matador107 Posted December 9, 2014 Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 RE; the broken gear , maybe talk to Nova Engineering in the UK, they make 6 speed transmissions to retro fit to Bultacos. Do not have a contact number. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted December 9, 2014 Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 RE; the broken gear , maybe talk to Nova Engineering in the UK, they make 6 speed transmissions to retro fit to Bultacos. Do not have a contact number. Useful to know, thanks for that. Website is here http://www.novaracing.co.uk/ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted December 9, 2014 Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 Larry, Found it, will PM details. Larry 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpar Posted December 9, 2014 Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 Thanks to Lorenzo, Woody, Matador for advice. Larry has found me a gear so I think I'm sorted on that front. Regarding the spokes, as I said earlier, when I enquired years ago when there was an agent for Bultaco spares here, I remember being told that new spokes were 12 gauge and the ones on my bike were 10 gauge. Is this correct and if so would the lighter spokes be ok? Larry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 Larry yes 12 gauge spokes are fine in principle for steel spokes on a trials bike. It is the quality of the thread forming on the spokes and in the nipples that can be a problem with new spokes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 "10/12 gauge" - gauge meaning S.W.G. - a BRITISH Standard ? If they are original spokes, I would expect them to be METRIC - 4mm. maybe ? Mic. them to be certain. If you plan to respoke the wheels yourself, I urge you to take as many notes and measurements as poss. before stripping the wheels (and some photos. to make sense of the measurements later, when you have hubs,spokes, nipples, etc. as a heap of bits and have forgotten). Also set wheel spindles in a vice or other firm fixture and spin the wheels to ascertain the amount of buckle/runout of the rims in both planes - if it's excessive it may not pull out - after removing tyres, etc. check also for damage generally, especially to the nipple holes and seatings. There are detailed instructions on how to measure spokes, etc. to be found on the websites of a number of specialist suppliers. OR you could simply get a reputable wheelbuilder to do the whole job for you......... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpar Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Lorenzo, I think you may be on the right track re. wheel re-build. Either I get them done by an expert (probably expensive) Or maybe I could replace them one by one. ie, remove one, replace, move on to the next. Would that work? Re. what agent told me back in the day. I'll put the micrometer on them in due course and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpar Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 All the best for the Christmas season lads. Thanks for all the help so far. Larry. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpar Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Guys, Just a couple of pics of the carb, which is an IRZ which, reading the posts here would be hard to get parts for, although there doesn't seem to be much wear in evidence. Also the magneto which I assume can be wired for lights although there were never lights on it as far as I know. Were lights fitted when new? Larry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matador107 Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 You'll be able to run lights off that set up, not too sure about that terminal block though, I've never seen that type before. Send me a PM and I'll flick you a simple wiring diagram if needed. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpar Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Thanks Martin, I sent off a PM. Larry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twinshock giles Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Re the missing frame number - could it have had a replacement frame very early in its life? A new frame wouldn't have been stamped up. If these were still sold in kit form maybe the frame was damaged before it was sold and a replacement was supplied? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twinnshock Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 My M10 has a similar terminal block. Stuart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpar Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Giles, You could possibly be right. Trouble is I don't know the history of the bike right now. I might come across the guy who gave it to me at some stage and find out something. Did a tot on all the stuff I'll need to get it back to kinda where it should be and my eyes began to water! This project could take a while. The engine/ gearbox wont be too bad but the rest....... Larry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpar Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Hello Guys, Instead of fitting spares to the bike these past weeks. I've had a spare part fitted to my knee in the form of a lump of titanium called a knee replacement! All going well so far. Haven't been able to do anything with the bike in the meantime but I should be back at it in due course. On another topic, I was having difficulty logging on in common with some others. Just downloaded Google Chrome and now all seems well. Larry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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