daveflave2nd Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) I'm pretty new to trials and fancy a newer bike. I really wanted a 4 stroke Beta but I just can't find one. I'm now looking at 2 strokes again. I've come across a 2013 TR280i but know nothing about them. I wouldn't even know how to identify it as a 2013 model? What's a good price for one of these and what should I be looking out for? Cheers! Edited January 17, 2015 by daveflave2nd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj46 Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 Interested to see some replies to this also as i'm thinking of a 2012 for my first bike. 2013's have a smooth unit while and flexy mudguard while the 2012's have a ribbed seat unit and a curvier mudguard. From what i've read the startings an issue, airfilters are a pain on pre 2013 bikes, gearboxes can be an issue and clutches drag, there also seems to be all manner of maps available for them. It would be good to hear owners texperiences first hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digga Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) Hi Dave & JJ, There is a Vin Number on the frame up near the steering head which will tell you what year it is. As far as "what to look out for" is a tricky question with out going over it with a "fine tooth comb" for hours and riding it for a while. I think the 2013 came with a high compression head as standard if my memory serves me right, I think that made them a bit of a "bugger " to kick,it should also have the later air cleaner kit which makes for easier air filter service (unlike the 2011 & 2012). That is also correct, the 2013 had the different shape/flexible rear guard. As far as gearbox problems went, some guys experienced selector shaft problem, usually self inflicted by whacking them on a rock or someone litterally jumping on the gear lever. You need to sit the bike on a stand and check the rear linkage for movement/play, the Ossa has teflon coated bushes not bearings, they seem to last pretty well though. Same goes for checking the wheel bearings,steering head bearings. If you havent had an Ossa before you may want to do some reading regarding installing a "battery pack" to aid starting, this has been a debatable issue, but I can assure you after owning an Ossa for the last 21/2 yrs it transforms the starting of the bike and solves any starting issues they had. You will find some interesting reading in earlier threads on the forum here under Ossa obviously. I have a 2012 that we recently put a genuine 300 kit on and have also just done a full "2014 Factory R makeover" on, including plastics,wiring harness,decals,full Termignoni Exhaust system,none of which would have been possible without the help of an extremely talented friend of mine in the paint industry who also has an Ossa and a J/Gas. Hope this gives you some insight, if you want some serious knowledge about the Ossa you could contact PeterB from New Zealand, he lives and breathes Ossa's and will advise you on the "does and donts". Edited January 17, 2015 by digga 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveflave2nd Posted January 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Thanks for he info guys. I now know its a 2012 model but it's still cheap. I'm probably going to give it a miss and continue my search for a 4 stroke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj46 Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Dave have you been looking at the one on Ebay thats listed as a 2013? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveflave2nd Posted January 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Yeah that's it. £2000 will buy it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj46 Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 (edited) Bit strange that, i also contacted him. List it at a £2400 start price but accept £2000? Also found it strange that the hole on the rear caliper has been sliced off flush with a grinder - looking at pics of others it seems to be wear a lock can be fitted. Edited January 18, 2015 by jj46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveflave2nd Posted January 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 I didn't have a good feeling about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boghog Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 daveflave , i have sent you a pm , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manx2day Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 PM sent Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k s Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 I bought mine 280 in 2013, 5 months old and the bike was like new when I got it. I still have it, and I love it! When I bought it I was totally novise! And I still is :-). There was only one problem: hard to start, but I made a small modification with a 9 volt battery, that helps a lot. But you have to find a good one, well maintainced. If you can find a club someone can help you? I do live in Norway and competid now and then, because of my son is driving. Its really fun :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redslayer Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 (edited) I've just started getting into trials - never ridden one until last week. I bought an OSSA TR280i 2011. Why, when I knew nothing about trials bikes? Innovation. Especially innovation that makes sense without being a trials guru. 1) Everything on the bike (that matters) is alloy (and it's light). 2) The petrol tank is alloy, external and directly behind the front wheel. 3) The radiator is behind that fuel tank - thus shielded from mud & crap. 4) The barrel points backwards rather than vertical. 5) This allegedly enables the air filter to sit between the tank and the radiator at the front, down into the fuel injector and the exhaust to come out of the barrel to the rear. This shortens the exhaust significantly - there is no exhaust curling around the front of the bike - it comes straight out of the barrel to the rear and to the silencer. 6) As mentioned above - it's fuel injected - no carb. 7) Don't think that this is pure OSSA, but the rear wheel has a tubeless system where the spokes on the rim are held by a nut, where the hole into the rim is permanently sealed and the spoke slots into the nut. Allegedly ensures no air leaks via the spokes. http://www.trialendurodirect.com/products.php?images&FABA_REAR_wheels_from_Italy_1187ℑ=2092 As for starting it - yep - it's currently taking me approx 20 kicks consistently from cold. Honestly - by the time I've got it booted - I'm back to the car for a brew and a fag! I've tried the 9v battery trick - no effect. Others have kicked it in 2, but this wasn't really a scientific comparison. I still refuse to believe it's my technique. (If it becomes apparent that it is - I WILL come back here, cap in hand, and admit it). I understand that the ECU can be remapped and that there are about 3 mappings. Having it serviced atm and will take it to a specialist to let them tell me - "it's all about technique". ATB, Red Edited April 21, 2015 by redslayer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus54 Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 There are newer maps that seem to help. A lot really is how you start it. 1. Do not touch the throttle!! 2. If no easy start,first kick a brisk one but not really try to start (wakes up the ECU and charges the cap) 3. Take up the slack in the starter and give it a fast, hard kick. Mine is newer (2014) with Easystart system and very rarely is hard to start. If the sparking plug gets old it is harder, if he aftermarket spark arrestor plugs up it is hard to start. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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