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Climber 280 - Woodruff Key In The Oil


ffman
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I bought a climber 280 cheap for some fun and before I fire it up I thought I would change the oil. I found a woodruff key stuck to the magnetic sump plug which is a worry. So maybe that's why it was laid up and cheap ?

 

I see from page 14 of the manual attached there is a woodruff key each side of the crank. In the picture the clutch/carb is nearest. The key the other side must hold the flywheel though its not shown, and I guess this is the dry side, so if they was in the oil it must be the clutch side ?

 

Any thoughts.

 

How do I get the pesky clutch main nut off - is there a trick, maybe jamming the chain ?

 

thanks

242ccet282ccTLAprilia1994.pdf

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I haven't tried to start it yet. I suspect its from the primary drive gear, and without it, the engine would run but it wouldn't go anywhere.

 

anyway - its part in bits so i'll continue to check it over

 

is there a trick for getting the clutch nut off ?

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To lock the crank on most rotax trials motors, from motoswm.

 

Yes, you can run without the counterweight, the early red/white SWM's and the later Aprilia TXRs ran with just a nut. You will need the correct nut, I have a couple here if you want one

You dont need a impact gun to remove the weight, just a half inch drive ratchet/bar.

Either hold the flywheel, to lock the crank and remove the counterweight (std right hand thread).

Or you can lock the crank directly......look between the fins on the crank case, just below the exhaust port, and there is a 13mm hex head bolt. Take this out, poke a clean screwdriver down the hole and it will touch the crank. Slowly rotate the crank, and when it reaches top dead centre there is a hole. If you find a long M8 bolt and screw this in, it will lock up the crank to remove the counter weight or flywheel nut. Also handy, if you need to set the disc valve.

Cheers

Martin

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thanks for the reply - a little clarification if you can:-

 

> from motoswm.

 

not sure what this means

 

> Yes, you can run without the counterweight,

 

what do you mean as the counterweight - maybe this is obvious once I take the magneto side apart.

 

> Either hold the flywheel, to lock the crank and remove the counterweight (std right hand thread).

 

maybe this is part of my problem (I think the primary drive cogs are spinning free), but now the top of the clutch basket and the springs are removed, the clutch and the flywheel are no longer joined, so locking the flywheel would not appear to help me remove the clutch nut.

 

> Or you can lock the crank directly

 

likewise - I am trying to remove the clutch nut.

 

I need to lock the chain or sprocket somehow and I wondered if there was a technique. I tried dropped an allen key through the chain near the sprocket, but it looked like it would snap with a lot of effort applied.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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if you have (or can borrow)an impact wrench, you can remove a clutch centre nut simply by holding the centre with a gloved hand! other wise you need a holding tool like a plain clutch plate with a handle welded on (can be bought or home made)I have no experience of rotax engines so I am assuming the clutch is similar to most others

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I have on many occasions placed a penny in between the teeth of the primany drive gear and clutch gear. This will lock the two when you turn it. Not in any work shop manual but works a treat. The penny is soft so does not damage the teeth. An air gun is you best method.  

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ok - so the impact wrench spun it straight off :-)

 

However, now I think about it and look at the diagrams, I can't see how either of the 2 keys shown, end up in the gearbox oil. There is a key each side of the crank, one side is the magneto and therefore dry, and the other side is the combustion side, so no way from there though to the gearbox oil

 

I can't find any other key on the diagrams so I confused now.

 

I guess i'll take the side off now I have the clutch off and have a look see - or do I just try and run it and see what happens or doesn't work ?

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so I took the clutch side off and the key was present on the primary drive, so its a mystery. I can only think someone lost one during a rebuild at some timw.

 

anyhow, ran it up and it seems ok (as much as it will be without an airbox and rear part of the exhaust missing)

 

there is an issue however - see my new post.

 

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