2004 Beta Rev3 Service And Questions

[anthc24]

So I've had my carb ultra sonic cleaned, fitted it to bike and it's finally running

Basically want to get it ready to ride on Friday after being stored for over a year what do you guys advise?

Was going to change oil, coolant, filter etc which oil should I be using? And how much? Also do they have a oil filter?

Where the silencer meets the front pipe, should there be some sort of clamp holding them together as mine doesn't? Also the arm for the throttle cable onto of the carb is snapped on the end near the nut, should I replace? And should the arm be screwed tight into the top of the carb?

Regards

[dadof2]

Coolant - ethylene glycol (blue) mixed 1:1 with water

Gearbox oil, 10W40 or light 75w gear oil, about 750 cc to bring it to 1/2 way up sight glass

Same oil will do for air filter

No oil filter

Throttle cable needs fixing properly or air will leak into top of carb.

[goudrons]

Yes, replace the cable guide on top of the carb.

If it's snapped off clean, you might not be able to get the threaded part out of the carb top, so you might need another of those too.

Try http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/index.html

They seem to stock most Mikuni parts, though I don't know if the bent cable guide on a Rev 3 is a standard Mikuni part, but I'm sure they'll sort you out with something suitable.

The guide it's self shouldn't really need tightening up into the carb top, just screw it all the way in with your hand, then back it out so the cable is at the correct angle (guide points forward) then the lock nut to carb top is nipped up.

The Mikuni Carb on these needs the float hieght setting spot on, search on here (or Google) there is a couple of guides on how to set these correctly.

There is no clamp between mid box and the front pipe.

Inside the mouth of the mid box are a couple of rubber O rings that fit into recesses in the mouth of the mid box, these seal up the joint.

http://www.beta-uk.com/images/stories/spares-pdfs/2004/rev3_2t_04_200-250-270cc_frame.pdf

Here's the engine one too

http://www.beta-uk.com/images/stories/spares-pdfs/2004/rev3_2t_04_200-250-270cc_engine.pdf

If it's been on and off a few times, they can get knock out of their recesses or damaged when the front pipe is pushed in.

A smear of grease should help hold them in and lude them up when refitting the front pipe.

If it's been stored, it worth checking over a few bits before you drag it miles out for a first ride.

Foam air filters can be washed out with soapy water, left to dry and a light oiling of two stroke applied (not soaked though)

Clean out the air box too, as they can get mucky water dribbling in.

Check the swinging arm bearings and bushes for play, clean and regrease them, do the same with the head stock bearings.

Check the wheels bearings for play.

Check the wheels are true (or near enough!).

Check the sprockets aren't worn and hooked over and the chain in it good nic, that's it's free from grit and sh*t. Oil it up well then apply a chain wax to hold the oil on.

Check these is a little play (a little slack) in the brake (both F and R) and clutch lever operation, around 2 mm of movement before the rods operate the master cylinder pistons should be about right (see hand book).

If you expect to fall off (like the rest of us) loosen the brake lever and clutch lever clamps to the bars ever so slightly, just enough so they will move if you drop the bike, could save broken levers and early bath.

Go over all the nuts and bolts and check their torque, I would personally redo both brake discs and rear sprocket bolts and apply thread lock to them.

Check the rear tyre doesn't leak air, use soapy water in a trigger bottle to spray around the rim, spoke holes and spoke threads.

There is fixes for a leaky rim, if you find one (or more) just ask on here.

Most two strokes respond well to having their silencer repacked.

The exhaust should have a mellowish bark when you blip the throttle and not sound harsh.

Undo the end cap, pull out the perforated pipe and gloopy mess and clean up the pipe.

You can get a preformed silencer insert for one of these or wrap the pipe in some silencer matting, but not too tightly.

Just wrap enough to hold the perforated pipe in place within the silencer, it should all stuff back in fairly easily, if not, it's too tight.

They do like the higher octane fuel and fully synthetic 2 stroke oil (at 1.5% mix)

Pointless adding more "just in case" as it leans the overall fuel/air mixture out and clogs the exhaust with unburnt oil.

[anthc24]

Yes, replace the cable guide on top of the carb.If it's snapped off clean, you might not be able to get the threaded part out of the carb top, so you might need another of those too.Try http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/index.htmlThey seem to stock most Mikuni parts, though I don't know if the bent cable guide on a Rev 3 is a standard Mikuni part, but I'm sure they'll sort you out with something suitable. The guide it's self shouldn't really need tightening up into the carb top, just screw it all the way in with your hand, then back it out so the cable is at the correct angle (guide points forward) then the lock nut to carb top is nipped up. The Mikuni Carb on these needs the float hieght setting spot on, search on here (or Google) there is a couple of guides on how to set these correctly. There is no clamp between mid box and the front pipe.Inside the mouth of the mid box are a couple of rubber O rings that fit into recesses in the mouth of the mid box, these seal up the joint.http://www.beta-uk.com/images/stories/spares-pdfs/2004/rev3_2t_04_200-250-270cc_frame.pdfHere's the engine one toohttp://www.beta-uk.com/images/stories/spares-pdfs/2004/rev3_2t_04_200-250-270cc_engine.pdfIf it's been on and off a few times, they can get knock out of their recesses or damaged when the front pipe is pushed in.A smear of grease should help hold them in and lude them up when refitting the front pipe. If it's been stored, it worth checking over a few bits before you drag it miles out for a first ride. Foam air filters can be washed out with soapy water, left to dry and a light oiling of two stroke applied (not soaked though)Clean out the air box too, as they can get mucky water dribbling in. Check the swinging arm bearings and bushes for play, clean and regrease them, do the same with the head stock bearings.Check the wheels bearings for play.Check the wheels are true (or near enough!).Check the sprockets aren't worn and hooked over and the chain in it good nic, that's it's free from grit and sh*t. Oil it up well then apply a chain wax to hold the oil on.Check these is a little play (a little slack) in the brake (both F and R) and clutch lever operation, around 2 mm of movement before the rods operate the master cylinder pistons should be about right (see hand book).If you expect to fall off (like the rest of us) loosen the brake lever and clutch lever clamps to the bars ever so slightly, just enough so they will move if you drop the bike, could save broken levers and early bath.Go over all the nuts and bolts and check their torque, I would personally redo both brake discs and rear sprocket bolts and apply thread lock to them.Check the rear tyre doesn't leak air, use soapy water in a trigger bottle to spray around the rim, spoke holes and spoke threads.There is fixes for a leaky rim, if you find one (or more) just ask on here. Most two strokes respond well to having their silencer repacked.The exhaust should have a mellowish bark when you blip the throttle and not sound harsh.Undo the end cap, pull out the perforated pipe and gloopy mess and clean up the pipe.You can get a preformed silencer insert for one of these or wrap the pipe in some silencer matting, but not too tightly.Just wrap enough to hold the perforated pipe in place within the silencer, it should all stuff back in fairly easily, if not, it's too tight. They do like the higher octane fuel and fully synthetic 2 stroke oil (at 1.5% mix)Pointless adding more "just in case" as it leans the overall fuel/air mixture out and clogs the exhaust with unburnt oil.

Thank you very much! Very helpful! everything is ordered and should be here tomorro!

The only 2stroke oil my local shop had was putoline mx5, mx7 & mx9, which should I use if any? And I'm at right in saying 75ml of oil to 5l of fuel? (At 1.5%)

Also the clutch does not seem to work for the first few minutes untill warm but was told this was common?

[goudrons]

MX5 is fully synthetic and should be fine.

I've been using Shell's synthetic Advance VSX 2 as it's readily available from my local petrol station rather than hunt around for anything else.

Yep, 75ml per 5 litres of 98/99 ron "super" unleaded.

The clutch does drag a bit when cold and can stick together solid when left a while, so make sure you put the bike in gear, pull the clutch in and rock it back and forth to free it off before you fire her up and select a gear after it's been left parked up a few days.

There are plenty that haven't and lurch off through the nearest hedge as soon as a gear is selected, no matter what the clutch lever is doing!

There is a clutch mod that can be done and that does help.

Basically you pull out all the plates and clean the fibre plates of glue stuck between the pads and smooth up the edges of tabs.

You find it here. it's a PDF in Dan Williams first post (thanks Dan)

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/28407-the-beta-clutch-fix/

It's a painstaking task (thanks again Dan!), but does work, just done it to my Evo clutch and it's made gear selection a lot easier as it's cleared up most of the drag.

As the gear oil also wets the clutch plates, whatever oil you use effects the clutch operation.

Some use automatic transmission fluid, but it can make it feel grabby and switch like and I'm not 100% certain it does the fibre plates any good, hear it can make the fibres swell.

Most light gear oil of 75w is ok, but can make the clutch feel a little draggy and slower.

I'm pretty sure some will mix the two to quicken the feel a little in whatever ratios they feel works.

I find Putoline Nano Trans makes it feel so much smoother and gives a quick enough action for me, though it isn't cheap, you don't need to change it as often.

BTW for greasing the swinging arm and head bearing, use marine grease that's used of boat props etc, seems to keep the water out a little longer.

Edited October 21, 2014 by goudrons