chappo Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 I have a 1984 TLR 200, the original carb was worn and people who seem know advised me to just replace it which I did. The replacement was a Cotton make which is a copy of the original. The problem I have is that the choke has no effect on the bike. The choke operation, ie the mechanical side of the lever etc work perfectly, but the bike starts without it and when the lever is on or off there is no effect on the engine, as you would expect, namely rise in revs etc. Also the bike tick over fluctuates, I've read all the posts on not over tightening the carb for distortion purposes, the O rings etc and have done all I can. Can I also add that I have stripped the top end, ground the valves fitted Honda valve seals and the bike runs really well apart from the above, any ideas folks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 put the new carb in scrap bin and get a repair kit for honda one i have a bin full of new ones that dont work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esteve Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 (edited) On the balance of probability mini may be right... However, tell us more: 1. Is it a Reflex or a non Reflex model? see here: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/47707-tlr200-carburettor-rebuild/?hl=%2Btlr200+%2Bcarb 2. What is "worn" on the original carb? I have succesfully rebuilt 2 original carbs and even the slides are as good as new (they are anodised; do not, as somebody posted, sandpaper/emery the slide if it is sticking - just make sure the slide and the bore are clean - then, if there are any high spots in the bore use Solvol Autosol or similar and lightly polish the bore in stages and clean thoroughly before inserting the slide to check) All I've replaced to date is a float valve, pilot jet screws, needle and needle jet. Float height is critical (The TLR250 shop manual (same carb as TLR200D) says 20mm; but do you measure that from the bottom of the groove for the bowl seal or the top of the groove - anybody know?) NB the Clymer manual suggests 24mm...which would suggest a tendency to run lean? - I need to find my notebook to see how I measured it. Avoid non genuine parts - see my other post. If you have a Reflex carb you can rebuild it to Non Reflex specification (needle and jets) Standard TLR200D specification is: Main Jet 98Pilot Jet 40Needle circlip: second groove from topNeedle ID: stamped 2FASlide: 166C 2.5 (same slide for non-Reflex and Reflex) Starting point for air screw is 1 7/8 turns out I did make a post to see if there were any other recommendations from standard but no replies (there are other posts suggesting slightly larger jets but no consistent message. I have found that the standard TLR200D specification makes the bike work well for me) If you want the part numbers I could post them later. Gordon Farley's should stock them... Both the carbs responded well to an ultrasonic clean; ideally buy a decent Ultrasonic Cleaner with a heater; the sort about the size of a Tower PC with a case in stainless steel and a deep bath. I've only used water with a drop of detergent in the bath but before U/S cleaning I have used carb cleaner aerosols (the sort with a pipe to fit into the ends of the galleries) to blow through the galleries in the body and have also soaked the jets in carb cleaner. Carb cleaner is nasty stuff; use it somewhere well ventilated (or outside but don't get it on your car, pets etc) and into a bucket/open drum and wear rubber gloves and goggles; be very careful using aerosol cleaner and/or blowing out with an airline - you could be squirting into one end of a gallery and it will come out the other end pointing at your face.... If the old carb is terminally worn out for some reason then find a good S/H one to rebuild. If you persevere with the new carb have you visually checked inside the carb throat to see what is happening when the choke lever is actuated? Is the airfilter new/clean/porous - old foam can congeal and restrict air flow. Is the float height set too high so it tends to run rich and thus the choke has no effect? Otherwise with a pattern carb it is difficult to find a good starting point for setting it up there are too many combinations and permutations of jet size (stamped versus actual), needle taper shape/dimensions, needle position (the circlip might be in the "correct" groove but if the needle is a different taper and the needle jet is not right...) and then add the impact of quality control regarding the internal drillings, finish and cleanliness. Take it apart and compare the components with OEM parts. A fellow rider of a TLR eventually got a pattern carb to work by using the pattern body and mostly OEM parts; there's no reason why it shouldn't work if everything is the right size and in the right place and the galleries are clear and the internal plumbing is as it should be, but that's a big "if". Edited May 16, 2015 by esteve 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappo Posted May 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Thanks esteve, Not had time to digest all the info, it is a real TLR from Japan not a Californian import or Reflex. I'll reply later in full. Many thanks. Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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