1997 200 Clutch Drag.

[fitz_the_viking]

Hi, i have just aquired a 1997 200 to learn on and when the clutch lever is fully pulled in the bike is still moving, so much that you cant select neutral. when its cold it wont even idle.

The oil that was put in at the last service was mtl 80wt oil (never heard of it) i have had a fiddle with the clutch adjustment but still nothing.

i suppose this is good in one way because my heart truly lies with twinshocks (my monty clutch is a lever to hang hemlets off) and pre 65's but i am spending so much time on my restorations that if i use it as a leaner and bin it i will cry and it is a given i will come off. lots.

many thanks all.

have just read the beta 250 clutch fix http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/28407-the-beta-clutch-fix/ interesting read. wondering if there is an easy option first before taking the clutch to bits.

Edited October 29, 2014 by fitz_the_viking

[goudrons]

Unless you have some sort of hydraulic issue, say a leak from the master or slave cyclinders or air/dirty rotten fluid in the system, there's no easy fix, you just need to bite the bullet and pull the plates out for a inspection/clean up.

It's not uncommon for the master cylinder to leak and kits are reasonably priced to rebuild them, new seals and piston for around £15-£20.

First signs of a leaky MC is the little domed rubber dust cover on the end of the MC, between the lever and MC swells due to brake fluid and won't hold in place, it'll keep popping out of the groove or there are dribbles around that area.

It's away worth replacing the hydraulic fluid if the age is unknown, easiest way I know is to back bleed the system with a large syringe and a short hose to fit the bleed nipple, just open the slave end and pump it back through from there.

A cloth over the open reservoir saves squirting brake fluid 30ft in the air!

So worth checking and sorting those first.

There's no point filing and sanding away at the plates if they are worn out anyway, so a check of their condition is needed.

Off hand I can't remember what the minimum thickness needs to be, but worn plates tend to slip in high gears rather than drag, so yours may be ok.

The mod you linked to does help if done carefully, so it is worth the effort, it's painstaking rather than hard.

Clean up the fibre plates as described and wash the metal ones off, carefully checking for warps and damage.

While you are removing the springs/pressure plate, directly behind is the actuator, it's a flat bearing and two washers that act on the inside of the pressure plate to push it out.

Check the bearing is ok and rollers aren't missing from it and the two washers aren't scored or full of burrs.

After that, the oil in there has a big effect, too thick and it slows the action badly and tends to stick the plates.

Too thin (like ATF) and it gives a grabby, switch like feel to the clutch, neither is best for learning!

A decent "lite gear oil" of around 75w is about right.

Better still is Putoline Nano Trans, though a bit pricey at around £30 a litre, it does work well and lasts longer between changes.

Careful of over adjusting the adjuster between MC and lever.

It needs a few mm of play in the end of the lever before it starts to depress the MC (same goes for both brakes as well)

Otherwise everything heats up, expands and they start to operate on their own!

Edited October 29, 2014 by goudrons

[fitz_the_viking]

thanks for that. thats a genius way of changing the clutch fluid.

i dont mind spending money on oils. have been sold for ages that its not worth scrimping on.

current clutch fluid is like gravy so will start with the basics and work from there.

[fitz_the_viking]

so, given everything a good clean and changed the fluid. Had a look at the clutch and someone has had a go at doing the clutch fix but just had a quick go at the plates. have given them a more thourough fettling. So after all of this its still the same.

Then it hit me. This is the first 2 stroke i have owned in nearly 10 years. yes the engine may be warm but that doesnt mean the gearbox oil is warm does it!! a bit of clutch work and gentle riding later and its loads better so when its properly hot i dont forsee a problem. if there is i will take the above advice and put a slightly thinner oil in.

school boy error me thinks.

[trialsrfun]

The 200 Beta is a superb bike & yes the clutch fix detailed above is the way to go. My mate did his Evo 4T yesterday with complete success.

[lbhbul]

To any concerned, The most helpful clutch fix I have found involves careful

use of a thread file (4 sided).

Have a nice day

Larry

Edited November 2, 2014 by lbhbul