observedtrials Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Hello All, The red metal vents has started to separate from my rear fender on my 2014 Beta 4t. They appear to be held on by some kind of silicone. The fender is curved and the metal is fairly straight which is why it has come loose. I would like to try some other more permanent adhesive but I'm not sure what will be safe to use on the plastic fender. I also need something that will adhere to the metal. Does anyone know the type of plastic or has had success re-gluing the vents? Thanks, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slicktop Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 (edited) Heres how I would attack that. If I thought the metal screen needed more curvature then remove, clean, and find a rounded surface that I could bend the screen around to make the shape needed. I would clean all the old glue off the plastic, fit my curved screen, and tape off what I dont want the new glue to stick to. Then sand the exposed plastic that I want glue to adhere. Go to hardware store and read the properties of the glues they have. I would assume off the hat that Gorrila glue bonds to both surfaces, but keep in mind if using gorrilo, that it expands. There are other glues too. Go home and position the screens to check that my tape looks good, and lay down the glue sparingly. Lay the screen in place and put a little weight on each one. Dont touch it anymore but maybe pull the tape before the glue sets. Hope that helps, I'm sure you will do a good job. Edited September 7, 2014 by slicktop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tman427 Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Same deal on my 2011 Beta 4t....I now have a 2013 white rear fender, same deal on the vents. Tried Gorrilla glue, worked great, held in place for a bout 2 rides, then flexed and popped back off...going to try some silicone glue by GE, glue that is flexible....check back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 I have had good luck in the past on similar applications using 3M™ Super Weatherstrip Adhesive 08008/08001(black or yellow), available at parts stores. Clean the plastic well(alcohol wipe too), rough it with 80 grit, smear on a thin layer and let tack off while you apply to mating surface as well. tac surfaces should stick, weigh them down into position and let dry. Apply thin top coat on the perf metal after set so it soaks through. Mileage may vary with the plastic, use MEK for removal. Nasty stuff! Cheers, MC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brigalow Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 I'm waiting till mine pop off good & proper, then I was gonna bend 'em & silicon 'em back on in the hope that it may be a little more flexable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirdabalot Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Clear Silicone bathroom sealant worked ok for my 4 different years of beta 2009-2012. Dont worry too much though, as it wont be long till the mud guard self destructs anyway. Its possible to break one by looking at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Shoe Goo fixes everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
observedtrials Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Thanks everyone for the tips. It sounds like there are several adhesives that will work, it's all about the prep and finding the strongest adhesive that's still flexible after it dries. I'll also see if I can reshape the metal so that it fits properly without the adhesive. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Stikoflex used to bond car windscreens is the best,available from motor factors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheeliebealie Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) I took the mesh off, cleaned all the glue/silicone both the mesh and the inside of the mudguard,t then clamped the mesh back into place and went round the edge with a soldering iron and melted the plastic into and over the mesh that overlaps the mudguard (obvioulsly on the back (inside) of the mudguard) ****MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA**** Have done this on both mine and my lads 2011 Beta Evo's, also I think it doesn't help that the mudguards are so long i.e. one piece, we both have the Top Trial Team style two piece flexible mudguards (yes we've both looped our bikes at some point or other!) so if you do bend the new rear mudguard the force stops half way along (at the join) and doesn't transfer on along to the meshed area. Also covered the mesh with clear silicone to stop the water getting into the air filter area, never had a problem with the bikes running since I've done them, that last tip came from Steve Saunders, I would suggest the bloke knows what he's talking about! Edited September 8, 2014 by wheeliebealie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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