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Bike On The Back Of My Car...


gasgas125otis
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Thought i'd jump on this thread for a bit of support...

 

I have an Audi A4 Avant / Estate S-Line....and it seems there is no flange type tow bar that will fit :( ...only swan neck...

 

Unfortunately the Dave Cooper bike racks - http://www.davecooper.co.uk/bike-racks/motorcycle-racks only work on the flange type.

 

I have been told that it is possible to get a swan neck with a extra section for bolt on attachments (but cannot find one for my car) or I also found this adapter - http://www.wilmond.co.uk/clam-shell-swan-neck-to-flange-adaptor.html

 

Has anyone had any experience of using these or indeed had the same problem?  I am a bit concerned that this is probably only designed for push bike carriers etc.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

James

 

PS.  No where to store a trailer so that option wouldn't work for me.... ;)

 

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It is definitely an option...but the problem is I really am limited on storage space! :s  ...The bike is currently hiding in the house :P

 

I have done a big more research though and have been reliably informed that the swan to flange adapters are tested rigorously to up to 7 times the rated value (which is 100kg) so there should be no problem there.

So the way I look at it is to buy a tow bar with a nose weight rated at 100KG then that leaves the following figures (err-ing on the heavier side for safety):

 

Bike: 70KG

Fuel: 3KG

Bike Rack: 15KG

Mud allowance: 5KG

 

Total = 93KG, which is 7KG under the official rating of the adapter and the tow bar :)

 

Worst comes to worst I could fit a couple of load straps to the bike rack and jam them in the boot of the car :)

 

Not missing anything am I?

 

Thank you :)

 

James

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I think the fist thing to consider is the maximum nose weight allowed on the tow bar, most cars from memory are only about 75 kg

My daily driver is only 80kg but I have an old Discovery that's 150 so ok on that but too heavy for my Citroen

Very good info here

http://www.caravanclub.co.uk/media/6678669/noseweights-mo.pdf

 

Remember all it takes is a Police man who starts digging and may pull you over or if you have an accident the insurance will be looking for ways not to pay out, and carrying over the allowed nose weight will let them try and not pay.

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  • 5 months later...

all this stuff about nose weights and insurance companies.. has anyone on this site ever been sucessfully prosecuted or had their insurance revoked for using a rack with a bike on.. i think i can guess the answer..  

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all this stuff about nose weights and insurance companies.. has anyone on this site ever been sucessfully prosecuted or had their insurance revoked for using a rack with a bike on.. i think i can guess the answer..  

Never had a problem, and done quite a few miles with a rack on the back :thumbup: 

 

I now use a trailer, but only because I now tow two bikes!

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  • 3 months later...

I was thinking of using a bike rack but reading this thread got me thinking and investigating a bit more.

Our Mazda 3 is only rated at 75Kg. By the time you've added the weight of the rack, bike, lighting board, ties etc your going to be mighty close to the cars limit.

Even with the limits imposed on towing for newer drivers (750Kg) a lightweight 3 bike trailer is still well within the limit. Only issue is where to store a trailer.

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Not sure where you are Smokey, but you can get folding trailers that will stand against a wall.  I am not sure on size or cost but have seen them when I was looking into what I wanted for moving my families trials bikes around.  

 

Good luck.

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The guy I used to garage with at the Manx had one of the folding trailers very neat and folded into a very small space, he could fit it folded in the back of his car! Having looked at the prices they are 2-3 times the cost of a normal trailer!

I was hoping to take my bike to Yorkshire over Christmas and try and take in an event up there without having to take two vehicles. I will try and borrow a trailer.

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  • 1 month later...

The guy I used to garage with at the Manx had one of the folding trailers very neat and folded into a very small space, he could fit it folded in the back of his car! Having looked at the prices they are 2-3 times the cost of a normal trailer!

I was hoping to take my bike to Yorkshire over Christmas and try and take in an event up there without having to take two vehicles. I will try and borrow a trailer.

Dave Cooper (much-mentioned on this thread already) makes a collapsible trailer (I hope he means dismantleable trailer!) that is only about the same cost as his standard trailers. It's probably the way I am going to go, but I have a few reservations at the moment:

  • It's not totally clear on his website how they dismantle (I think the single version is in three pieces and there are 2 bolts per joint)
  • They look a little flimsy (Just two bits of tube; no triangulation)
  • There is no front-wheel-stop
  • On the other hand, I like the idea of zinc plating

Can anyone confirm or allay my concerns?

 

In the first place I came at this with a view to buying a rack because I think they look really neat and clever. But:

  • My car has a max nose load of 75kg, which would be exceeded by even the lightest modern trials bike when you've added in the rack and lightboard.
  • One slip while loading or unloading and there's a chance of a nasty bash on the back of the car.
  • With the bike loaded, access to the boot is going to be difficult or impossible. So you have to change clothes and pack away tools, etc before loading a muddy bike back onto the car. Not ideal.
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As a owner of a Dave Cooper take to bits trailer I have your answer.It is excellent! 6 bolts and its built or dismantled.....3 peices AXLE with rubber torsion type suspension and BED is in 2 parts  simplicity itself. A towing board with lights is held on with a couple of bungees  3 or4 ratchet straps and a special nylon webbing strap that straddles the handlebars an'd the bike is secure....[ as long as you compress the forks enough when you strap it on so they are under tension] Handles absolutely excellent on the road no bouncing about or skittish stuff and I have been on the minutes a few times so am talking 60MPH on open country roads not tootlin about. Only thing is the finish goes off in minutes so if your bothered about keeping things looking slik then it needs powder/nylon coating and the boxes that are the independent suspension that are on the axle beam; need painting with hammerite etc plus grease the backs of the wheel hubs/carriers or it will look 10 years old after using it once when it is raining[not that that will be a problem in Britain].It is not that small dismantled; but it means you can keep it inside away from the naughty people and constant rain.

 

You've almost convinced me ;) , but you've thrown a slight doubt onto something that I thought was a strength: the finish. A zinc-plate-and-passivate finish should be durable but I suppose if the passivation isn't done right then you've got plain zinc and that's quickly going to form a white powdery oxide. Is that what you're suggesting?

 

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