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Beta Evo 250,2010 Clutch Measerment.


welsh beta
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You could also take some fine emery cloth to the steel plates just to deglaze the surface. I think when I've measured fiber plates they were always 2.7mm but not knowing if that was good or bad I just schlepped them back in.

Edited by dan williams
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Thank you Dan,i will try that just before i buy a new clutch.it such a pig to change.no way can i change gear in a middle of a section.i litery have to force it into gear.she was a lot better after the clutch mod but just after one trial she is back the same.i change my oil after every two trial,putoline light gear oil.if i just knew what the size of the pads when they are new that would help a lot.will let you know how i get on.......

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OK I think there's something else going on. Is the clutch behaving properly as a clutch and just the gears are hard to change? Beta's are known to be notchy at best. I think a lot has to do with the long aluminum shifter but the gearbox is nowhere near Japanese MX bike smooth. How is the action of the shifter when done by hand? Does it shift hard in all gears?

Worn pads would exhibit slip in the higher gears but won't affect shifting. We need more info.

Edited by dan williams
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Dan.i've just finish the emery cloth job to the steel plate and yet again a oil change.i took it for a small ride and was a lot better.yes the clutch does work and it the stifness to change the gears that the problem on all gears.yes its essier to change by hand.where are you based Dan,Uk ??

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If you want to see of its clutch drag try this

Clutch pulled in, load up the shifter with your foot like you are trying to find neutral

Keep consistent pressure and press the kill switch

If the trans shifts as soon as the engine stops then it's clutch drag

If it is still hard to shift then it's shift drum or maybe bent shift shaft

I ales hear that the plate holding the pins in the shift drum can be sloppy and add flex to the mechanism

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Dan,jump on that plane and come over to Wales for a holiday/Beta repairs.ha,ha.Google Snowdonia,Wales that where we are.

0007,thanks for your reply.i'm off for a few days holidays now.i'll try your advice a.s.a.p and will let you know the result.like Dan said in his last post 'this might be a Beta thing' .if it stays as it is now after the emery work i can handle it.

thanks boys !!

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Dan.just a little update on the bike since i did the emery paper job on the clutch plate.

I have now spend a few hours on the bike and it like a new bike,clutch,find gears without any problem.it hard to beleive that just deglaze the steel clutch plate has made so differance.i cant explain how bad this clutch was.

Many thanks for your advice.

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Excellent. The clutch mod does a lot more than the deglazing of plates but whatever works... Hard shifting from clutch drag as you described can also be odd things like warped plates lined up just wrong in the clutch pack or plates not concentric due to the tabs being lumpy. Other guys on here like Billy Trainor have done really good work on sorting that stuff out. I suspect you shifted the alignment of the plates on reassembly and that may also have helped.

I think you deserve a lot of credit for keeping at it until it worked. Not everyone has that patience.

Keep an eye on the engagement point to make sure the hydraulics aren't weeping and it should be good for quite some time.

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