burns1989 Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 (edited) Hi all im new to this game from just coming from mx to do trials for the winter . Any way I have bought a 2006 rev 3 250 and was wondering what the rear suspension is like as it's got a direct link from the shock to frame . Is this not as beneficial as a linkage set up . As in some ways it is just a twin shock but a single shock . I'm picking the bike up next weekend. How often is the air filter cleaned and gear box oil changed as a mx bike its a fresh air filter every race meeting and 3 races before gear box oil change . As well how often is a engine rebuild needed as running such a lean oil mixture must starve the engine of lubracation causing faster engine wear . Pleas corect me id I have anything wrong thanks ian from the uk Edited October 9, 2014 by burns1989 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hrmad Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 Hi, I've got a 200 of the same year. Haven't noticed a problem with the rear suspension. Air filter ideally cleaned after every ride. I'm planning on changing the gear box oil at least once a month, or after 2 trials- which ever comes first. Don't make the same mistake I did, check to see if the waterpump housing is magnesium, if so it is prone to corroding and coolant can get into the gearbox oil. Beta clutches can stick from cold too, but there is a mod on the forum that can greatly help. Mikuni carbs can cause issues for some people (fuel leaking, not starting downhill etc.) All worthwhile things to check out before you buy otherwise, betas are good bikes, I'm no expert but I hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zerorev3rev4 Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 if not having linkage was a downfall it would have been improved as you will know each year a new improved model comes out , they have now changed it on the evo but id rather have no worn out linkages on my suspension , it is a good idea to keep an eye on air filter and clean when necessary depending on riding conditions , changing the oil is up to the individual , but the more the better , trials engines are not run flat out like mx they just potter about thus under far less stress and can go on for many years without a rebuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burns1989 Posted October 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 Thanks but how will I know if it's a magnesium case and how can I check it for leaking . Ok I gues every ride out il do air filter and 1 hour on gear oil . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hrmad Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 Thanks but how will I know if it's a magnesium case and how can I check it for leaking . Ok I gues every ride out il do air filter and 1 hour on gear oil . There is a clear sight glass on mine, the oil will look cloudy/ milky if coolant is getting in. Only real way to check is by draining out the coolant and taking the waterpump cover off, if the oil looks fine and the clutch engages properly when cold I wouldn't worry. Light gear oil is a good idea, as is Factory Line organic coolant by Motul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 Do air filter every trial gear oil every 6 70/1 oil mixture is fine with a good synthetic oil any more just causes more smoke, it won't wear out more quickly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 (edited) The rear suspension feels soft but works fine, don't forget to grease the spherical shock end bearings and the swinging arm bearings, replacements are not cheap Check air filter after every ride Gearbox oil will do several trials unless you cool the bike in deep water and suck water in. Opinions differ widely as to oil mix ratio. For normal trial use stick to handbook ratios but if you ride it harder put more oil in. Standard beta jetting is Ok for as rich as 24:1. Bear in mind a piston and bore replate is getting on for £300 and it makes sense to look after the air filter and don't skimp on 2t oil. Check your water pump housing and primary drive case for corrosion, use blue (ethylene glycol) antifreeze at 50% with distilled water and change it every six months to minimise corrosion. "70/1 oil mixture is fine with a good synthetic oil any more just causes more smoke, it won't wear out more quickly" This statement from the previous post is not accurate. I run at 32:1 with good quality fully synthetic oil and get no smoke, no carbon build up and no exhaust clogging. More oil gives less wear, it is just that quite a few riders find that 70:1 give acceptable wear rates with their riding style. Edited October 9, 2014 by dadof2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burns1989 Posted October 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 Ok I use rock oil comp 2 for my mx bikes is this ok or should I use somthing more aimed at trials bikes. Well iv got air filter oil and cleaner so that's no trouble for me . Yha plating is 120 from Lancort and a good piston I gues is 80 to 90 quid . I'm a mechanic just need the specs and tolerances and im ok . Looking at the pics of the bike the oil is brown so I think its ok but u never know . If the casing has gone how much is a new one . Yha linkages need top services and fresh greas every 3 months I do mine .Ok so there isn't any travel lost with the rear shock set up . Chears ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hrmad Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 Around 80 quid for a new case, you can get aluminium ones. I did a repair on mine with an epoxy type resin, cost 5 pounds, new gasket around 8, has done the trick so far, worth trying if there is corrosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 Beta 250 piston is over £145. Langcourt may be £120 but: The piston has to be posted to them, the barrel has to be posted to them (+insurance?). Then return postage and gaskets. By the time everything is added up it is probably over £300 Perhaps someone knows where you can get vertex pistons at a better price ? Apico maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goudrons Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 The Beta is a good bike, they changed very little in 8 years. They like the higher octane fuel and fully synthetic oil, otherwise they can pink a bit or knock with a little pre dentonation. I've never had any engine issues in any of mine, but I've heard a few older bikes with grumbling mains. They respond well to a clean exhaust and a silencer repack but don't pack too tightly (or just use a preformed element that's available) Clean the airbox out as well as the air filter regularly, they can let in a little dirty water around the top, pay attention to the airbox lid and the rubber seal. As already written, the casing around the waterpump is prone to corroding, in all the years on Rev3's, I've never suffered though I use Silkolene Pro Cool in there. Water in the gear oil is a sign of trouble, not too expensive to fix. Stators have been know to fail, again I must be lucky not to suffer, there are places that will repair them. Clutches can be a bit annoying, they can stick when stored and drag when warm making gear selction a problem, particularly when stationary. There is a clutch fix at the top of the Beta section, seems to help a little. What oil to put in varies on who you ask, a lot will tell you ATF but after trying nearly everything, Light gear oil or better still Putoline Nano Trans works for me, last a bit longer too. As with most, they can be a little noisy too. Have a search around regarding setting up the float height on the Mikuni carb, they are fitted at a steep angle and it's important to set them correctly to stop them leaking out of the vents, flooding the engine or leaning out or stalling down hill. Better still would be to bin it and fit a Dellorto VHST flatslide, can be expensive to buy but the improvement over the old Mikuni is amazing. I managed to pick one up and jet it for around half Beta UK wanted, jets and setting are on here or I can dig mine out and post them if needed. The rear suspension works fairly well considering it's such a short shock and you haven't the argo of a load of extra bearing, bushes and seals of a linkage. Check and regrease the swinging arm bearing and bushes regularly, marine grease (made for boat props etc) works well and lasts a bit longer. Time can take it's toll on the rear shock though, many have suffered from the bladder in the damper failing (keeps the gas from the oil), the rear suspension goes soggy and it starts leaking (and sounds like a sink plunger when bounced). Beta Uk used to repair them, not sure if they still do, but cost was quite high. Olle (as fitted to the Jotagas) do a replacement, bit of a budget unit, but works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burns1989 Posted October 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 Well thank you every one who poasted it gas given me alot of insight into the bike thanks ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burns1989 Posted October 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 One other question how good does it work with a fly wheel weight as in make any much difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.