jon v8 Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Everyone has their own favourites with shocks,any of them will do the job,the only ones I'd avoid are Betor. NJB shocks are here; http://www.njbshocks.co.uk/ I have Falcons on my HT5 Ariel which I really like,easy people to deal with and will rebuild any of their shocks from parts in stock - all the time.They will also supply different length ends to modify overall length,which may help you. http://www.falconshockabsorbers.co.uk/ The other good choice would be John Bull's Rockshocks ; http://www.rockshocks.co.uk/ Far more important than the decision of the make of shocks is sorting a decent carb, Surrey cycles will do a Mk1 Concentric which will help no end,and they have good advice on jetting etc.I ran standard slides in my AJS until I was happy with the cutaway,then they supplied a brass replacement which will last a lot longer;http://surreycycles.com/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyrefryer Posted September 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Thanks for the info on the shocks Jon, shouldn't I stick to a Monobloc because of the age of my bike though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird387 Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 (edited) Hi Martin, Jon's advice to use a Mk I Concentric is spot on - and no clash with eligibility either. Deryk PS If you do carry on using the Monobloc, take out the needle jet, fill the hole at the base of the choke tube with a blob of solder - all the works bikes used that 'mod' and it really cleans up the pick up from tickover in a slow section where you need a quick blip of throttle to lighten the front wheel. Edited September 17, 2014 by laird387 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyrefryer Posted September 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Hi Deryk, so do you mean remove the choke, It was and I've just been replacing it!? I quite like the Monobloc as (I thought) it's period and I have a bike with a pre-Monobloc and also one with a Concentric but I've never had a Monobloc before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyrefryer Posted September 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Wow, just checked the Amal site and a Mk 1 Concentric is a lot cheaper than a Monobloc! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird387 Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Hi Deryk, so do you mean remove the choke, It was and I've just been replacing it!? I quite like the Monobloc as (I thought) it's period and I have a bike with a pre-Monobloc and also one with a Concentric but I've never had a Monobloc before. Hi Martin, No, don't remove the choke, just fill the little hole in the side of the needle jet with solder then put the needle jet back in the carb. Deryk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyrefryer Posted September 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Ah right, thanks for confirming that Deryk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stan wellback Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Hi tyrefryer, your bike has the heavy weight road swing arm. it is a one piece, H shaped item.it is much deeper at the hinge end,adding to your chain problem, it also adds about 2 inches to your wheel base. look at Gordons bike, he has the later 2 piece arm of a so called light weight. they are not a straight swap. as for the 18 inch wheel versus the 19 inch, the profile of the 18 at 100% makes the O/D almost identical.also the 19 has 3/8 inch block depth compared to 1/2 inch on the 18. dont know what year the picture of Gordon was taken but i looks like an 18 inch wheel to me. gov 132 still had a 19 inch rim in it last year at the museum. a ratio of 27 engine revs to 1 rear wheel rev in 1st gear is a good starting point for trials gearing.but top speed is a bit restricted!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird387 Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Hi tyrefryer, your bike has the heavy weight road swing arm. it is a one piece, H shaped item.it is much deeper at the hinge end,adding to your chain problem, it also adds about 2 inches to your wheel base. look at Gordons bike, he has the later 2 piece arm of a so called light weight. they are not a straight swap. as for the 18 inch wheel versus the 19 inch, the profile of the 18 at 100% makes the O/D almost identical.also the 19 has 3/8 inch block depth compared to 1/2 inch on the 18. dont know what year the picture of Gordon was taken but i looks like an 18 inch wheel to me. gov 132 still had a 19 inch rim in it last year at the museum. a ratio of 27 engine revs to 1 rear wheel rev in 1st gear is a good starting point for trials gearing.but top speed is a bit restricted!!! Hi, Gordon's bike was photographed at the start of the '62 Scottish. If you want to see a picture of the real GOV - get ORRe...... Deryk Wylde Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyrefryer Posted September 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 (edited) Thanks Stan, that's very useful to know. Which museum are you referring to and is the bike on permanent exhibition there? Edited September 18, 2014 by tyrefryer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird387 Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Thanks Stan, that's very useful to know. Which museum are you referring to and is the bike on permanent exhibition there? Hi tyrefryer, Email me on offroarchive@gmail.com for information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyrefryer Posted September 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Have sent you an email Deryk, thanks! It looks like the overly complicated and badly worn folding kickstart lever and mechanism I have is nothing to do with AMC bikes. I was going to build up the worn pads on the lever and holes with weld and grind/drill back but I don't think the spline is right anyway so I think I'll look for a new replacement. As yet I haven't been able to find a folding lever for a Burman B52 so if anyone knows where I might get one I'd be glad to hear, or if any alternative kickstart splines are the same? Preferably something similar to what would have been used on a trials bike of the period? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyrefryer Posted September 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 After a bit of research I've found Terry Weedy, http://www.terryweedy.com/classic-kickstarts.html And an excellent review on here http://jampot-spares.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=13085 Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon v8 Posted September 25, 2014 Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 Glad you have found Terry, I think most of us use his kickstarts,good kit.I've recently bought some footrests off him for another project at the Bonanza scramble,again not 50p,but what he sells is small volume stuff and not made in China - worth the difference in my opinion. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyrefryer Posted September 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 Hi Jon, yes I sent my cheque off to Terry and have also bought a new kickstart shaft. Hopefully when I get the lever I'll be able to have the bike ready to use (for now). Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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