peter_tenerife Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Gonna give my 2006 a new leash of life, got the engine out after finding the oil was a little cloudy and smelt of petrol (??). What parts do you more experienced 4rt owners recommend changing? its 280cc repsol. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barfy Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 It depends on how much money you want to spend. My order of preference would be: - rings - cam chain - valve seals & guides - can chain guides - valves & springs If you've got the engine out I'd probably do it all because going to the trouble of doing some of the bits "I might as well do them all". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyboxer Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Gonna give my 2006 a new leash of life, got the engine out after finding the oil was a little cloudy and smelt of petrol (??). What parts do you more experienced 4rt owners recommend changing? its 280cc repsol. Regards Has it done a lot of work? or had a hard life? Any exhaust smoke? As said, do as much it needs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shyted Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 (edited) Have you got the manual with your bike ? If not, buy one as they are great and will be the best tool you can buy for the job. It covers everything , even cutting valve seat angles. To quote from the Cummins diesel manual " profit from Knowledge "! Edited May 28, 2014 by shyted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Petrol in oil is often sign of leaking injector or carburation fault, nothing to do with engine at all. I had this when the vacuum operated fuel tap on my Suzuki failed. I would have had a full diagnosis / list of symptoms before removing engine. I have just serviced the top end on a very high mileage 4 stroke engine and all it needed was a couple of thou adjustment of the valve shims and new valve stem oil seals. Valve seats, bores etc were perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mags Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Compression check or a leak-down test first maybe? Bore camera to check cylinder wall, scoring? I know of a 4t in New Zealand has 700 hrs and was taken down to refresh but didn't need it. Barrel, piston kit put back in cupboard. Mags 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_tenerife Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the replies. Any point in changing main bearings, con rod bearings? Bike hasn't had much use, not compared to you guys in the UK! ! I ride now about 10 times a year if that before I owned it, it was used more maybe a fee tines a week by a club level.rider same as men Edited May 28, 2014 by peter_tenerife Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esperovich Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Dont open the engine before compression and leak test! (probably you won't need!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_tenerife Posted May 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Had it open straight away, my dad was mentioning maybe a crank seal gone but surely petrol could only come into the oil from the top of the engine.....(down past the rings) I dont know, these 4t are so much more complicated than a trusty 2t. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shyted Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Peter_tenerife, excessive fuel intake from a leaking injector will wash down the bore with the oil and end up in the crank case and unless the rings /bore are goosed i would not discount that from my diagnosis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_tenerife Posted June 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 How do I know that the injector is leaking? I have also noticed strange blisters on the crank seal, I havent been able to split the engine yet due to limited tool resources... I hope to this week. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shyted Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 There's a test procedure in the manual . The only problem is you would need to crank the motor over therefor have to wait till your re built or provide external fuel pressure via a pump with the fuel system built up,up to the pressure regulator and injector basically .Then observe weather you have a droplet forming .The blisters sound like de-lamination but at best that's a guess. I will pass on the info in a couple of day's as i'm on my way to Norway just now. Ted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 You can leak test an injector with a foot pump with a pressure gauge. Connect foot pump to injector with clear PVC pipe with some petrol in. Keep pump above pipe so petrol does not flow back into pump. Pressurise to 50 PSI. Injector should not leak at this pressure. Note the above is a standard test for car injectors that usually operate at about 40 PSI (3 Bar). Check your RTs injector operating pressure and don't use a test pressure that exceeds it by more than a few PSI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Are you sure the petrol smell came from the oil, not from a nearby rag or petrol can? Do you still have the drain oil? Is it in an open or closed container? Open container the petrol would have evaporated by now and there would be no petrol smell. Some transmission oils have very different smell from engine oil. Don't confuse the trans oil smell with petrol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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