totalshell Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 i'm a plumber use a rothenberger torch and mapp gas that ll get it red.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon v8 Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Agreed thats why you use a solder pot as the only heat that comes into contact with the cable and nipple is from the molten solder. We used to do all this stuff at school along with annealing, brazing, planishing, wrought iron work etc it was called metalwork. Doesn't anybody do metalwork nowadays ? We even did soldering in art along with enamelling and fabrication. I dont know what the worlds coming to most of the people i meet cant even use a lathe something else we did at secondary school. No wonder the countrys in a mess. Too many keyboards and not enough hands on stuff. I'll go and take my tablets now Oh as for solder i just used some of my old grandads stick solder left over from when he was a plumber. I bet people cant wipe a joint between copper and lead piping nowadays either Never too old to learn ! I like the solder pot job,have to make one up.Never had a problem making cables,but I can see the point behind it.Me and Ken,(Wallo) were some of the last youngsters to go through the apprentice training workshops at Westinghouse in Chippenham.(Nearly 35 years ago...)So at least I was taught how to solder,braze and flame weld properly.I seem to remember if you got more than about 3 red marks against you for failed or poor workmanship they would chuck you out ! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparks2 Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 (edited) Hi I agree with nearly all of the above, solder pot, not too hot etc, etc. But be careful with the Bakers soldering flux, it's very corrosive. I prefer to use 'Fluxite' soldering paste. I know, I know, all flux is corrosive, but 'Fluxite' is less corrosive than most and still effective. The last time I saw Bakers being used was to solder lightweight sheet steel rollers where the flux could be cleaned completely off afterwards. Edited November 17, 2014 by sparks2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ask greeves Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 i'm a plumber use a rothenberger torch and mapp gas that ll get it red.. Hello totshell, Benz-o-matic same as rothenberger...click da button...and go (once you own one of these, you'll never be without, great tool), yellow gas, sorry mean't yellow gas canister..the hot gas, as you say mapp gas. Fond memories of my plumbing days....poh runs down hill and you get paid on a thursday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jer Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 http://www.venhill.co.uk/Downloads/CableConstruction.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nh014 Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 I'm surprised no one mentioned the use of silver solder vs standard plumbers solder. I have had nipple end failures with plumbers solder but never with silver solder. Silver solder creates a much stronger chemical bond and will withstand much more abuse than plumbers solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Agree solder pot is the way. Spotless cleanliness also vital - prepare and assemble parts the shake in brake cleaner, them shake dry before fluxing. I use bakers plumbing flux (the blue paste) its aggressive enough but not as corrosive as bakers soldering fluid. On the subject of lack of skills, it is noticeable on engineering programs such as English wheel work or rebuilding spitfires there are no young craftsmen. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ask greeves Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 Nobodies mentioned the outer bowden cable, by design, it's easy to pinch the steel outer (restricting the internal diameter), i've found the solution, is either carefully square the end on a grindstone or linisher (removing the restriction), or alternatively, cut it square with a very thin cutting disc (found this the best solution when making aeroquipe hoses, cutting the stainless braiding). There's always a certain amount of delicacy involved, as with any engineering project. My problem has always been that little chrome bit, the bit that covers the outer cable and the plastic outer coating, sometimes just can't get that finishing ferrule, to fit nicely over the plastic coating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon v8 Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 A very sharp stanley knife blade to chamfer the plastic coating usually does the trick for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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