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Hard Starting Factory


cabby
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Dabster #9 You state "This bloke hasnt owned a gas gas for over 10 years so i wouldnt listen to a word he says."

You are wrong (as usual) and additionally I have fixed or helped to fix quite a number of friends GGs.

I am willing to bet a new Respol 4RT on it. Put up your cash or shut up and withdraw your post.

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Guys please act normal, this does not solve anything.

For the ts,

ks-pawl-idler.jpg

ks-old-idler-gear.jpg

GasGasIdlerGearandBolt_zps33ee922d.png

Here your see a picture of the inside behind the kickstarter cover. The gear is quite short as you see, actually only 5 theeth that really do the job. Thats why you will have to press the kickstarter down until you feel the pressure. (The first movement of the kickstarter you are putting the gear forward, when the engine is running the half gear will fall behind the round gear, because the full round gear is spinning offcoarse.)

If you kick the kickstarter to hard from the top you will beat the two parts into eachother very hard and thus killing it eventually.

Put pressure on it first with your feet, than look if its high enough to be kickable, otherwise losen it again and redo the trick. (the 2nd picture shows the phase from where you can kick it without damaging it). The third one shoes damage to the round gear.

Edited by crazybond700
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I've not had a chance to try things since this topic, was started. I have put in a new plug, and now fully aware of the correct procedure. I have on a couple of occasions started the bike from cold as per above and have had it start first time, but as said, not had the chance to run the bike for any length of time to see how this works with a warm bike, hopefully over the weekend I shall get a chance and report back.

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Dabster #9 You state "This bloke hasnt owned a gas gas for over 10 years so i wouldnt listen to a word he says."

You are wrong (as usual) and additionally I have fixed or helped to fix quite a number of friends GGs.

I am willing to bet a new Respol 4RT on it. Put up your cash or shut up and withdraw your post.

After all the rubbish mistruths and crap youve posted and complete twatery that people have had to put up with do you really expect me to a) withdraw my post B) believe a word you now say c) bother to try and understand what the f you mean?

Alaways happy to have a bet but a clear indications of what we are betting about would help.

Somewhere on here and im not going to trawl through you said you had a 2003 gas gas (i think), if it was any different to that my mistake. So rather than duck this one Ive put it in big letters below.

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make sure the float level is 100% and tickover fuel screw and so on are perfect.

Warm is usually ok but half cold can be tricky, and i sometimes use the choke when not cold. just try different things is just working out whats best for temprature more than anything.

i usually swap new plugs every couple of months.

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The photos and description are a good guide as to how and why you should kick a gasser correctly, but does it answer thedbf's original question?

Any progress on the original question?

Well I would first put new plug (with correct point distance), clean the carb (and write down the jet sizes).

Start simple...

Also heard some people put the bike flat before starting it, have no experience with that though

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This bloke hasnt owned a gas gas for over 10 years so i wouldnt listen to a word he says.

Nigel, I also don't always agree with Dadof2, but that was uncalled for.

On the subject:

My 2012 280 was more difficult to start when I went from a 1/80 fuel mixture to 1/50. Went back to 1/80 and it started back on 2nd kick when cold, 1st kick when hot.

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