beta evo andy Posted December 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 (edited) Here is the frame i have just picked up, i have just ordered new head bearings for it so will be slowly swapping parts onto this frame Edited December 14, 2015 by beta evo andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircooled4ever Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Hi Andy, the front brakes are always rubbish on the beamish and everyone seems to change the front wheel/brake plate combination. The rm wheel seems to be expensive and harder to get hold of these days. I went to a trial two weeks ago and a guy had used a ts50 front wheel which looked good and seemed to work well, I'm planning to do this as they are cheap to obtain, might be worth a look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beta evo andy Posted December 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 Sounds good, and i suppose theres more of them knocking about so will have a look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djr Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 hello again, is the 2nd frame you have got made for the Black Engine ? If it is are you intending to fit the Silver Engine in to it ? I hope I am wrong but I have an idea the engine mounting points may be slightly different. might be worth checking before you dismantle everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beta evo andy Posted December 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 The plan was to put my silver engine in the later frame, i haven't really looked into it but the mountain points look similar so was hoping it would be ok, failing that i will hold out for a black engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beta evo andy Posted December 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2015 (edited) Well this is how they stand so far, silver engine needs some spacers making up and longer mounting bolts and need to make some new front engine brackets, other than that im hoping it should be ok Edited December 20, 2015 by beta evo andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djr Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 looking good, I am glad the engine fitted ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beta evo andy Posted January 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Change of plans, will be going back to old frame and building that up instead, to much work is required to make everything fit later frame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beta evo andy Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 If anybody has any good tips to getting old swing arm bushes out please let me know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 I did mine a few months back - living hell... I don't think there is a way of pressing them out. I drilled through the rubber section, all around the inner steel tube of the bush on both sides until the inner was effectively separated from the outer case. We could then press the inner steel tube of one side through the swingarm and out the other side, pushing the other inner steel tube out with it, as well as the centre spacer. Now we had just the outer cases to remove. We heated them and very carefully used a very thin chisel to tap between the swingarm tube and the outer case (which is quite thin) and collapse it inwards, bit by bit and taking care not to score up the inner surface of the swingarm housing. Eventually the cases will collapse enough to just drop out. I replaced them with original type bushes again (from Jim at the Beamish owners club) as in it's next lifetime following its current resurrection it will never get enough use to wear them out, so I won't have to go through it again 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 I did some in a Whitehawk swingarm recently which is probably a very similar (Whitlock) design to the Beamish. I carefully burned the rubber parts away which freed up the inner spacer. To remove the remaining steel sections of the bushes I used a standard hacksaw blade held in a cloth and cut through almost all the way through the steel of the bush. This weakened it enough to slide a tiny drift in, causing the outer to come loose. I found that the new bushes for my swingarm were a standard industrial item. As far as the burning of the rubber goes, there is a risk of discolouring the plating on the swingarm, but I was getting the frame re-plated anyway (which is why I had to take the bushes out) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 I did try burning the rubber before the drill, forgot to mention that method, but for whatever reason, the rubber in the bushes in my Beamish arm just wouldn't melt. It just seemed to glow red and get harder.... but it came nowhere near to melting so no idea what it was made of. I'd used burning successfully before on some 247 Cota bushes. Good tip about the discolouring as mine did discolour slightly on one side with the heat but it's hidden by the slipper pad that Jim from Beamish Owners Club sells, so not a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beta evo andy Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 I had a go a drilling the rubber out as well, i was going to just leave them as i had spent ages cutting the old swingarm bolt off because it had siezed in the swingarm, im replacing the old swingarm with a later model swingarm that was in much better condition, only thing i noticed different was there is no bracket for a chain tensioner on the later swing arm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) Re: tensioner, that's how they were, the last model Beamish, which is the frame you were trying to fit your engine into, didn't have a tensioner, they didn't fit them on that model for some reason. They just had a roller fitted onto a bolt that was welded to the inside of the frame behind the footrest. You'll need to weld a bracket onto the arm if you want to run the original tensioner set up, or find another means of mounting one. Edited January 11, 2016 by woody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beta evo andy Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 More work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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