daz69 Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 (edited) Hi I am a. Swindon member with a problem setting my ignition timing on my newly rebuilt 1976 350 sherpa.I have set up timing on other bikes before but am losing the plot with this one.I am trying to get my timing to 2.75 mm btc using a spark plug gauge ant test light to show when points are open.but I can only get to 3 mm there or there abouts ant that is with stator plate fully advanced (fully clockwise with no more slot left) am I doing somthing wrong as needing more advance when I am all ready at full adjust seems wrong ? Read a post on here recently from a member called mudferrett with the identical problem but can't find the out come of his post after listing his problem. Any help or advice greatly appreciated losing the plot at the moment !!!!!!##!# Edited January 4, 2015 by daz69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Are the points new. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpa325 Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 The flywheel should be rotated counterclockwise when checking the timing. To retard the timing [from 3mm to 2.75mm] the backing plate should be rotated counterclockwise. Cheers Greg 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 have a few beers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 If you grow weary trying to stand on your head and pulling the flywheel off, set the plate about in the middle & check again, you can then move the point gap slightly to achieve somewhere close to 2.75 goal. (don't have to be perfect) Laying the bike down while going at this helps. Please be sure to add a proper condenser under tank. (not an oem please) Good Luck Larry 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daz69 Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Thanks for all you advice especially the beers they helped.found out the problem today with the help of a friend at work with a good dial gauge to check my attempt at setting with basic plug gauge.I was using a cut out centre from a spare generator flywheel the same type and part number just to have more access to points.so checked and reset to get 2.75 btdc then fitted my generator an rechecked setting found that I now had 0.4 mm btdc well retarded and that's including me !!! turns out wear on cam centre on cut out tool causing the problem reset the timing the fiddly way through Windows in flywheel I was using taking on and off to tweak stator plate to my 2.75 setting and bike fired up first time so all sorted just waiting for my new needle and bigger pilot jet for my o k o carb and then it's getting dirty. Thanks again this is a great forum. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1973tr6 Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Just out of interest, what size slow jet are you going to fit? I have just put on an OKO on my 350 and find it smooth but sluggish on transition from idle. I put in the largest jet supplied with the carb (55 or 58??) can't quite read the stamped numbers. It cured the flat spot but it was still sluggish. I set the ignition timing accurately (it was guessed at initially) to 2.54mm btdc and promptly lost the spring washer........ went to try and get a new washer and failed.... it was New Years Day after all... got back and then couldn't find the nut either so I haven't been able to check if the revised timing has helped. There must be a parallel universe in my garage... either that or a black hole that swallows stuff. The guy at Hugh's Bultaco had a good laugh at me expense when I phoned to order a new nut and washer. When I told my wife I had lost a nut, she just smirked......... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daz69 Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Hi I am currently using stock setup supplied with my 26 mm o k o which I bought in the UK after extensive searching on the net to find a genuine Taiwan made carb not a Chinese copy ( I'm sure you've heard the horror stories ) currently fitted with 112 main jet k44 needle and 45 pilot jet but after getting some great advice from Roger at atlantictrials.com I am waiting for a new needle which is a jjh type and I am going up 2 sizes on pilot which is a 50 pilot so will try these and post my findings when fitted.if you need setup advice Atlantic trials are o k o gurus so speak to them if your having problems they are very helpful.I set my timing to 2.75 btdc after recommendations on here from members and is spot on now . Good luck regards Darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trum Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Hello everyone, just fitted a set of new points on my bul, I've set the gap exactly the same as the old ones, so I'm hoping it will run ok???? I will find out today when I start it... Was too late last night and my neighbour moans at me all the time!!! Was just wondering what oil I should put on the felt pad on the points though please?? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullylover Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 I always use a dab of grease on the felt pad. It does not need much. I also put some on the crank hole of the flywheel to help it come off easier. I got into that habit years ago when over here Femsa flywheel pullers were as rare as hens teeth. Graham. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trum Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Thanks graham, I went and put a dab of grease on them earlier, and started it up to check the new points were ok, like I said I gapped them exactly the same as the old ones and runs spot on, only trouble is if I try to gap the points at what the tolerances are it won't spark!! Have to close the gap up to very small for a spark which is healthy and blue and runs spot on, am I right in thinking that the timing maybe slightly advanced if I have to close the gap right up on the points??? Like I say if there set to what I've seen on here then I get no spark.going to leave as it is for now as it runs ok and smooth at idle and pulls strong and smoothly, also got a trial tomorrow so don't want to bugger it up all together!!! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Trum, If it is running, leave it alone for now.(trial tomorrow) You do have an automotive condenser under the tank??? Next week, time it close with dial indicator/or vernier gauge. Something is amiss, you don't say how close the points are. Good luck tomorrow. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trum Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Thanks Larry, yes i will leave it alone for now as you say and look properly next week, I do have automotive condenser under my tank so that's ok, if I'm honest I've forgotten what size the feauler gauge was, il look tomorrow as I put a black felt tip pen mark on the one I used so I knew it was the one I'd used on the old points, but on this site id seen a thread saying they need to be between 0.35 and 0.45, is this correct?? I can't get a spark with them at 0.35, it's smaller than that for sure! Like I say i will let you know the size gauge it is tomorrow when I look in my tool box, thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Trum, 0.35 to o.45; .013 to .017 is correct per the manual,however it is not law IMHO. Point setting with flywheel in place is a pain, best done w/bike laying down. Don't know why it wont fire @ spec setting, But if we are firing somewhere in tolerance timing wise, so be it.(as long as it fires)!! You are probably going to move the backing plate if you are to far out of spec to MAINTAIN the point gap you now have.(a little point gap change= lot of timing change) Be sure when removing & replacing flywheel have key way @ 6:00 so as not to bump points with cam. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guys Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 The 0.35 to 0.45 mm point gap is there so the points open on the steep part of the cam and not the shallower, top part of the cam. When they open on the steep part, in other words, when the points open quickly, you get the best spark and the least chance of burned points. At least thats what they teached me at school a long long time ago... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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