Mx Bars On A Trials Bike?

[lineaway]

 I have often wondered about you posts Dad of Two. Now I know you are full of crap advice. Fat bars are rarely replaced, so good money spent. The old 7/8s Renthal aluminum bars w/ brace were fairly rugged. My record for the old Renthal`s were 6 in one month. But steel bars could be ruined every time you crash. Do you really ride?

[billyt]

"My favourites are painted MX bars with a welded steel brace and good knurling. They are strong and cheap and you can braze plugs on the ends"

 

Why on earth would you braze on bar end plugs? They are meant to be sacrificial and replaceable.   

 

 

 

[biffsgasgas]

Its strange, when you go into cloths shop you expect to come out with a jacket that fits, buy a trial bike (or any motorcycle) and you get what the bike comes with

 

Its not strange.

 

I have never purchased a jacket with the understanding that it would get a new set of sleeves at some point. 

 

I have purchased many a motorcycle knowing that there are certain wear items that will be replaced and I look forward to seeing if i can do it cheap with an added benefit. 

 

 

It is strange to braze in some sort of plug at the bar end but who am I to judge.

 

--Biff

[2stroke4stroke]

You guys seem to be hard on your handlebars. I'm still using the (unbent) Renthals I first fitted to a Fantic in the Seventies.

[slicktop]

In my case, bent bars meant broken bones. I hope to never 'have to' buy bars again.

[pschrauber]

There are so many different shapes for Trials and for MX bikes. Some mich really suit a rider why not. I am not an expert in handle bars I always buy the same models I'am personal used too. Tomaselli and Renthal while the Tomaselli is a tad flatter and less bend. The Renthsl is very similar to the old steel handle bars that came with the bike.

Anyway the last twinshock I purchased had a MX style handele bar mounted. (It's an old style handle bar even approved for street use). I personal felt uncomfortable with it. The bar is much more bend backwards. So I changes to a Renthal 5'' and everything was OK again.

In my experience th

[lineaway]

You guys seem to be hard on your handlebars. I'm still using the (unbent) Renthals I first fitted to a Fantic in the Seventies.

 The bike`s throttle is on the right! I doubt after 40 years that you actually attempt an obstacle out of the pits. 

[phildirt]

I tried it for a little while. VERY uncomfortable.

[steve_earle]

My Last Bike had Renthal Fatbars, New bike has the S3 world bars. I felt the difference right away, I'm Going to get some Renthals again very soon.

[baldilocks]

Its strange, when you go into cloths shop you expect to come out with a jacket that fits, buy a trial bike (or any motorcycle) and you get what the bike comes with whether you are a 7 stone midget or a 20 stone porker.

Find some bars that have a bend, rise and width that suits you and puts nice even pressure across your hands in the normal riding position.

My favourites are painted MX bars with a welded steel brace and good knurling. They are strong and cheap and you can braze plugs on the ends

How do you change / lubricate the throttle if you have brazed a bar end onto the handlebar?

[guys]

For a second I tought this was about Mars bars, bummer.

[dadof2]

For those of little understanding.

When you drop a bike on the clutch lever side the ends of the bar tend to punch through the rubber grip. If you braze a disc of metal on the end of the bar the grips stand up to crashes far better. Also if the end of the bar is open crap can get in and work its way over to the throttle side spoiling the throttle action.

Brazing a disc onto throttle side is for same reason. You braze the discs on and polish it smooth before fitting the grip or throttle assembly. The OD of the disc is slightly less than OD of handlebar.

I have found alloy bars braced and unbraced more likely to break off unexpectedly than steel. Also alloy bars are not knurled and are more likely to rotate in the clamps. Large diameter bars such as akront or tapered are better but still not as robust as welded brace steel and they are far more expensive.

Another advantage of steel is that if you do bend them slightly they can easily be straightened by heating with a gas welding torch. Once heat treated alloy bars are bent they are not safely straightenable and are very likely to crack unexpectedly.

http://motocrossactionmag.com/home-page/10-things-you-need-to-know-about-handlebars

[baldilocks]

Comical again.

Dropped a ty with the original steel bars once. The bars kinked, trial over. If your bar end is smaller diameter then its not going to protect the throttle tube is it?

[steve_earle]

How do you get steel bars to fit fatbar clamps then? This post was from a 2011 Sherco owner wanting advise on what bars to use and it's been led down the road to bars that are not obtainable for his model of bike with out changing his top yoke to one from a BSA bantam!

[dadof2]

FYI. Two of my bikes have fat bars, one braced Renthals and the other braced steel. I sold two of my bikes recently and they had braced Renthals.

 

Baldilocks - The bar with the end blanked off does protect the throttle tube more than an unmodified bar end.

 

Sometimes I wonder what motivates posters on TC. I merely suggest I have a preference for a certain type of bar and get all sorts of insults, What next, capital punishment for suggesting a different grade of oil?.

 

My preference for steel is based on near 40 years experience. I have never had a steel bar break unexpectedly yet this has happened to quite a few alloy bars, sometimes with painful results. I still have scars under my chin from alloy bars breaking in late 1970s.

 

The way to fit 7/8th bars to fatbar clamps is with curved aluminium shims. I think Renthal used to supply these shims.