Rev 3 06 250 Just Starting Out

[j_dooey]

Just got my first trials bike (beta) and Looking for some pointers . I.e spark plugs , air filters , oils ,tire pressures and anything else you guys can think of !

Thanks Jordan

[steve_earle]

Good bike the 06 rev3. 

 

Plug: BP6ES for U.K (BP7ES Standard)

 

Gear oil: I always use ATF but there's a big debate on gear oils, I suggest do a search.

 

2T oil: I use 80:1, Ipone, GRO, I don't like Putoline But again everyone has a debate on this so do another search on here otherwise this will end up going on forever.

 

Air filter wise they are all pretty much the same, It's good to have a spare clean one in your toolbox.

 

The air boxes get wet after jet washing too so stuff a plastic bag in there before washing.

 

Leaking fuel from the carb is normal.

 

 

[j_dooey]

Thanks Steve much appreciated as I mentioned just starting out so all info is helpful

[tonyp]

Hi, yes great choice, really bullet proof bikes.

 

Other tips.....

 

- Keep an eye on the oil window in the gearbox.....the inner clutch case used to corrode and let water through into the gearbox.....most problems have probably gone away now.....but just watch out in case the oil goes milky/cloudy.

 

- Try to avoid ever having to bleed the brakes, it's a nightmare, especially at the back.

 

- 9 PSI in the front, 4 in the back.

 

- I usually take the right hand side flywheel cover off after each outing/wash, just to dry it out, and hence avoid the risk of the stator getting damp/rusty.  It's only 3 studs.

 

- Don't worry if the clutch takes a while to free off when you first start it up, they all do that.

 

Enjoy !

 

[j_dooey]

Hi tonyp when I got the bike it had just had new seals and caseing do to this problem . It had been strode in a garage for six months after it had been changed so the oil was milky after running oil through the gear box it seems to have corrected this problem .

I know what you mean about the clutch I got caught out the first time on the bike but as you say it frees off after a heat up

[goudrons]

Beta's only like the higher octane fuels, what's sold as Super Unleaded, 99 or 100 octane.

On normal unleaded they tend to knock and bang a bit, particularly on the over run when they can produce a worrying "Bang" every now and then.

 

Run on synthetic oil at the ratio mentioned above.

 

There are "Stickies" at the top of the forum regarding clutch and carb.

I found the Mikuni a bit rough, a Dellorto VHST is a big improvement, though do need to be kept spotlessly clean or a Keihin off an '08 will work better.

(tip is to spin the carb to airbox rubber the other way around, makes getting the carb on and off easier)

 

The clutch does tend to stick, plenty of new owners have been through a hedge or rammed someone car unaware of it sticking, but you soon learn to free it off before hand, same for checking the throttle cable isn't jammed!

 

Gear oil is down to the individual, thinner oils and ATF tend to be grabby and gives a quick action so hard to ride smooth at first.

The thicker the gear oil, the draggier it becomes.

When starting out you don't really want either of the above.

Something like Putoline Nano Trans is a good place to start.

Also worth considering the engine warms up far quicker than the gearbox, clutch and gear oil, so and good ride around to warm everything up before you dive into sections is a good idea.

 

You can go to the Beta site and download the manuals and parts book.

The manual is worth checking for things like setting up master cylinder "play" properly.

 

Apart from normal maintenance, they do respond well to a silencer repack.

When the wadding starts to go they can sound a bit harsh, strip out the silencer, clean the holes in the pipe then loosely repack it, they should sound mellow with a bark at the top end.

 

Check the water pump impeller, they can look like a dog has chewed it after a bit of use.

 

Worth keeping a few spares when starting out.

Pick up some spare clutch and front brake levers (leave the master cylinder clamps loose-ish, so grip the bars but will also move if you drop it, can save a broken clamp)

 

Also, don't leave the brake pads to wear all the way down, this causes the pistons to come out too far so they twist and jam.

 

If you are anywhere muddy (UK), space the front mudguard up.

A couple of washers or you can buy some spacers (around 5mm) and longer M6 bolts to lift the mudguard higher, this saves the front wheel from clogging and jamming with mud.

 

[j_dooey]

Hi goudons just seeing your post thanks for the detailed reply il have a good look over the bike in the next few days and check out the things you have mentioned thanks !!!