stanley Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Hi I could not find a new post in the sherpa section I hope some one can help me just got a Bultaco 350 199 (I think) to restore I have a frame No.JP-19100771 on the headstock the bike is red with what looks like an original red painted frame there is no spark at the plug so I am going to purchace a maneto/fly wheel puller and investigate more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 (edited) welcome mate if its a 199 should have the number 199 in the long number.have you checked the engine number to see if its the same? if theres no spark dont be to quick to think its the timming could be something simple like the plug cap may need cleaning or not connecting may be cut a small bit off the end off the coil wire. this happend to me once no spark so i cut a small bit off the wire and it sparked. failing that then check the wiring. may be a brake in the wiring or the kill switch if it as 1 has not be wired up correct. or it may not be earthed. all things you should check before timing and points hope this helps. Edited July 13, 2014 by bondy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markg Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Hi and welcome! The frame number suggests you have model 191. '77 to '78 Sherpa T 350. This is great website listing models with pictures. http://cemoto.tripod.com/bultaco.htm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanley Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 thanks for the response bondy and markg I have tried cutting back the HT lead still no spark, from the stator i have a black wire (ignition to coil? motoplat) yellow (lights?) to block conector behind headstock green earth? to a gold plate on a separate frame mount beneath block connector also behind headstock this plat e has a short braided wire running along its length the green earth wire is connected to this, so I would like to remove the mag/flywheel (Femsa ) and check the points/condenser/stator coils next to be continued... muchas grasias Stanley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 hello again its just the green and black wires you need the others just fold back and tap them up. green is earth black is ignition as you say. if you have got good earth and its wired up correct then it must be the points or timing or condenser. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanley Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 thanks bondy I have just ordered points/condenser/HT coil/fly wheel extractor etc from Inmotion so I will post again after fitting new parts PS do you know if I should have points open 15thou. at 1.90 BTDC this is what I remember from my last Sherpa (38 years ago) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 i dont know off the top off my head ill have a look in the manual. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guys Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 Because it gets to hot under the mag/flywheel, the condenser might fail. So while you're at it, mount it under the fuel tank. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanley Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 I guess I need to extend the condenser wire from the stator plate to reach the low tension wire to the coil terminal ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guys Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 I think that you can connect the condenser directly to the low tension wire on the coil. Make sure the condenser is grounded to the frame. The points should open to 0.016" and the ignition point should be at 2,5 - 2,7mm BTDC 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanley Posted July 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 thank you for the accurate info guys looking forward to my spare parts arriving Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanley Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 I have now fitted new coil points and condenser points gap set at 0.016th. piston at 2.5 mil BTDC also a new NGK plug and cap I have no spark at all ? however if I unscrew the plug cap and hold the HT lead when kicking over the engine I get a voltage jolt the same as if you hold the plug to the head and kick the motor over ? could this be an earthing issue ? my stator wire (green) is connected to a plate below the block connectors on the front downtube behind the head stock I know when I got the bike the 3 wires from the stator had been severed as they come out of the engine sidecase looked like they had caught on something could this have fried the LT coil on the stator plate if the bike was running at the time ie coil taking current then nowhere to disperse it due to all wires being instantly cut ? I have not touched the statorplate position on the engine it is set just over half way anti clockwise of its full movement any input gratefully received confused of Javea Stanley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 If you think the stator winding might have a problem, measure the resistance of the winding with it assembled on the stator plate and with the stator plate on the motor Another thought is to check for high resistance between the stator coil earth at the laminations, and the earth side of the HT coil. Sometimes people paint the frame then refit the motor and HT coil without thinking of them needing to be electrically conducting to the frame (unless there is an earth wire joining the stator to the HT coil) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 as above make sure the earth is connected to bare metal not painted. on my 198A i just had painted where the HT coil mounts i sanded half of that back to bare metal. then the green wire with a loop terminal connected to the wire i bolt it onto the HT coil. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanley Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Bueños dias riders yesterday I decided to start from the beginning with my ignition system so 2.5 mm BTDC points set to 16 thou. I then renewed the earth wire from the stator plate making good connections to frame (rear of headstock) then to new coil bracket (top frame tube) turned motor over and WOW had a spark so fuel tank back on fuel line connected kick kick kick ( X 3 ) motor starts responding perfectly as I last remembered from my last Bultaco 1978, so a big thank you all for your input it has been very helpfull to me "let the refurbishement begin" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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