New Bike Nightmare.

[crazybond700]

i dont think the ignition map will make a noticably difference for a ''beginner''. I think a flywheel weight is a good addition for beginners, because this makes the engine much slower in progression and much more stable. Also the weight will add to the geroscopic effect.

Buying a bike that is produced for world class events and use it as beginners is offcoarse not the way, but well the dont make lots of other bikes right. An older model gg (pro pro) will be much more add to the skills of a beginner, you will really learn trials in a better way imo. But the dont produce them anymore so you will need some mechanical skills to be able to keep them on the ''road'' lol.

Edited November 25, 2014 by crazybond700

[chewy]

probably the wrong comment to make ..however if a bike was a bit quick off the mark we used to simply retard the ignition timing a few degrees...ok may run hotter but you guys generally only ride around short courses and queu for sections. I am seriosly considering a 250 racing for next purchase but they do need a good throttle hand....after 46 years of competion I should be able to cope but!!!!!

[perce]

I am seriosly considering a 250 racing for next purchase but they do need a good throttle hand....after 46 years of competion I should be able to cope but!!!!!

dellorto + inlet spacer + a big front sprocket should sort it out nicely.

[fastbelly]

Errr. Im not a beginner. I was a center expert in the eighties but then stopped riding when the monos came out and I could not afford one, then rode MX and Enduros to quite a high standard (expert) and then started riding trials again on 05. I'm just struggling on this bike.

[fastbelly]

7th from 17 in clubman. Could have been worse. Still not happy with that, but it was a mad event. No ride this weekend as I am off to the world darts at Butlins minehead to get smashed for three days then back on the bike the weekend after. If you guys dont mind Ill keep this thread going to record my progress or otherwise on the Gasser. Cant help feeling I have done a wrongun buying this bike, maybe should have been a Beta 200 or similar. I guess thats the problem with impulse purchases. Saw it, liked it, bought it.

Oh, BTW, the map switch set to wet. my belief is that it only drops the max revs and not much else. I am happy to be corrected.

Surprised by the sprocket wear on this bike, my 05 scorpa still on its originals, this bike has visible wear on rear already, only about ten rides on it. Probably the abrasive nature of the ground on Sunday. I guess the grade of ally used has much to do with it, everything on the Scorpa lasted for ever, I could not break it. It looks like I threw it off the top of Everest but nothing ever wore out of broke, quality bit of kit. Just heavy.

[fastbelly]

dellorto + inlet spacer + a big front sprocket should sort it out nicely.

Tell me more bro.

[fastbelly]

Them Scorpa's used to grip lovely but very front heavy, The heavy Yam engine with its heavy flywheel and crank made great soft, torque and was easiy to manage and dial in.

The gas gas is loads lighter and the engine has next to no crank or flywheel so will be zippy and quick to respond but harder to feel what the motor is doing till it spins up.

You need to learn the new character of the bike and you will need to get more weight to the rear of the bike without fear of flipping it.

The clutch comes into play more on a modern bike, Balance clutch slipping with throttle control as you easy it through the slippy bits.

Bend your legs and hang your backside back more, don't just stand on it, Ride in the bike not on the bike if you see what I mean.

Good Luck with it, you will feel fresher at the end of a trial than on the Scorpa.

On Sunday I did notice alot of high revs and controlling delivery with the clutch, this was the good experts. Was interesting to watch. I used the same technique on one section, pulled a tall gear lots of revs and controlled it with clutch, worked well in the conditions. May practice that a bit more.

It's like I am starting all over again.

Edited November 26, 2014 by fastbelly

[steve]

Really interesting to read other people's ideas and opinions, please do keep the thread going with updates.

It would be so simple if mud was mud and needed a specific technique wouldn't it. Trouble is every trial, or every section or even parts within a section need a different approach. The key is knowing what that is before you ride the section. As an experienced centre rider back in the day you probably rode twinshocks and monos like yamaha ty. The Scorpa is possibly the last modern bike with similar characteristics to what you were used to. However, you can adjust and when you do you'll never look back.

You do have to weight the rear with body positioning, on occasions you may need 4th gear, full noise and abuse the clutch. But you might also need 1st gear and such gentle throttle and ride virtually on the point of stalling.

Once you've practiced and sussed the new techniques you've only gotta figure out when and where to apply them. Simple.

[perce]

I personally wouldn't have gone down the flywheel weight / slow action throttle route.

First up I'd check if the bike had a 10 tooth front sprocket, the bike may have 11/42 on it, I've always found 10/42 or 10/41 makes it easier to hang onto the bike & reduce the need of using the clutch.

I don't particularly like flat slide carbs, they've got far too much whizz for my right hand. When Dabster last changed his bikes I rode the standard 250 back to back with a Racing 250, they were totally different, the standard bike being much more docile. So the second change I'd make is to fit a Delorto carb. It'll make the bike much more docile. A bonus of doing this is more consistent running in the variable UK weather conditions.

I have run 250 gassers with a carb spacer on the inlet, this also makes the bike softer, I'm unsure if anybody sells these anymore though.

The Racing model has a longer front exhaust pipe than a standard 250, this is also something to possibly look at altering.

[fastbelly]

Interesting, mine is the "racing" model so thats probably worse, lol. I would have thought fitting a smaller front sprocket would make it even more firery. No?

[perce]

Interesting, mine is the "racing" model so thats probably worse, lol. I would have thought fitting a smaller front sprocket would make it even more firery. No?

I've always found it takes the edge off & I can stand on it instead hang off the bloody thing.

10 / 42 is lower gearing than 11 / 42

if 10 tooth sprocket revolves a 1000 times it revolves the rear wheel 238 times 10 x 1000 div 42 = 238

if 11 tooth sprocket revolves a 1000 times it revolves the rear wheel 262 times 11 x 1000 div 42 = 262

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/27983-gasgas-pro-gearing-250280-and-300/

Can't remember why I was using a 41 rear, possibly something to do with them coming standard on a 4rt & everybody was taking them off, I was getting them cheap!

[nigel dabster]

It was.

[steve_earle]

I find 10/42 gearing is the way to go on the gasser. 2nd gear for almost every section unless a bit of a hill then 3rd. Bigger hills, 4th.

Mud and slimy stuff 3rd or even 4th. Launching steps 3rd.

Get used to using the clutch in higher gears.

Not sure how tall you are but for around 6 foot, Raise the handlebars by 12mm with spacers and flip the clamps round to set the bars slightly further forward. The easier way is to fit the adjustable S3 clamps then you can adjust more but they cost £80. The bike will steer better and make it easier to get some weight on the back wheel, also it will take strain off your arms and back as you will be more upright.

Done this on a beta, sherco and 2 gassers now.

[fastbelly]

Ok, back out on the bike at Bayford Wood trial. In a word.... fantastic improvement. I could much easier judge the new configuration with the flywheel weight in the conditions today. It was a very sippery trial again however today I could tell the difference being made by the weight, it has mellowed the motor and made it much more tractable for me. So I am well pleased.

I have been thinking alot about the comments being made on here with respect to riding the rear wheel and body position and I made a real effort to change things up and ride a little different and again this has really helped. Yes it's much more sensitive to rider input than my old Scorpa, however now I am coming to terms with it I think I am going to get better and better on it.

For the first time since the wet weather has come along I really am starting to enjoy riding this bike.

A set of bar risers will probably be the next mod just to unload the front a little.

Wahey, a bike I can enjoy once more.

Dunno how the results will look but either way, I know I am riding it much better. Apart from two stupid fives due to stalling twice dropping in to a gully. Nowt to do with the bike, just me being a ****!!!

Thanks for all the advice chaps.

I'm doing the Turkey Trot at Braintree next weekend so lets hope the improvements continue.

[lineaway]

Bar risers are never needed, but each to there own choices. How many short people raise the pegs? Basic human anatomy. Arm span = Height.