d250b Posted August 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 I tried to attach this photo to my last post but it wouldn't go, it's the inside of the crank seals on the clutch side as I found them and wondered if it could have cause the oil to get sucked into the crank case? I know the wear isn't on the shaft part of the seal but it doesn't look very clever! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) they look well worn is there a groove on the other side? if so it should have a o ring in it. but with it being a older bike it may have a gasket? it was only the later modals that had the o ring to seal it. be care full when taking old seals out not to damage the alloy carrier. the seals go back in back to back so the open end faces out wards. hope this helps. have fun. oh also on the clutch side there should be a sleeve that goes on the shaft up to the crank bearing that needs to come out as there's a o ring behind it that will need replacing also. but again not 100% sure on the 159 am sure some body will tell you. Edited August 17, 2014 by bondy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guys Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 My 159 had the o-rings on the seal carriers and the sleeve with o-ring on the shaft at the clutch side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) sorted then some times the sleeve can come out easy and if your unlucky it can be stuck on. i once had 1 stuck on just couldn't get it off i ended up selling the bike not just because off that it needed rebuilding any way. you can't get a puller behind it so am sure some body has done it? if the engine is being rebuilt then may be easy but if it's like the later bikes with 2 R/H crank bearings there's a clip in the crank case that splits the 2 bearings. you have to heat the case and tap the inside 1 out then the other and if the sleeve is stuck on i don't know how you would do that. just hope it comes off easy. they get jammed on i think when the clutch weight is pushed are hammered on hard. or mybe just heat dose it not sure on that 1 and you don't want to be cutting it off because you can't buy them all tho if it came to it you could have 1 made it's only a bush with a recess on 1 end to take the o ring. easy let us know if it comes off???????????? Edited August 17, 2014 by bondy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted August 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 Thanks guys, that sounds like mine were, the big o ring inside the seal carrier and the wee one along with the distance bush on the shaft; anyway it tallied up with the parts diagram and it seemed to make sense. bondy, mine came off fine and everything seemed to go back together ok. I'm definitely not splitting the engine this time, too scared of what i might find! it certainly seemed to be running fine mechanically so here's hoping. of course if and when I finally get to a trial I'm dreading another Bultaco owner saying "it shouldn't sound like that!" however i do think it's ok and we'll just leave it at that for now and keep fingers crossed. Anyway its too late now the engine's back in, all i need is the time-sert installed and then the last thing is the forks if i ever get them back from the rechromers! Thanks D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guys Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 Thanks guys, that sounds like mine were, the big o ring inside the seal carrier and the wee one along with the distance bush on the shaft; anyway it tallied up with the parts diagram and it seemed to make sense. bondy, mine came off fine and everything seemed to go back together ok. I'm definitely not splitting the engine this time, too scared of what i might find! it certainly seemed to be running fine mechanically so here's hoping. of course if and when I finally get to a trial I'm dreading another Bultaco owner saying "it shouldn't sound like that!" however i do think it's ok and we'll just leave it at that for now and keep fingers crossed. Anyway its too late now the engine's back in, all i need is the time-sert installed and then the last thing is the forks if i ever get them back from the rechromers! Thanks D Sounds familiar to me :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 well better to be checking now even tho you have the engine back in the frame. this is just what happend to me on a 199b i had. i had the barrel rebored new piston thought it was going to well. untill i checked the main crank bearings they was well worn i checked the crank movment. there was up and down movment. so had to take the engine out and strip it. it's worth checking if there's no movment then should be fine. then check the big end. if there's no up and down movment it's ok side side play is ok along as there'snot to much. it will only come back and bite you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted August 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 Had to take the head off to get the missing stud time-certed so went on and took off the barrel and took out the piston. Checked for play and only a tiny bit side to side and zero up and down so all should be well?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 I tried to attach this photo to my last post but it wouldn't go, it's the inside of the crank seals on the clutch side as I found them and wondered if it could have cause the oil to get sucked into the crank case? I know the wear isn't on the shaft part of the seal but it doesn't look very clever! Looks to me as though the seal is tipped in the carrier & has been wearing on the bearing. Would certainly allow oil into the crankcase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 if there's no up and down and onld abit off side play that's ok. check the main crank bearings by removing both clutch weight and magneto to see if there's any movment in the crank shaft? if not good. there's a o ring and oil seal behind the clutch basket and o ring and oil seal behind the front sprocket. are they ok or do they need changing? the 1 behind the front sprocket is abit tricky to get out but easy just have to take your time. i use i flat ended screwdriver blunt 1 so not to damage anything. once it's half way out use a oil seal puller to pop it out behind that there's a metal top hat also a small o ring on the shaft but if the seal looks ok from the out side id leaft it. you can tell when there worn the metal shows throw the rubber are it leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted August 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Thanks Tony, that may well be why it was dry and probably why there was horrible black sludge coming out of the joins and the holes in the exhaust?......... Bundy, All's well on that front, everything's been refitted and seemed to be fine. On the other thread where you mentioned seating the bearings I did that with the help of a paint stripper gun. Cheers. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 good good the rest should be easy fingers crossed. what you doing with the wheels? sending them off to be respoked? did you get the offset before you cut the hubs out there rims? another good idea is to have your exhaust repacked makes it alot better just had mine done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d250b Posted August 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 Not touching the wheels, too daunting......if you think the brake linings look ok then that's a relief because I just couldn't face having to strip and reline them, not to mention afford it. My forks are finally finished so they should be here tomorrow and the end is in sight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnjsy Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Hullo to Bondy & the rest of you on this topic, I had a really tight clutch side oil seal sleeve on a motor some years back. My way to get it off. Heat up really hot with an air gun ( paint stripper gun) then I found an open ended spanner a nice sliding fit to go onto the sleeve,clipped on a 2 legged puller & tightened up the drawer bolt & Roberts your new relation! (Bobs your Uncle) If the legs of a puller tend to slide open a Jubilee clip around them will stop their little game! Hope this helps someone some day. Regards,John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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