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Bleeding Back Brake, My 2P Worth, Txt 250 99


nickyburnell
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Just done this, IMHO strange design in that the pistons need to be out a fair way even with new pads.

Many people saying they only get a dribble, this in my case was simply because the actuating rod was not pushing far enough into the master cylninder, judging by the rust it never had. Pop the peddle off and adjust it up lots. Then pull pads out and push all pistons back in so flush,  jam someting in to stop them moving out. Then as there is now long enough stroke on your new adjusted pedal pushrod do a couple or 10 open and shut bleeds, keeping the master topped up. Now put the pads in and do it again, then use the brake to push the pads forward, then bleed open and shut style again. Worked for me.

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Well done! Seems Irish to me but as they say don't knock it till you've tried it.

 

Just make sure the master cylinder can return fully, If there is no free play between the push rod and Master cylinder you will have problems and most likely it will bind on when it gets hot.

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Well done! Seems Irish to me but as they say don't knock it till you've tried it.

 

Just make sure the master cylinder can return fully, If there is no free play between the push rod and Master cylinder you will have problems and most likely it will bind on when it gets hot.

 

 

Yes: Update, had to slack rod off a bit to get full return as it was binding a little. So over adjusting to bleed seemed to be the key, then back off again..

 

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