Fantic 245 Crankshaft Oil Seals

[pierre66]

Do you have to split the engine to change the crankshaft oil seals on a Fantic 245?

I`ve read you do on a 240 but not on a 200 or (I think) a 305.

Cheers.

[ask greeves]

Hi, No you donot have to split the crankcases. from memory, the reed valve engines do have a different oil seal, to the piston controlled engines. Have ordered oil seals from the so called experts , and have been sent seals for the 300/303-241 engine . All forward kick engines apart from the original 240, the seals can be changed in situ (if your clever enough).

[pierre66]

Thanks for that.

Would you elaborate on the "if you`re clever enough" bit please? Any tips would be appreciated.

While I`m here a couple of other questions if I may.

Is the flywheel nut left or right hand thread?

On the clutch pressure plate there is an arrow, what should that line up with? I can`t see any marks on the basket.

I know on my road bike the pressure plate has to go back in a certain way, I did marked the plate and basket before I removed them.

If the previous owner has put the pressure plate in the wrong place this could be why he said the clutch was dragging.

If a picture would explain this better I`ll post one later when I`m not so oily

[grib]

The LH seal is in a separate carrier that is held in place by 3 screws - make sure the O ring between the carrier & crank cases is in good condition. The more difficult one is the RH one - you will need to hook it out with something without damaging the sealing surface of the crank.

Flywheel nut is a normal RH thread, and the arrow on the pressure plate lines up with a dimple on the clutch hub not the basket. I can look up the torque settings for when you put it back together if you like?

Edited December 21, 2014 by grib

[pierre66]

That`s brilliant, thanks.

The torque settings would be helpful, if it`s not any trouble.

[ask greeves]

Hello, Mr Grib's got it spot on, also be careful on the drive side seal, the lip of the seal, can catch on the 'sharp edge' when assembling (and unhook the spring and turn the lip on the seal), with regard to the timing side seal, best way to extrecate, is with self tapping screws (maybe with a slide hammer), screwed into the old oil seal (but will destroy the old seal), but great care is needed, as not to damage the bearing behind the seal. No probs 'turning the seal' on the timing side, as the taper for the flywheel, acts as a 'natrual lead' for fitting the timing side seal.

[grib]

Just remembered there is also an O ring between the spacer that sits inside the LH crank seal and the crank itself - you can see it on the parts list above.

Edited December 21, 2014 by grib

[pierre66]

Thanks again guys, very helpful.

Now I`ve found the mark on the clutch hub, (don`t know how I missed it, a trip to specsavers maybe ) I can tell you the pressure plate was one hole out.

I`ve got it all completely stripped down now, barring the engine.

The biggest surprise so far was the swingarm spindle sliding straight out. Shame the lower tapered roller bearing on the stem fell to pieces leaving the inner part stuck fast!

[ask greeves]

Mr Pierre, I must add, I personally was never happy, trying to replace the timing side oil seal in situ. My previous answers were purely a reply to your question.