gaby Posted January 12, 2004 Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 Have an '01 290. One of the two pinch bolts at the bottom of the fork broke in half. I have been riding with just one bolt doing the "pinching". Can I get away with this or am I risking more damage to the fork leg? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clean machine Posted January 12, 2004 Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 heres a tip dnt try drill it out cos the fork leg is softer so the drill flys off the stud as it is hard and staright into fork leg not good!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted January 13, 2004 Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 I'd definitely fix it. You're asking for trouble running it like that. If the uneven stress cracks the clamp, you'll really be bummed out. I would punch the broken bolt as deeply as possible to keep the bit from slipping and make some sort of pilot to go through the outer hole to keep the bit centered. You could use hardwood dowel or aluminum rod.. Put a piece as tightly as possible in the hole and drill through the center. This will keep your bit centered as you drill the bolt. Try left-handed bits. Most of the time they walk the bolt right out as you drill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaby Posted January 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 Good call with the dowel Charlie, that's what I'll do. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted January 17, 2004 Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 Did you fix it yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaby Posted January 17, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 Hope to get at it this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpa Posted January 17, 2004 Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 I'm in the process of replacing the lower leg on a 99 at this time due to a crack in the same spot. Take my word for it; even if you have to bring it to a machine shop to have it done properly, it will be worth it in the long run. And remember, they Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaby Posted January 17, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 Thanks for the collaborative story Sherpa. I don't want to find myself in your shoes to be sure. I PROMISE I'll fix it before I take another ride! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marky g Posted January 17, 2004 Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 A tip a fitter gave me at work years ago for the removel of broken studs. Centre pop the stud first, if it's a 8mm stud your dealing with start off with a small bit....say 4mm...now heres the key..... only drill into the stud 5mm, then use a 7.5mm bit and just go down to the 5mm, then go back to the 4mm bit and repeat the process untill you reach the end of the stud. This way you dont never go off center, when you finished drilling get a pair of narrow plaires and just pull at the thread, it should just pull out like a spring Worked for me twice so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted January 18, 2004 Report Share Posted January 18, 2004 You can also figure out how deep you can safely go, and wrap tape around the drill bit to make a stop so you don't go any deeper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted January 18, 2004 Report Share Posted January 18, 2004 A couple of well placed dabs of weld will give you a nice handle to grab and pull that "stud" out with, and if it does not work, you are no worse off than when you started. If you get walking just a bit with a drill, it will much prefer the soft aluminum to the steel of that bolt. What do you think Charlie???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted January 18, 2004 Report Share Posted January 18, 2004 Absolutely. Not only do you get something to hold on to, but the heat from the weld helps loosen things up. I get neck races out like this. Run a bead around them, and they practically drop out. I just never figure folks have a MIG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted January 18, 2004 Report Share Posted January 18, 2004 If you get walking just a bit with a drill, it will much prefer the soft aluminum to the steel of that bolt. I like the way you put that. You think aluminum isn't magnetic? Get a drill bit near it and watch the attraction! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted January 18, 2004 Report Share Posted January 18, 2004 For me personally, the magnetic attraction of the aluminum is directly proportional to the cost of the piece and whether I own it or the Army does My drill wants to wander into a $200 aluminum hub, much quicker than into a $60,000 rotor blade for some reason! As my sister said after she got married, "I just assumed that you went out into any mans garage and there was a big red toolbox and 5 welders lined up!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaby Posted April 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2004 Hey, I finally got around to removing that pesky bolt! Charlie, the dowel rod worked like a charm. I then used an extractor to back out the remainder of the bolt. I chased the threads for good measure...Back in business!!! Thanks everybody for the tips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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