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Merits Of A Heavier Spring ?


cabby
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Recently bought a 2014 Replica and read that the spring is rated for a 70kilo rider so my question is, what's the merits in buying a heavier rated spring as I'm 96ish kilos, though bearing in mind I ride clubman and not very well at that.

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Recently bought a 2014 Replica and read that the spring is rated for a 70kilo rider so my question is, what's the merits in buying a heavier rated spring as I'm 96ish kilos, though bearing in mind I ride clubman and not very well at that.

I bought a new uprated rieger spring from Gas Gas for precisely that reason. I had it on my Factory bike for five weeks prior to changing the bike for a factory sherco and had it taken off prior to sale. It sit's on the shelf in my garage and I may sell.

I think the advantage is if your well over the rating of the spring the intense preload limits the range of movement. A stronger spring can run at a longer length (after providing basic support to your weight) giving you greater access to more of the range if that makes sense. I'm more hopeful enthusiast than good rider to be honest but I believe it does make a clear difference in bigger stuff that gets slammed into etc. My rationale was why pay extra for a trick bike that has a disproportionate spring rate on what is probably the most significant mechanism provided by that bike - rear suspension.

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I had a stiffer spring on my sherco and although I can't say I did any big hits or stuff I did notice the difference just by standing on the bike.

if you're interested in selling it fire me a pm please.

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Essentially the Shock needs to be a certain length in order to work properly. If you are heavy and compress it the damping effect becomes more limited and the effectiveness of the shock diminishes. Winding the spring up to compensate is the usual method but that will only work to a point. A Stronger spring does the same job without Winding it up as much. The Shock does need some "sag" in it to work properly. Hence Childrens bikes tend to have a shock spring that is not as strong so as to allow the shock to sink when the child is on the bike.

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I've read that a couple of times now and still can't make head nor tail of it.

It's a bad translation, i know.

Here's the gist of it:

He (weighs about 100kg) used to have the standard spring with a lot of pre load.

With the new spring and much less pre load, the suspension reacts better to small bumps and he was able to "load" the spring better for higher jumps.

Also when jumping of higher rocks, the spring doesn't "bottom out".

Because the rear suspension doesn't sag as much, it also improves the handling and gives lighter steering.

Even lighter expert riders can benefit from this heavier spring, because they can load the rear suspension to jump on higher obstacles.

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I would say that a significantly heavier rider benefits from a stiffer spring but the forks need to be matched

Suspension is a very complex subject that can't be covered in brief posts. Generally speaking a soft spring with a lot of pre load is used for comfort whereas a stiffer spring with less pre load is used for precise handling. Both soft and stiff springs attempt to maintain the vehicle at its preset ride height. On most vehicles the aim of the suspension is to absorb bumps, maintain the vehicle at the correct attitude to the road and maintain good wheel to surface contact.

This is not the case with trials bikes, particularly in stop permitted type riding. Here the spring / suspension is used as an energy store, the energy being released when required to hop the bike up obstacles or bounce the front wheel round. A lower level rider probably benefits from a suspension set up that primarily absorbs bumps whereas a top level rider will need a more reactive suspension to assist their riding.

Whatever level of rider you are it is no use having suspension that bottoms out frequently, this just causes instability and loss of grip. Take the spring off your shock and refit the shock to the bike, then stand on the bike in your normal riding position whilst a friend takes a side on photo which clearly shows the position of the rear wheel relative to the rear mudguard, this is fully bottomed out. Refit the spring and ride the bike in sections with your friend filming it. Then rerun the film in slow / stop and check for bottoming out. It should only just or not quite bottom when you lift the front and load the back to ride a large step or hit a large bump. Any more frequent bottoming and your suspension is too soft, so you need more preload, a stiffer spring or more compression damping. If your static sag is 40% of suspension travel or less, prevent bottoming by increasing compression damping. If your static sag is more than 40% of suspension travel you need more pre load or stiffer spring. Some would suggest 35% is the option point rather than 40%.

One of the great benefits of rising rate / linkage suspension is that it is able to accommodate quite a range of rider weights whilst still providing acceptable performance. It is also fortunate that a set up that suits a good / expert 70 Kg rider is usually adequate for a somewhat heavier rider of lesser ability. That statement pretty well holds true for MX and Enduro as well.

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http://www.splatshop.co.uk/performance-parts/suspension.html

http://www.zonetrial.com/Articles.aspx?langue=N&SousFamille=Vering&Id_SousFamille=G1UH0T78B6&Marque=&topic=0

In europa though, dont know where you live, but you can probably find yourself a site which is close to you.

Note that other spring will need adjustments of rebound and compression (depending on which type of shock you have) and front forks need adjustments aswell in order to balance the bike.

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