Novice Needs Help

[trial_master]

Hi

I have bought that 290 i was looking at. I love it, had a little play on my street when i got home and we have fallen in love!!!

would you lot please help me with a few little problems i have?

First off the clutch sticks for the first time i put the bike in gear when its cold. I need no push off then when moving put it in gear, after 30seconds the clutch works as what i would call 'normal'. Do all of your bikes do this? or is something wrong with mine?

secondly where do i buy that little rubber seal which is on the cluth lever? Just where the piston enters the reservoir. How much roughly will it cost and is it as easy as it looks (remove adjuster nut and pull it off?)

Now general stuff.

What fuel do you recomend that i use, eg shell or shell ultimate? And the guy who i bough it off used putoline fully synthetic, shall i carry on using this? Is it just normal bike oil or special stuff for trials?

What do you use to measure out your oil/ fuel and what ratio?

Any other points and tips to help me on my way???

Thanks for looking

Ryan

[n.wales_sherco_lad1]

Hi, the clutchs always sticks on shercos when there cold, so theres nothing wrong with your bike.You can stop this happenig if you buy Rock oil gold bottle (sorry cant remember the name)it does help. Im not sure how much the rubber seal for the clutch is but give malcolm a ring 01423 772205 or email rhoda@malcolmrathmellsport.com. i use ipone fuel mix find it runnes cleanand smells of strwaberries. lol

[jjwhite]

with the cluth, make sure that your foot its on the back brake, whilst you put it into gear, this ofter works, you may need yo pick the revs up a litle though. if it doesnt work first time then it is almost 100% sure to work second.

as for fuel, and kind will do, as for oil go for motul, find it runs much cleaner that most others.

[trial_master]

Thanks for the tips/help That rear brake tip will come in very handy

any one got any more???

[bikespace]

There will be all sorts of variations on these answers, but here's mine. You won't kill it by using these anyway. I'm around 17 stone riding the expert route, and doing most of the Novogar's plus the odd other national on top of club trials - what I'm getting at is my bike gets about as good a test as any clubman will give a bike and runs like clockwork (touch wood).

Mine is an 04, just coming up for 2 years old and I've had it from new - it's been that good to me I don't want to change.

1. I use Silkolene light gear oil in the gearbox, changing it roughly every 6 to 8 trials (I don't get to practice too often so adjust as necessary)

2. My clutch always sticks when cold, but as you say, give it a push, put it in to gear, and brakes on it will soon clear.

3. Fuel mix I use at around 65:1 using the best unleaded you can get (optimax is good but had no probs with any other super unleaded). I am convinced I notice a drop in power at 50:1. I use Silkolene Comp 2 plus (fully synthetic), just because I can get it locally. About

[trial_master]

Wow.

That is one hell of a reply. Thanks for taking the time to type all of that. It is much apprechiated (SP)

Ryan

[nigel dabster]

Bikespace is pretty much spot on except for personally I use tqf and the clutch doesn't always stick, change every 6 trials the same, longer you leave it more it sticks

I use ipone fully synthetic at 75 to 1 with optimax or ultimate. I don't scream the motor much though!

Any kind of silicone sealant up under the rear mudguard to stop the water getting through there.Absolute must.

Never start your bike after you wash it. Get the airbox off, and preferably the carb - when you get used to it it's a 10-15 minute job and well worth it.

Check your pilot jet is a 33 and the floats are set at 18.5 take the banjo filter off it always has something in there. I always copper slip all the bolts which prevents seizures might be worth checking the fork clamps and caliper ones.Set the sag on the rear spring. Try to use a chain with a half link if the 02 needs it. I always wash my chain and then after drying it lube it up, don't like the wd 40 idea.

[charliechitlins]

Putting the brake on and stuffing the bike into gear isn't a good idea.

Gearing up without the benefit of the clutch can only lead to harm.

Shove off with your foot and slip her into gear when the bike is rolling.

If you keep the lever pulled, the clutch will free up soon enough.

[trial_master]

Thanks,

It seems that everyone has their own way of doing things. I will just have to try everyones technique and see which works best for me.

Thanks again

Ryan

[arun1664]

Clutch on my 290 does as you describe, I find leaving it on tickover for a couple of mins to warm up helps a bit.

As has been mentioned may times on this forum, check to see if you have a black throttle (slower action)having swopped toone I found it helps.

Also if it has not already been done replace the two screws holding the rear guard on with cable ties, may well save you having to buy a new mudguard should the worse happen.

[nigel dabster]

Never have used anything but bolts in the back gaurd and as yet never broken one. Don't like the way they wobble with ties, kinda think it depends how often you trow the bike away, I must admit i bail out early and catch the bike as much as poss.

Stick with the white tube if you can, if the bike is getting away from you in first it may be worth a try.

[trial_master]

cheers.

I have a white throttle tube (bit on handle bar) I found this out today as i had it in bits. Throttle would not return so i just cleaned it all out and lubed it with general houseold oil.

I have heard about the cable tie trick, but i am going to leave the bolts in and put a leather strab between then, going over the guard to make a handle to pick the bike up

Ryan

[sirsherco1]

Hi from New Zealand I use 8o/1 Aviation gas and Motul 600tt. Putoline was the worst oil I ever used ,in one trial it fouled 4 plugs absolutely awful .For the gear box ,it always sticks for about 5/10 secs thats all,I use elf htx absolutely brilliant ,gear changes and finding neutral an absolute breeze. And believe me I have tried all sorts.Welcome to the Sherco club and enjoy it .

[pete]

A thing that my Dad does when we are washing the bike is to take the chain off before we leave the trial. This stops any **** from the road getting onto it, and you then don't blast mud etc into the rollers when you are washing the bike off. He also boils it once a month, maybe once every two months if it hasn't been ridden much, and before putting it back on lubes it with Castrol chain lube. Never had any trouble with it, and it always looks like new!

Also, cut out a bit of car inner-tube and rivet it onto the bottom of the mud flap next to the silencer. This stops 99%of crap getting anywhere near the rear shock, and also fill up the gaps aroung the airbox with some sort of insulation tape to make it a better seal.

That's all I think of!

Pete.

[wayne thais]

Here are some things that I would suggest:

1. Take the clutch cover off and clean the fiber discs in a good solvent, then soak them in a good transmission lube, Isuggest Maxima MTL 75. Use a fine grit sandpaper (400-600) on a piece of glass rough up the steel discs.

2. Drain the transmission oil before you do the above and replace it with 450cc of Maxima MTL 75 after you service the clutch.

3. If the clutch still sticks put the bike in 5th gear and rock it back and forth to free up the clutch. I put it in 5th and kick it through, some people will not agree with this suggestion but I have been using it for several years and several Sherco's (2001 through 2005)

4. Use at least 93 octane gas, use higher octane if you can get it. Use an 80/1 gas oil misture, we have had very good luck using Maxima K2 synthetic oil.

5. Take the time to re grease the dog bone bearings, the wheel bearings and the headset bearings. Apply anti seize to all of the bolts that go into aluminum. Go to the www.sherco-moto.com website and download all of the various service manuals. The ones that will want to download are located in Wayne's Corner. I really recommend the lubrication and maintenance guide.

6. When you wash the bike take the rear fender off, clean the air filter retainer and apply a piece of duct tape over the inlet. Put the fender back on and then wash the bike, as was mentioned above also plug the exhaust.

Enjoy the bike,

Wayne