. Got the bearing out and it's goosed anyway. It was very difficult to make out the numbers but I believe it's a 6250, backed up by my measurements and a new SKF one is ordered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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