pat_56 Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 My old cables are a bit ratty, some kinks and cracks etc. When I squeeze the brake and clutch levers, although they do activate after a fashion; the clutch does the clutch thing and the front brake mildly suggests that it would like the front wheel to slow down some if it's not too much trouble. New brake shoes are on order, however: What I notice is, there seems to be a lot of flex and squirm on the cables as they are applied. It would seem to me that I might be loosing some application force and smoothness with all this movement being used up to pretension my ratty old cables. While I expect just about any new cable will be an improvement, is any one aware of a superior grade of cable that is more robust? Surely there must be a better cable that people who ride competitively use, that surpass the performance of other available units. Any advice in this area? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Get new cables, oil them well. Before you get them remove the clutch arm from the case and grease well. After all these years that arm needs some lube! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 The best front brake cable available for the TY175 is the genuine Yamaha part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 (edited) Clutch cable has very little load so is not that critical which one you get as long as it is a lined outer. The Yamaha item works very well. The routing of the clutch cable on that bike is important. I have seen some bizarre variations of clutch cable routing on TY175s. Aim to maximise the radii of curves, minimise the number of curves and consider the effect of the steering moving through its full travel Edited August 6, 2014 by feetupfun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 There is usually more required to get the front brakes working well than fitting new shoes and a new cable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axulsuv Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 B&J racing in Tennessee Does some nice cables , and they've got a knack for TY's ... www.bjracing.com Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony283 Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 The BEST cables made for the Yam are the OEM ones as other makes do not usually have all the "extras". Your best bet is to go to Speed & Sport PA web site (Yamatopdog) and if you are buying new clutch and brake cables they come with the lever covers as well. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroke4stroke Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 (edited) No matter what you do cable manufacturer wise you won't be producing any "stoppie" pictures from your TY The brakes seemed good in the day compared to the anti-lock Spanish stuff but there's a design flaw in the front brake, namely that daft bend at the mudguard stay - you can see and feel it flex. If you can design that out then you'll be doing something useful. Edited August 6, 2014 by 2stroke4stroke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_56 Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Good tip on the clutch lever lube, I would not have thought of that. I plan to do a transmission oil change so this would be a good time to lube that arm. I did not know about the lever covers being included in the OEM cables, this and other advise received I will go with the OEM if I can find them. I'm not expecting modern braking, just hoping to get something close to original. Or at least somewhat better than what I have as all of my adjusters are pretty much maxed out. FYI, the stoppie in my member photo was a Photo Shopped gag for the guy I was fixing the bike for, I had one leg on the ground. That little Chinese bike would have folded under my weight. All good information that will be put to use in the project, thanks for the help! This years goal is a little TLC to unwind the clock a little for this old girl and a few hours in the trails for my Son to get to know the bike. Pat 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
power175 Posted August 20, 2014 Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 My old cables are a bit ratty, some kinks and cracks etc. Same as my TY175 cables, you can get cables made for the corect lenghth from places however i don't know were. here is a good website for TY parts and diagrams: www.tytrials.co.uk www.yambits.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_56 Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Well, I removed my clutch cable and had a closer look, it really wasn't that bad. The cracks were in a piece of old tubing that had been split and slid over the original cable. I cleaned them up and worked clear hydraulic oil through them. I also removed the pivot arm, cleaned and lubed it. The clutch feel and operation has improved exponentially! I also replaced the rear brakes. The old shoe friction material had fallen completely off one of the shoes. After cleaning and installing new shoes I had fairly good brakes but I had to use 100% of my adjustment and there is still a lot of pedal travel so that was a bit disappointing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ourian Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 I also replaced the rear brakes. The old shoe friction material had fallen completely off one of the shoes. After cleaning and installing new shoes I had fairly good brakes but I had to use 100% of my adjustment and there is still a lot of pedal travel so that was a bit disappointing. If your rear wheel is at or near full adjustment to take up chain tension, then this will also affect your rear brake adjustment. You could try removing the actuating arm from the drum and moving it round a tooth on it's spline, this will give you more adjustment and reduce the pedal travel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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