podracer Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) Hellooo.. Yep, thanks steve earle and richfr.. I did installed the new packing today inside the silencer... could not found the proper FMF 2 Stroke packing.. I went and Installed the 4 Stroke packing which is a FMF also and pink in color.... please let me know if perfonmance wise it will affect... On the other hand, reading your recomendations on heating the mid pipe.. Sound like a good idea... ill try that next week... didi noticed it is a heavy piece, considering how small it is, it feels REALLY HEAVY.. has to be full of oil in there.. Im not really clear on your intructions to burn that oil in the mid muffler... sounds fairly easy.. but im not yet clear on how many heat it needs no be applied without being to much... and probably damage the internal packing inside that mid pipe... Has anyone besides RICHFR here had done that before ?? I never heard of that solution...... But lguessing on how heavy my mid muffler is I believe it will need some sort of cure to bring taht piece back 100% to its perfonmance.... since i saw inside and looks similar baffle internal with he same little round holes the Silencer baffle had... and on my silencer the 80% of it were totally clogged.... Also, Im about to just change the oil in both Forks... They have been never serviced.... The Oil probably is really old and contaminated.. In the manual this Job is fairly easy explained... but im also a little confused on how to measure the new Oil level with the Fork ( Sping side) totally collapsed... Has Anyone found out the Quantity of oil to add.. Instead of the level ?? It will be easier if someone here took the time to do the level right and then empty all the oil and measured to find the EXACT amount to each fork leg... That Info would be great to have !!!! Let me know if Im missing something Thanksss in Advance Edited March 18, 2015 by podracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richfr Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 I decided to do burn my exhaust after reading what others had done. I used a propane torch that you would use doing roof flashing. I don't think you could damage it with that unless you keep the tip in one place continuously. The other option is cut it open, repack then weld it back up. (I haven't access to an ally welder) Not sure what damage I did to the packing, if any of it was left after 11 years but it must have been completely blocked and doing nothing anyway. I figured I can always cut it open later. Bike sounds nice crisp and much quieter than before. I repacked the rear and cleaned the front pipe not much oil in it but a fair amount of carbon I found it fell off easily with a little heat applied. When I did my forks I found references to the manual been wrong anyway. After searching on here I went with right leg ................................................370 ccLeft leg .................................................350 cc But I removed 420 right 390 left I also needed to replace the copper washers on the drain plugs might be worth getting them first if you haven't got any. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
podracer Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) I decided to do burn my exhaust after reading what others had done. I used a propane torch that you would use doing roof flashing. I don't think you could damage it with that unless you keep the tip in one place continuously. The other option is cut it open, repack then weld it back up. (I haven't access to an ally welder) Not sure what damage I did to the packing, if any of it was left after 11 years but it must have been completely blocked and doing nothing anyway. I figured I can always cut it open later. Bike sounds nice crisp and much quieter than before. I repacked the rear and cleaned the front pipe not much oil in it but a fair amount of carbon I found it fell off easily with a little heat applied. When I did my forks I found references to the manual been wrong anyway. After searching on here I went with right leg ................................................370 cc Left leg .................................................350 cc But I removed 420 right 390 left I also needed to replace the copper washers on the drain plugs might be worth getting them first if you haven't got any. Woww. Richfr !! Awesome.. thanks a lot... Thats what I was looking for !! This will save a lot of time and guessing to all of us when servicing our Beta Forks.. Edited March 19, 2015 by podracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
podracer Posted March 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 I decided to do burn my exhaust after reading what others had done. I used a propane torch that you would use doing roof flashing. I don't think you could damage it with that unless you keep the tip in one place continuously. The other option is cut it open, repack then weld it back up. (I haven't access to an ally welder) Not sure what damage I did to the packing, if any of it was left after 11 years but it must have been completely blocked and doing nothing anyway. I figured I can always cut it open later. Bike sounds nice crisp and much quieter than before. I repacked the rear and cleaned the front pipe not much oil in it but a fair amount of carbon I found it fell off easily with a little heat applied. When I did my forks I found references to the manual been wrong anyway. After searching on here I went with right leg ................................................370 cc Left leg .................................................350 cc But I removed 420 right 390 left I also needed to replace the copper washers on the drain plugs might be worth getting them first if you haven't got any. Richfr, Any advice on how to remove oil from both forks ? Does the reference in the Manual is wrong in the disasemble and asembly steps they recomend there ?? Im doing it tomorrow,,, I dont know yet if I had to remove the seals from the stantion tube or when removed the lower allen bolt everything should come out all toghether ? Will I need a seal drive to push them on place at the time of assembly ? well, i dont have one... any advive on making a Home made one ? Thankss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richfr Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 Richfr, Any advice on how to remove oil from both forks ? Does the reference in the Manual is wrong in the disasemble and asembly steps they recomend there ?? Im doing it tomorrow,,, I dont know yet if I had to remove the seals from the stantion tube or when removed the lower allen bolt everything should come out all toghether ? Will I need a seal drive to push them on place at the time of assembly ? well, i dont have one... any advive on making a Home made one ? Thankss PM sent 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
podracer Posted March 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
podracer Posted March 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 Changing fluids on forks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
podracer Posted March 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 (edited) went on a really nice mountain trail ride with many guys today... Saw some guys with the 2008 rev3 270 and both sounded really crisp when acelerating compared to mine 2006 rev 3 2006 with this mikuni carb . Took 1 of these bikes for 2 minutes and felt the difference with mine... wayyyyy betterrrrrrrr thsn mine... more power down low and really clean crisp acceleration.... could not believe how nice this bike worked compared to mine... My bike feels with some detonations and weird kinda slow when i turn the throttle.. my carb is cleaned, and totally OEM settings.. I asked them and they said they DID NOT PERFORM ANY MODS TO THEIR CARBS !! im temted to get a keihin for my bike. after I felt this 08's for only couple of minutes... anyone know the carb code for the KEIHIN PWK 28 the 2008 rev 3 270 are fiited with ? were I can fin a good deal on the exact carb this newer 08's are fitted with '??? Im looking on ebay but they are too many listed on there , with the idle adjuster on the wrong side, etc... Also , will this be a direct plug and play regarding the carb booots on my 06 rev3 ?? Thanks a lot !!! Edited March 21, 2015 by podracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
podracer Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 After a great afernoon of riding Friday... I must say AWESOME RIDE... Learned a lot and began to feel wayy more confident on my Rev3.... Ill get the jetting dialed pretty soon !! Now is her time to clean and lube it.. After a great wash... towel dried... started and warmed it for a bit.... Apply WD-40, which does wonders to the bikes.. This product have kept my bikes inmaculate and hidrated for years... its just magical how the WD-40 keeps all metals and plastics new ! Now, this Trial bike is gonna feel what a new owner who loves bikes its all about !! Found the rear wheel bearings had a little play.. so wheel removed,, cleaned for tomorrow heading to the Bearings stores to by a pair. ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worldtrialchamp Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 can see from the photos your kickstarter position is incorrect. Turning it on the spline would bring it too far forward. Someone has had the mechanism apart and not aligned the gears correctly. It's important because your getting one tooth less of rotation for starting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
podracer Posted April 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Hi Everyone, Quick Update on My Beta , Having a blast with this bike and the whole trial riding skills.. cant beleive how much fun Im having !!! Great choice on Going for the BETA and not the GAS GAS,,, these bikes are solid and really reliables... Glad I heard advices from all the guys who ride in my area... Now, Ive learned a lot in these weeks and now im noticing my bike not responding clean at higher revs in the longer climbs sections we have arround here... Did Billy T mod, so no alarming fuel leaks... just the usual problems when going steep and long downhills , that always kinda floods teh carb and she takes the The EXTRA Kicks to fire her up when arriving down. So, Im about Attack this problem at high revs going for the long steep climbs , on GOING DOWN 1 size on the Main Pilot , Will leave the needle POS right were I found it ( at the middle or 3rd groove ) and he usual adjust of the air screw which requieres the every PRE RIDE , adjustment... My Bike DOWN LOW low feels really good... <its just like on 3rd gear pinned going up on a long steep climb...OR a 2nd gear pre hard acceleration to attack a step rock section... just like the bikes of the guys I ride with... What are your oppinions on going DOWN 1 SIZE ON THE MAIN PILOT ? We are at 800mts seal level and the trail rides sometimes go up to 1200mts... The jetting is Totally Stock. I KNOW, I was tempted to just change the whole carb for a KEIHIN, bu rather prefer fine tunning this one..and keep those $$ down on more expenses... The carb, the both air boots, the throttlr cable... Nahhhh... Ill keep this and at least try to make it better <on <hold for advices... Thanks Edited April 1, 2015 by podracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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