leeson660 Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Hi guys I'm trying to remove the thermostat to replace as I'm still not confident the fan is working as it should but am having difficulty. Top right of radiator - I've removed the cir-clip holding the thermostat in. I've tried pouring hot water down the gaps to help free up the o-ring. Still the thing will not budge. I wanted to check on here first before I give it too much just in case there was any tips / technique to removing. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Put some more WD40 on O ring, refill coolant or water and put filler cap back on. Run bike, and they usually pop out as it warms up and pressure increases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussiechris Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 I agree with the above. You can also use compressed air (maximum 14 psi) down the filler neck while you ease the switch out of the radiator. I used plenty of rubber grease on the o-ring and housing last time and it came out a lot easier this time. I just wish someone would come up with a more reliable thermo switch. The last one only worked for six months. Chris Brisbane Australia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeson660 Posted November 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Thanks guys much appreciated. I'll give it a try and hopefully it'll come out. Rubber grease ordered for the new installation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeson660 Posted November 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Worked an absolute treat thanks guys. New thermo switch installed which thankfully cured the problem with rubber grease applied Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_earle Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 The switch on the later gassers is a joke, and at 30 quid a pop even bigger joke. Always keep a spare or a small manual switch with some wires on it that you can quickly hook up if it fails at a trial. You can retro fit the earlier switches that go inline with the rad hose, You will have to get a housing for it too, Earlier shercos use the same one so try breakers for a cheap 2nd hand one. Look at Raga's factory bike, He's using the larger pre 14 rad and the old style in line fan switch. Goes to figure that the new rads are not great. Browny has been given the bigger rad as I have seen in a few pics, especially for the ssdt. http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag325/autoskill1/crop_zps810c17e1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussiechris Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 Yes, excellent tips there Steve. I made up a short (about 3" long) wire with a 6mm ring terminal one end and a male bullet connector on the other. Use white coloured wire if you can as it matches what it ultimately plugs into. The ring terminal is installed permanently on the coil mounting bolt with the other earth wires and then the wire just hides under the tank until needed. When the thermo switch gives out - just lift the tank (you'll be topping up coolant anyway) and unplug the thermo switch and plug your new bullet connector into the white wire female that you unplugged the thermo switch from. Up and running in a few minutes with the fan on all the time. I still prefer to run the proper switch to save wear on the fan but if it gives out in the middle of a trial (like mine did last time), I'm ready for it. Chris Brisbane Australia. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeson660 Posted November 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 Thanks for the info - slowly learning! I was just about to ask if there's actually any disadvantage / reason why I don't just hard wire it and have the fan running all the time? I'd rather have it on all the time than wondering whether it should be coming on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guys Posted November 22, 2014 Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 An engine performs at its best at a certain temperature which you might not reach when the fan runs constantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethpawan Posted November 27, 2014 Report Share Posted November 27, 2014 This is a useful thread to a new member like me. I have a Gas Gas TXT 321. Thought I would be clever and do some preventive work, including replacing the thermo switch for a new one. Why or why did I not leave well alone as the bike was running beautifully. The new switch shot out when the engine warmed up. Okay I thought, maybe there is something wrong with the new thermostat. Solution: Put the old inline one back in, replace coolant and away to go....except it blew this one out too! Where am I going wrong? Anyone know the installation sequence for the thermoswitch as maybe I'm getting that wrong. Could it be air in the system? And would it be disastrous to by pass the switch altogether by hardwiring the two spades together and leave the fan run all the time? Am going to do another trial soon and really need to sort it out...Arrggghhhh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeson660 Posted November 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2014 This is a useful thread to a new member like me. I have a Gas Gas TXT 321. Thought I would be clever and do some preventive work, including replacing the thermo switch for a new one. Why or why did I not leave well alone as the bike was running beautifully. The new switch shot out when the engine warmed up. Okay I thought, maybe there is something wrong with the new thermostat. Solution: Put the old inline one back in, replace coolant and away to go....except it blew this one out too! Where am I going wrong? Anyone know the installation sequence for the thermoswitch as maybe I'm getting that wrong. Could it be air in the system? And would it be disastrous to by pass the switch altogether by hardwiring the two spades together and leave the fan run all the time? Am going to do another trial soon and really need to sort it out...Arrggghhhh! Hi Gareth Unless I'm being really simple (quite possible) the system shouldnt be under pressure as there's a overflow pipe. So there shouldn't really be any pressure certainly not enough to blow the thermo switch out of the rad. First thing I'd check is that the overflow pipe isnt blocked. In regards to hard wiring the fan as per above the disadvantages seem to be excessive wear on the fan and the engine may not reach optimum running temp. However for one trial it wouldn't hurt. Just my thoughts anyway. Cheers James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guys Posted November 27, 2014 Report Share Posted November 27, 2014 When the engine gets warm there certainly is some pressure in the cooling system, the overpressure protection, or overflow as you call it, opens at about 1 BAR or 14.5 PSI. One trial with the fan hard wired shouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeson660 Posted November 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2014 (edited) Told you I was probably being simple Stupid question but have you put the circlip back in? Edited November 27, 2014 by leeson660 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_earle Posted November 27, 2014 Report Share Posted November 27, 2014 (edited) I think the 321 has the better old style thermostat in line with the water pipe so It doesn't have a circlip. Its held in place with a metal retaining clip that most of the time needs a cable tie round it to help keep it in place. If you greased the switch when instaling and the clip is not securing properly then it will pop out at the slightest hint of pressure. Remove your switch again and the clip and rubber, Clean all the grease off it then fit the rubber and clip in the housing. Then insert the switch and use a cable tie to keep the tension on the clip. Edited November 27, 2014 by steve_earle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethpawan Posted November 27, 2014 Report Share Posted November 27, 2014 Thanks for your replies. I did wonder if I had put everything back correctly...! Hence my asking about the installation sequence. Can't find anything on the Internet about it but I did it this way: 1. Pushed new rubber sleeve into the aluminium inline housing hole. 2. Inserted thin circlip over the rubber sleeve and around the body of the aluminium housing. 3. Pushed new thermo switch into rubber sleeve and up against the circlip. 4. Reconnected the two spades to the electric wires. 5. Started bike. Not sure if that makes any sense but I tried to replace the thermo switch in the same way I took it out. Might have done something wrong though and am probably being really stupid. However, can't. Find anything on how to do it anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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