john b Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Hi there Apologies for what might seem like an obvious question, but I'm new to Villiers engines ! I want to change the gearbox sprocket on my 8E engine to lower first gear - first glance doesn't look as easy as it is on all the other bikes I have - just thought I would ask advice before I start cheers John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird387 Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Hi John b, Sorry mate, but in the bad old days, Mr Villiers knew best, so most riders set the bottom gear to their preference by changing the rear wheel sprocket, since most bikes had detachable rear sprockets and there were plenty of sprocket manufacturers, like for example Roger Maughfling at Knucklas near Knighton in mid-Wales, who had bought a load of sprocket cutting tools as various manufacturers went to the wall, so that he could offer a vast selection of sprockets in all sorts of weird and wonderful materials. That was the cheap and cheerful way, the more expensive route was to buy a complete clutch cage/sprocket assembly and a different crankshaft sprocket. There was a limit to that potential because there was not very much spare space in the primary chaincase to fit a larger clutch cage sprocket. Others found odd gearbox drive sprockets with a tooth or two less than the standard, mainly from very old bikes in scrapyards. But we still managed to enjoy ourselves............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ask greeves Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 You would have to remove 1st outer clutch cover, 2nd complete clutch assemble and front (engine) drive sprocket and chain, 3rd remove inner clutch cover, then you'll be at the(final drive) sprocket and nut. I'd make sure first that the correct size sprocket, that you require, are available to purchase, The other alternative, is a bigger rear wheel sprocket, or even maybe a smaller engine sprocket, but that would put more torque through the clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john b Posted January 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Many thanks for the replies I think bigger rear wheel sprocket may be the way to go based upon the replies I was surprised at how well it pulls from tickover with no clutch anyway (almost 4 stroke like!) so may just be a case of getting used to it. My son (nearly 13) will be riding it in VMCC trials this year (as well as his TLM50 in twinshock trials - see below) .....looking forward to 2015 ! Ill be getting beaten by him on my TLR200 and Sprite ! cheers and Happy new year to everyone John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird387 Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Hi John, Tip from someone who has ridden many. many Villiers engined bikes - forget the modern clutch slipping mode. The clutch was used to get the bike started, after that LEAVE IT ALONE. If you feel it is going to die, move your body weight forward to reduce the weight on the back tyre contact point so that it can slip a little. That trick I learned from the Lampkins when they were issued with the C15Ts after riding 500cc Gold Stars, slipping the clutch can result in loading the feeble motor too much both on little BSAs and Villiers, both work far better when you chose a rev range, set the throttle and then vary the drive by slipping the rear wheel a tad......... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john b Posted January 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Many thanks for the reply I think that's how I was riding (and my son riding) after a while today. I said leave the clutch completely alone - it will pull on tick over, and even if you wind the throttle on hard, its not like a modern bike and wont leap out of your hands. It seems a nice little bike to ride (1955 James Captain) - its very small and light, and like I said the power delivery surprised me (almost 4 stroke - will pull from nothing). I may get a new bigger tooth back sprocket for it, or just let Chris get used to riding it as it. thanks again John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashplate Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 your onto it John, every old classic has it's own foibles and so requires different riding styles.....adds to the fun aye? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird387 Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Hi John, Are you sure it's a James Captain - that was the road bike, the trials model was the James Commando, which, incidentally, was my first actual competition bike and also the first trials bike that Arthur Lampkin had. Whatever, enjoy it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john b Posted January 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Thanks for the reply I'm a pre 65 newcomer so may well be (anything post 1980 I'm ok on !) It was sold as a converted captain - it has v5 but was first registered a couple of years ago. Any advice on it welcome ! (Another photo below) Cheers John 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruffmutt Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Hi John, re Villiers gearing, assuming youve got the standard ratio gearbox, your options are limited. On my James commando with std ratio Albion gearbox i use 13 tooth gearbox sprocket, and 73 tooth rear. This gives a usable 1st and 2nd gear but very low top speed. On my Ruffmutt( Dalesman frame, 8e engine} i use the wide ratio Albion gearbox with 13 on the front and 63 rear which seems to be the optimum setting, but, the wide ratio gearboxes are like hens teeth. Regarding the clutch, do yourself a favour and invest in a 9e coversion, available from Nametab or Villiers services, not cheap but totally transform the riding experience. Ultimately, enjoy the bike for what it is. If you need any help or advise with Villiers engines, get in touch. Trev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john b Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Thanks Trev I spoke to villiers services who were very helpful. In the first instance im going to try a 14t front sprocket (on the bike is a 17t) While im doing this i'll check the clutch out. Thanks for the advice, and im sure you will see me and my son out and about on classic and twinshock trials this year Cheers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird387 Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 (edited) Hi john b Here's a photo of a James Commando, which I am confident yours probably is, whoever raised the V5 probably identified it incorrectly as a Captain! The lightweight long strut that goes from the downtube below the saddle then picks up on the top suspension area was inevitably conserved in the back of the garage as soon as you got your new bike home from the dealers......... The illustrated bike also had the usual modification of swopping the James forks for a pair of BSA units from a C11, C10L - these days a C15, I suppose. We used to do that because the fork top outer tubes used to corrode just below the lower yoke and then the whole lot would snap when you used the brake........ Cheers Edited January 5, 2015 by laird387 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john b Posted January 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Thanks for the photo! Definitely looks very similar to mine, and any other photos appreciated Cheers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird387 Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 (edited) Hi John, There are 30.000+ images in my archive - and growing daily - the best way to see them is to take out a subscription to ORRe - and, as an appetiser, here is another little Jimmy in action. Note it was taken when the bike was new, since it's a works bike, and in those days ball-ended levers were not mandatory. Also those are the standard fron forks. Cheers Deryk Edited January 6, 2015 by laird387 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john b Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Hi Deryk Took your advice and subscribed - an excellent magazine ! Many thanks John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.