Evo Rear Suspension Play

[goudrons]

My 2014 Evo 300 has noticable play in the rear suspension set up.

There is a definite, muted "clack" when the end of the swinging arm is manipulated up and down, accompanied by several millimetres of end play.

Upon inspection, it's hard to pinpoint where it's actually coming from, none of the joints seem to have play, yet whatever has is being magnified by the swinging arm.

I've already rebuilt the dog bone bearings, seals and bushes which did reduce the play by a small amount, then check and regrease the bearing in the link to the swinging arm along with the swinging arm bearings and bushes (which all appear good) then retighted everything to factory spec, but the "clack" is still there.

The only thing I did notice was is a small amount of "swing" to the shock when the swinging arm is manipulated, it sort of pendulums (back to front) slightly at the bottom, it's hard to explain, but it seems to do this in relation to the play felt at the end of the swinging arm, if you know what I meant.

So this now has me thinking that the lower shock eye bush may need replacing, though it's hard to actually feel play in it.

So now the questions:

Is there meant to be any play in the setup?

Should I just except it?

Coming from several Rev3's I never had to worry about linkages and this sort of business. (why did they change it?)

Is there an easy way of replacing these shock eye bearing?

Or is it just a matter of squeezing them out and in with a tube (socket) in a vice?

Would one need to consider new bolts in the shock eye to go along with the new bushes?

Thanks in advance.

[p@ul250]

Next time you have it stripped down for greasing (I do mine every two months and I don't use a jet wash on the area of the bearings) have a good look at all the top hat bushes (inner part of the bearings). You may find that some of them have developed grooves/notches on the outside face where the needle bearings have hammered them in. If so this will be the exces play. They are quite cheap to replace, also replace any needle bearings that have been paired with bushes that show signs of grooves/notches. When reassembling sit the bike on its wheels before you torque all the bolts up and check them regularly.

The swinging of the bottom of the shock is consequence of the way the rising rate suspension works.Have a look at the way the knuckle (right angled piece with three holes that sits between the swingarm, dog bones and the shock) moves as the suspension is compressed.

All the bearings have and need a very small amount of clearance or they wouldn't be able to work. Unfortunately this clearances is magnified by the length of the swingarm.

As for why Beta changed the suspension setup from the way it was on the Rev 3. The Rev 3 was last centuries technology and if you don't Evolve you die.

I would be very surprised to find the shock bushings needing replacing on a 2014 Evo. As for replacing the bolts, have a look at each one and replace if they are showing signs of a step or groove on the shaft (I'd only expect this on a 2014 if you had been riding round with loose bolts or competing in the WTC ).

The 2014 300 Evo I have has done the Ssdt (ridden to twelfth place by young Jack Sheppard) and has then pulled/supported the weight of a sidecar and passenger. I have so far had to replace two dog bone seals and one top hat bush ( the side/rim was chipped by a rock) Keep it clean! keep it greased! and it will last.

I hope this helps

[goudrons]

Thanks for the reply,

Mine too had a challenging start to it's first year, it was a dealer's bike that had done last years SSDT and I gather a few other larger events, though I gather it didn't finish as high as yours!

The dog bones have had new bushes, bearings and seal, but I replaced the bearing with some decent branded ones, there was some wear on the bushes and the larger ones didn't measure evenly. so they went in the bin.

The bearings and bushes in the link/knuckle to the underside of the swinging arm all appear ok, the bush measure evenly where they fit the bearings, so I'm confident that joint is ok.

They all got cleaned and regreased with marine grease and they feel tight as a drum.

So I'm guessing any play now is in the shock eyes and/or bolts through them, but I'm trying to gather how much should there be, if any or will replacing them make a difference?

If I get a chance this evening, I may try rigging up a way of measuring the play at the axle, see exactly how much is there.

I'm not convinced this arrangement is a step forward from the Rev3, didn't the Techno, Zero, Sync and Tr mono's all have these linkages, though I gather there were limits to the Rev3's arrangement, not that I noticed!

Also, my old Rev3's and Zero before them never filled it's airbox with water at the first sight of a puddle.

If it fills up anymore I'm gonna find ducks and fish in there!

[p@ul250]

I'm not convinced this arrangement is a step forward from the Rev3, didn't the Techno, Zero, Sync and Tr mono's all have these linkages, though I gather there were limits to the Rev3's arrangement, not that I noticed!

Also, my old Rev3's and Zero before them never filled it's airbox with water at the first sight of a puddle.

If it fills up anymore I'm gonna find ducks and fish in there!

I know what you're saying about the old set up on the Rev 3. But I think at the highest level the top riders were needing the change and so Joe Public will want it also. Just look at the number of clubman riders about on Raga replicas, Repsol Hondas and Evo factory replicas.

As for the water in the air box try a bit of reticulated foam (pond filter foam) cut to fill the gap in the frame around the top shock mount. Also at wet trials I duck tape the airbox access hatch in the rear mudguard/seat. With the outfit I quite often land up standing with my right foot on the seat area and have noticed the hatch opening up a bit.

[vonhazza]

Also, my old Rev3's and Zero before them never filled it's airbox with water at the first sight of a puddle.

If it fills up anymore I'm gonna find ducks and fish in there!

I would also recommend the reticulated foam if you are having water problems plus a cover for the filter (http://www.sxsuk.com/EvoAirFilterTunnel4.aspx) I made my own out of a plastic folder and have had no water problems since,

Steve,

Edited February 16, 2015 by vonhazza

[goudrons]

Cheers,

I did look at them air box covers, but I notice the earlier Evo's seem to have a different arrangement to access the air filter than the later models.

These's a flap in the rear seat/mudguard on later models to get at the filter, ealier models you have to remove the seat/mudguard.

That cover would need another hole for the rear bolt of the filter retainer that also holds the access flap in place.

I guess it's easy enough to sort, but it's a hole in the cover and as we know, holes let water through!

Worth a try, so there's one on the way as is some pond filter foam, thanks again.

I noticed a gap on the left side of the airbox around the silencer mount, I'll have a go at sealing around that too, I can see it's a direct passage to the back wheel, between the airbox and silencer.

I find this gap a little odd though, the factory have gone to some effort to seal around the rest of the airbox with foam strips, yet left a big hole in one side??

[vonhazza]

I have an earlier model without excess cover so have to remove the mudguard to change the filter, I do have 2 filters so its quite quick only a few minuets to just remove the dirty one and drop the clean one in and bolt it back up again, then wash the dirty filter an hang up to dry for the next change,

Steve,