podracer Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 Hi Everybody , Wanted to share my happiness with yo all.. just purchased a 06 Beta rev3 which was in a shed unsed for a couple of years.. Opened the fuel valve , pull choke.. and she fired right up.. amazing for a bike stored and forgotten for years.. I come from a Extensive competition Enduros, and mx dirt biking and yesterday a gruop of trail riders took me to the mountain on my first ride... all i can say uufff.. this stuff is awesome... diffficult to adapt to this position due to my height..im 6'1'' and also coming from a full sized mx bikes.. the trial bike wasnt easy for the 1st hour... in the end I addapted really ell and began to understan that climbing really steep long sections speed is not the technique... is balance and momentum.. gas and clutch control... a total different attack compared to my full size ktm ... anyway.. this stuff is amazing !!! I hope i learn quickly and begin to clear all obstacles and sections clean ! No, for the bike...she was all dirty... stained... even the spokes on both wheels were totally atained with little rust... But after 2 days of scrubbing...and using meduim abbrasive sponges... noy she is really clean.. the way it shoud be ) this bike has been used... from what i can see she is not new ... but hopefully she has not been abused. I did changed the tranny oil.. with ATF Dexron 6... 450cc.. ( please correct me if the quantity is ok)... Drained all the old fuel... opened the carb drain plug... Added fresh fuel mixed with motorex 2 stroke cross power oil I had from my older 300 ktms i had in the past.. changed the grips... changed the handlebar..(old one was bent)... removed the chain and cleaned it... lubed it and installed back on..... greased the bearings at the head tube..and wheels.. Installed a new Air filter properly oiled.. and ordered both front and rear Carb rubber manifolds since they are dry and rotten... I heard from this forum that the carb on this bike is famous for p****** fuel...on and on.. Well on my bike no fuel leaks..either climbing or leaning tothe sides.. I believe im just lucky or the previous owner did something to it ... who knows... he is away and i was unable to talk to him directly.. bike was bought thru his neighboor whom really dont now nothing about dirt bkes.. Ill post some pics... Im really happy and looking forward to become and good trial bike rider !! Im tall and weight 230lbs... so the golden rule on enduro bikes and mx..is first to set the bike for my weight... chosing correct spring rates front and rear... perfect SAG... On this bike I believe ill need a stiffer rear spring... since I felt the tire rubbing te rear fender a couple of times.. and Ive never used a dirtbike without setting it right before attemting to go crazy and also compete. All advice is more than welcome from you all... This is my 1st Trial bike ever... so Im new to this and also new to Beta... So all tricks,,, advices... and tips will be highly appreciated ! Sorry for my bad grammar.. English is not my mother language... Im from Venezuela,.. and was fortunate to learn english way back at chidhood Im new here in TRAILS CENTRAL... this is my 3rd post... I was looking at a gas gas.. really clean.. but was advised from everyone who rides here that BETA was mor reliable and solid in every way... So Here I stand.. a proud owner of my 06 Rev3.. Is there a way to find out if my bike is a 250cc or a 270cc ?? the bike does not has any sticker and the previous owner said he didint knew... he believe is a 250cc. Cant wait from hear back with help and comments from you guys... thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vonhazza Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) Go to http://www.beta-uk.com/index.php/downloads and download the manuals for your model, the frame and engine numbers will tell you what motor you have, Steve, Edited March 15, 2015 by vonhazza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) Very tidy bike, I had an 06 and loved it. The best mod I found for mine was to swap the air box/carb rubber boot around so the larger opening fitted onto the carb venturi not the air box opening, made refitting the carb so much easier. We also removed the light blue spacer (about 4-5mm wide) from the reed valve block which gave even more room for the carb to go in. Re packing the silencer is very easy on the rev, you do need the right amount to go back in though (not too tight) Edited March 15, 2015 by the addict 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
podracer Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) Thanks addict and vonhazza.. Ill write down my chassis and engine number and compare it as been told to find out.. Also great idea flipping the rear carb rubber boot to easier carb mantainence Now, I find too much freeplay on my throttle... i dont see the common bolt freplay adjuster at the Domino throttle assembly.. I have yet not removed the carb on my rev 3 ( because she is running good and im afraid to mess something up) rubber intake manifold and rear carb rubber boot both are really rotted and dry, with visible cracks..... ill wait until the new one arrives.... just to prevent ithe old one breaks or craks even more....when attemting removal of carb. So, the throttle cable has and freeplay adjuster at the carb end ? Edited March 15, 2015 by podracer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richfr Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Looks a good bike I changed all the fluids, plug, cleaned and checked everything when I got mine found rear shock bearings had gone and front spindle pinch bolts snapped and just glued in Engine code/number look under the carb towards rear of the bike. Throttle cable is adjusted where it goes into the carb. If its fully adjusted think a new cable will be needed. Would be worth giving the carb a clean out when you get the new rubbers. You can add some preload on the rear shock cant tell from the photo but looks right off but yes a heavier spring probably needed. Gear oil quantity in the book is 550cc but some put 500 in (so a bottle does 2 changes) after reading what others used some use ATF but a lot prefer the feel 75w gear oil gives the clutch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goudrons Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) You might find ATF a like too grabby in the gearbox/clutch. As mentioned, a good quality 75w lite gear oil (550cc) designed for wet clutches I find works better. The rear shock might be a bit tired by now (or damaged internally) My old one slurped and gurgled when bounced, turned out the diaphragm inside, that separated the oil from the gas had punctured. Rebuild kits are hard to come by and even harder to fit, but Ollie make a cheap replacement unit for the Rev3. I used one and once I got it set right is was slightly better than the standard Paioli unit. The Rev3 do like a well packed silencer, remove the end cap and pull the perforated pipe out. Bin what's left of the packing and wire brush the pipe to clean the holes up. Wrap the pipe with new packing, but not too tightly, it should slip back into the silencer fairly easily, it you're struggling to stuff it all back it, it's too tight! Run it on higher octane "Super" unleaded, which is often 98 or 99 octane. Normal 95 tend to cause them to pre detonate and ping badly. Mix the fuel with 1.5% fully synthetic 2 stroke. If you find the bike to "flighty" and/or ride in a lot of muddy conditions, it might be worth tracking down a flywheel weight kit. (popular here in the UK) (from your pics, it doesn't look like it has one) It's just a weight that's bolted to the outer face of the flywheel and a case spacer. This will weight the engine up a bit more and calms it down a little, makes riding in slippy conditions easier as you can use the engine's momentum to drag you while off the gas. You sort of wind it up on the throttle, let the throttle off and then feed the clutch in, the extra weight carries you a little smoother. There should be an adjuster on top of the carb that will take some of the slack out of the cable. Or with a bit of ingenuity, make and fit a small spacer that fits one end of the cable to make the outer cable slightly longer. In the past, as an emergency, I've used a cable that was far too short and left too much slack in the action, but managed to strip off the cable covering and stretch the outer cable steel winding slightly, effectively making the outer cable longer so it all worked. I think that lasted me 2 years! Edited March 15, 2015 by goudrons 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
podracer Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 You might find ATF a like too grabby in the gearbox/clutch. As mentioned, a good quality 75w lite gear oil (550cc) designed for wet clutches I find works better. The rear shock might be a bit tired by now (or damaged internally) My old one slurped and gurgled when bounced, turned out the diaphragm inside, that separated the oil from the gas had punctured. Rebuild kits are hard to come by and even harder to fit, but Ollie make a cheap replacement unit for the Rev3. I used one and once I got it set right is was slightly better than the standard Paioli unit. The Rev3 do like a well packed silencer, remove the end cap and pull the perforated pipe out. Bin what's left of the packing and wire brush the pipe to clean the holes up. Wrap the pipe with new packing, but not too tightly, it should slip back into the silencer fairly easily, it you're struggling to stuff it all back it, it's too tight! Run it on higher octane "Super" unleaded, which is often 98 or 99 octane. Normal 95 tend to cause them to pre detonate and ping badly. Mix the fuel with 1.5% fully synthetic 2 stroke. If you find the bike to "flighty" and/or ride in a lot of muddy conditions, it might be worth tracking down a flywheel weight kit. (popular here in the UK) (from your pics, it doesn't look like it has one) It's just a weight that's bolted to the outer face of the flywheel and a case spacer. This will weight the engine up a bit more and calms it down a little, makes riding in slippy conditions easier as you can use the engine's momentum to drag you while off the gas. You sort of wind it up on the throttle, let the throttle off and then feed the clutch in, the extra weight carries you a little smoother. There should be an adjuster on top of the carb that will take some of the slack out of the cable. Or with a bit of ingenuity, make and fit a small spacer that fits one end of the cable to make the outer cable slightly longer. In the past, as an emergency, I've used a cable that was far too short and left too much slack in the action, but managed to strip off the cable covering and stretch the outer cable steel winding slightly, effectively making the outer cable longer so it all worked. I think that lasted me 2 years! wooww....Great Info !! Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge with me here ... The kind of tech stuff I NEED to know... tomorrow ill clean that carb, adjust freeplay if not try out that great idea (small spacer ), and prepare everything for my wendsday ride !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
podracer Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) Looks a good bike I changed all the fluids, plug, cleaned and checked everything when I got mine found rear shock bearings had gone and front spindle pinch bolts snapped and just glued in Engine code/number look under the carb towards rear of the bike. Throttle cable is adjusted where it goes into the carb. If its fully adjusted think a new cable will be needed. Would be worth giving the carb a clean out when you get the new rubbers. You can add some preload on the rear shock cant tell from the photo but looks right off but yes a heavier spring probably needed. Gear oil quantity in the book is 550cc but some put 500 in (so a bottle does 2 changes) after reading what others used some use ATF but a lot prefer the feel 75w gear oil gives the clutch. Thanks Richfr... Some here also recomended 450cc when using ATF... Thats what I added last friday... Ill go ahead and add 50cc more.... the clear plastic oil level visor , when the bike is leveled shows half full... The ATF im using is Dexron 6..which i was told to use from all the old fellows who ride Betas in my area.. is supposeed to be the best ATF fluid since is 6.... i already got 5 lts... Tomorrow afternoon after 3pm will be Wrench Session... jaajaa.... Cant Wait I enjoy working on the bike and knowing everything about it as much as riding it Edited March 15, 2015 by podracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
podracer Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Ill addd some more and better pics tomorrow.. from the shock and the open carb.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goudrons Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Don't know what the conditions you ride in over there are like, but if it's wet and claggy mud, try raising the front mudguard up a little. Some spacers or a stack of washers under the front mudguard bracket to lift it 5mm or so. This stops the mug clogging the front wheel (stopping it rotating and causing you to fall off face first) You might need to find some longer M6 bolts too. While you are fettling it, try this http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/28407-the-beta-clutch-fix/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
podracer Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) Goudrons, Right now is dry season down here... Ill keed your advice in mind when the rain arrives.. Thanks a lot !! Edited March 17, 2015 by podracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
podracer Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Tried to post hera all the pics from today repairs and inspectins on my bike,,,, and could not upload them here.. I created a Album in the Gallery named , Repairs and Inspecion on My New 2006 BETA Rev3 270ccWrenching sessions... bringing back this bike to live !!! Feel free to check them out... and all advices are highly apreciatted... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richfr Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 So its a 270? If its still in bits might be worth taking the rest of the exhaust off and clean/burn it out. I hung them up outside and used a roofing blow torch once hot enough it will burn on its own (will be a lot of smoke) I needed to add a little heat to keep it going from time to time. I cant believe how much oil was in the center section of mine it burned for hours and weighed half as much when done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_earle Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 So its a 270? If its still in bits might be worth taking the rest of the exhaust off and clean/burn it out. I hung them up outside and used a roofing blow torch once hot enough it will burn on its own (will be a lot of smoke) I needed to add a little heat to keep it going from time to time. I cant believe how much oil was in the center section of mine it burned for hours and weighed half as much when done. Don't set light to an exhaust! The centre section could be packed with wire wool so all the packing will either disintegrate or turn to small solid lumps. Wire wool goes up like a rocket, just hold a lighter to a lump of it and you will see what I mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_earle Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Actually don't set fire to a lump of wire wool, It's easier to stamp out a rag of burning petrol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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